The side wall of my transmission has come loose. I think it missing a bolt on the right side if you are looking at it from the front. My wife ran over something, and it bent it a little bit. I have some JB Weld and was going to fill the gap when I noticed that a bolt looked to be missing what I need is a diagram so that I can see what size bolt I need. It is a 1994 Honda Civic SI. It is a manual transmission

Front wheel drive, you have to look on the side of you transaxle transmission. I'm guessing sorry for the guess. Look to see where transmission bolts up to engine. Look about 2's back from there. You should see a sensor. It should be mounted with a hold down bracket and hex bolt. Remove bolt and remove unit out should have a pinion on the end. Remove the electrical connection replace with new. FYI. LOOK AT BOTH SIDES OF TRANSMISSION COULD BE ON LEFT OR RIGHT.

1. Remove the hub cap and bolt the wheel back in.
2. Punch out the spindle nut lock and loosen the spindle nut.
3. Raise and support the vehicle and block the rear tires.
4. Remove the wheel.
5. Drain the transmission.
6. Remove the all the damper fork nuts and all the brake hose nuts on the damper fork and on the shock absorber.
7. Remove the damper fork.
8. Remove the driver side and passenger side front suspension flange nut inside the engine bay and slide the upper arm out
9. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the passenger side and remove the passenger drive shaft spline from the hub.
10. Separate the inner driveshaft from the transmission with a large screw driver (or crow bar).
11. Remove the passenger side drive shaft. Do not pull.
12. Remove the front radius rod.

Under the car.

1. Remove the center beam.
2. Remove the torque converter cover, the control cable holder and remove shift control cable.
3. Remove the drive plate bolts and four transmission housing bolts.

Inside the engine bay.

1. Place a transmission jack or several small jacks under the transmission.
2. Disconnect all the electrical connectors.
3. Remove the speed sensor gear shaft but leave the hoses on.
4. Remove the distributor and mark the distributor shaft with a razor or a diamond etcher, usually on the head side or both.
5. Remove the throttle control lever cable.
6. Remove the transmission cooler hoses mounting bolts and their 4 washers.
7. Remove the starter.
8. Remove the all the transmission housing bolts.
9. If the transmission won't come out remove a horizontal side engine mounting bolt and raise oil pan (with a wooden block between the oil pan and jack) until the transmission clears.
10. Lower the transmission into the transmission jack.
11. With the driver side front suspension flange out of the way, turn the steering towards the right then remove the driver side inner drive shaft with a large flathead screw driver.
12. Lower the low profile transmission jack and slide the transmission and the jack from under the car. Don't loose the two dowel pins.
13. Block all transmission fluid ports from leakage and dust and dirt.
14. If repairs are being done repair the transmission in a dust, sand free environment.
    

If the tie rods are just loose,you replace the bolts

Obviously if the end joint or brg is worn & loose you replace
them. (not the entire arm,just the joint)

You can replace the bolt or the tie rods yourself,
then have the front aligned within a few days as the
toe will be off.

I assume your talking outer ties rod ends,
not inner --- inside the steering rack boots!!

The inner joint does require the complete, what
looks like a rod or arm to be replaced

Items you will need:
6 quarts of Dexron III or IV Automatic Transmission Fluid
Oil Drain Pan
2 Cans of Brake Cleaner
1 Roll of Paper Shop Towels
3/8 inch Ratchet Wrench
3/8 inch Ratchet Extender
10mm Ratchet Socket
9mm Ratchet Socket
9mm Open and Closed Wrench
Replacement Automatic Transmission Gasket
Replacement Automatic Transmission Filter
Rubber Mallet
Blade/Scrapper


Follows these Instructions, carefully:

1. Place the vehicle on a level area.
2. Jack up the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands. Make sure that you raise the vehicle to give you enough clearance to work. It also helps if you have a 'crawler' to lay on. Use of the 'crawler' makes it easier to move about while you are on your back.
3. The Automatic Transmission Pan is the large pan located directly under the transmission. Lay on the 'crawler' and look at the pan. Inspect it carefully. Use a rag and brake cleaner to clean the area around all the bolts that hold the pan in place. Any dirt that is around the bolts will make it difficult to attempt to remove the bolts. Also, inspect the pan for any gouges or cracks. This would be the best time to decide if you need to replace the entire pan, or not.
4. Get some cardboard. Draw a rough outline of the pan and show the placement of the bolts. Puncture the cardboard were you drew the bolts. This will be your reference point of where you took the bolts off. This will help you remember where they go. This is important, as you have two special bolts that you will need to deal with. The cardboard also helps you keep track of the bolts so they won't scatter anywhere.
5. On the back corner, driver-side, of the pan you will notice that there is a black bracket there. This bracket holds the gear select cable. There are two 9mm bolts that hold this bracket against the pan. Use the 9mm Socket to loosen the bolt that is in the corner, but do not remove it. Use the 9mm Wrench to loosen the bolt directly behind the cable. Loosen this one as far as you can. The head of the bolt will push against the cable. Loosen the other 9mm bolt, the one you used the Ratchet on, and loosen that bolt some more, but don't take it out, yet. The bracket should now lower, a bit, and this will give you more room to loosen the other 9mm bolt behind the cable. Once you know you have the bolt removed, then remove the other 9mm with the Ratchet. The bolt that is behind the cable, you will not be able to remove it, just leave it there. It won't fall out. Place the other 9mm bolt into the cardboard holder that you made earlier. Make sure you put it in the same spot in relation to the pan.
6. Use the 10mm Ratchet Socket, with the extender, and loosen all the bolts. Don't remove them, yet. The bolts may be loose, already. This is due to the vibrations that the transmission encounters because of use. If they are loose, great. This is normal. If they are tight, apply steady pressure to loosen them.
7. Once you have them all loose, then, starting on the front right, loosen the bolts in that area to the point that they are about ready to come out, but don't take them out. On the passenger side of the pan, loosen those bolts the same way and do the same to the front, toward the engine.
8. At this point, get your oil pan ready. Position it toward the front right. If the pan hasn't started to separate from the transmission, wait a bit. Start loosening the bolts on the driver side, but don't remove them.
9. Start to loosen the bolts that are located toward the rear, but don't remove them.

NOTICE: It is very important that you don't remove all the bolts at once. Here's why: There is more transmission fluid than you think there is. If you were to 'see' the fluid level it goes just above the gasket. This is why you need to loosen the bolts, but don't remove them, in the order I am describing to you. If you were to remove all the bolts at once, the fluid would spill from all four sides, and you don't have an oil pan big enough to cover that area. What you want to do is tilt the pan so that the fluid spills from one of the corners. The best corner to do this is the one toward the front passenger side.

10. Once you have the bolts loosened, the pan should just come loose. If not, use the Rubber Mallet to and give it a few good taps from both sides. The pan should come loose. Once it does, tilt it toward the direction of the oil pan and let it drain for a few minutes. After it has drained for a bit, start removing the bolts from the front right corner, and work your way back toward the back left corner, all the while keeping the pan at a tilt so that it drains into your oil pan.

11. When you can't drain the pan anymore, push it back towards the transmission, remove the rest of the bolts and then pull it out. Make sure you put the bolts into that cardboard that you made earlier.

12. Remove the transmission pan from under the vehicle, and move the oil pan under the exposed area of the transmission. At this point, you can remove the transmission filter. it is the thin flat black item that is hanging under the exposed area of the transmission. Pull it straight down and place it in the oil pan.

13. Take the transmission pan that you just removed and remove and gasket material from the edge. Use the brake cleaner and a rag. Clean off the old gasket. It should just come off in one piece. You just want to clean off the residual rubber off the gasket. You and use the scrapper, just don't make and deep gouges.

14. Under the vehicle, clean the edge of the transmission with a rag and brake fluid cleaner. Again, you can use a scrapper, just be careful to not create any gouges. Put the new Transmission Filter on.

15 Position the Automatic Transmission Gasket on top of the Transmission Pan. Make sure you have it aligned properly.

16. Place the Transmission pan back under the transmission and place the bolts from the cardboard back into the same spots that you removed them from. Hand tighten all the bolts that you can. The bolts in the rear of the pan you will have to use the 10mm Socket with the extender, but not the Ratchet Wrench, and put those bolts on.

17. Put the cable bracket back against the pan and put in the 9mm bolt but don't tighten it all the way down. Use the 9mm Wrench to put the bolt that is behind the cable. Get that bolt as far as you can, but don't tighten it. Work the other 9mm bolt with the Ratchet Wrench. Just get it snug, then work the other 9mm with the wrench, again just get it snug. With the 10mm start to tighten the other bolts. Don't go around the pan, but rather when you tighten one, tighten one on the opposite side. Keep doing this till each bolt is tightened. Then tighten the 9mm bolts.

18. Remove all items from under the vehicle.

19. Lower the vehicle.

20. Pour in the Automatic Transmission Fluid through the Transmission Dip Stick opening. Use a funnel.

21. Start the engine an drive it around for about 10 minutes.

22. Open the hood and check the Automatic Transmission Fluid. If it needs more, add more to the appropriate level.

Your done.

Time: 2 to 4 hours

There is a dog bone mount at each end of the engine. If it is on the bottom of the engine, something is totally out of whack. The bottom mount is under the transmission and does not look like a dog bone. I am assuming you must be writing the about passenger side, where the serpentine belt is. Remove the right front wheel, put the car on jack stand and remove the plastic service panel behind the wheel. The bolt hole where the dog bone bolt goes will be evident, or there will be a broken bolt. If the dog bones have not ever been changed this would be a time to do that and maybe the belt tensioner too. The other one is under the battery tray, both are fairly easy to replace, assuming you do not bust a bolt off.

automatic? remove the torque convertor bolts and remove the bolt on the back front side of the engine that goes into!! the tranny from the front and its a by**h to get to stick tranny has same bolts in same place

sounds like the transmission pan or the engine sump pan, the pipes are oil cooler connections. If a bolt is missing it may leak, if the leak is red its trans fluid, brown or black its oil from the engine.

Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair
Transmission Fluid and Oil Filter Changing
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lift Points.
2. Place drain pan under pan
3. Remove oil pan bolts from front and sides only.
4. Loosen the rear oil pan bolts approximately four turns.
5. Lightly tap the oil pan with a rubber mallet or pry to drain the fluid from main case.
6. Remove the oil pan bolts from rear oil pan and gasket.
7. Remove front oil pan bolts leaving one corner bolt in loosely.
8. Lightly tap oil pan with rubber mallet or pry to drain fluid.
9. Remove the following remaining components:
^ The front oil pan bolts
^ The oil pan
^ The gasket
10. Remove the oil filter bolts and filter.
11. Clean the following components:
^ The transmission case
^ The front adapter case
^ The oil pan gasket surfaces with solvent
^ Air dry
^ All traces of gasket material must be removed
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the gasket.
2. Install the oil filter.
3. Install the bolts.
^ Tighten the transmission oil filter bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
NOTICE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
4. Install the front oil pan.
5. Install the front oil pan gasket
6. Install the front oil pan bolts
^ Tighten the front oil pan bolts to 11 Nm (96 inch lbs.).
7. Install the following components:
^ Install the pan
^ Install the gasket
^ Install the bolts
^ Tighten the oil pan bolts to 11 Nm (96 inch lbs.).
8. Refill the transmission with DEXRON III through oil pan fill plug on the side of the (main case) oil pan. Fill the transmission to lower edge of oil
pan fill. Fill plug opening using and oil suction gun.
^ Tighten the oil pan fill plug to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.).
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Check the transmission fluid level. Refer to Transmission Fluid Checking Procedure.

I am assuming that you can't get the transmission loose from the engine if you have evrything removed and disconnected including the sub frame. If this is the case you are missing a bell housing bolt. Look on the back side of the engine, there should be a bolt that threads in from the engine side into the bell housing, it is very hard to see but if you look through the right side fender well you should be able to find it. Thanks and good luck with your repair.