Put new alternator on getting fire to charge light when switch is on bulb is good but want come on fuses good new battery buy want put fire back in battery when running

To begin with, I should tell you checking the alternator by disconnecting the cable can fry the alternator and the engine computer. Unlike a generator, the alternator must have the battery in circuit to function.
If you check the output with a meter and find the alternator is not charging the battery, check to see if the alternator is getting power from the key switch and that the batt light is staying on when the engine is running.

If there is other equipment in the car such as a high power amplifier or audio system, disconnect and see if it charges. Also check voltage on battery when you think you are at full charge. You may have a damaged cell inside the battery. Voltage should be around 12.8 to 13V dc.

Does the battery light work when you switch the ignition on? This provides a live feed to the alternator via the ignition bulb, the rotor needs a live feed to start the charge process, if the bulb has blown it won't charge (thin wire connected to the IND on the alternator). To check for a power drain, disconnect the negative battery lead put a AMP meter in series, (DON'T TRY TO START, YOU WILL BLOW THE METER). If you get a reading above 0.05amps (clock) you have a drain, pull the fuses one at a time and watch for a drop in the meter reading. Hope this helps.

It's best to relate symptoms to narrow things down. I assume you are still getting a dead battery when trying to start even after replacing the alternator and battery.
Get a volt meter. Harbor freight sells them ridiculously cheap (about $5). Measure the voltage at the battery terminals when the engine is running. If it is at least 13.5 volts to 15 volts then the alternator is charging correctly. If it is 12 volts then the alternator is not charging the battery.

If the alternator checks out ok, then check for things that could be draining the battery when the car is off. Usual suspect is the trunk light. Put your cell phone on video record into the trunk facing the light, then shut the trunk. If the light stays on, its because the switch in the latch mechanism is faulty. WD40 might make it work, or just pull the bulb. Also, check the glove box light the same way. Good luck...Chris

Maybe it wasn't running long enough to charge up the battery?
Stop trying to jump it, when you are having problems with it dying, take the battery off and have it charged. And/or buy a $20 voltmeter to see what the battery shows. If it says less than 12 volts, it is discharged, and needs charging. A good battery that is not run down should have at least 12.5 volts. A new battery that is charged should have very close to 13 volts, maybe 12.8 volts.
When you have the truck running, check the alternator for charging. You put the voltmeter right on the battery and check it again. This time, with truck running, battery should show at least 13.5 volts. That shows the alternator is working. A good alternator will put out about 13 or 14 volts-the regulator will keep it from going any higher to prevent problems, like a melting battery or electrical parts burning out.
I would say get the charging system working right, then address the problem of dying at stop lights. That could be a carburetor problem, if the alternator is working.

If both the alternator and the battery are good, either the alternator isn't turning fast enough (slipping belt or engine idle speed too slow), or you have a wiring problem.

To check your wiring, look for the "1" terminal on the back of the alternator (left side of spade terminal connector). When you turn the ignition key to the run position without starting the engine, the alternator warning light should be at full brightness. If the bulb is burned out, the alternator will not get the excitation current it needs to start up (it goes through the bulb). With the engine running, you should measure 12 Volts at the 1 terminal (this is the excitation terminal).

Another thing to check is whether the battery charge wire is good. If it is corroded inside at the battery clamp end or burned out, you won't get charging even though the alternator appears to be working. If you don't have an ohmmeter, you can make a quick test by adding a new 8 AWG wire between the output terminal and the battery clamp. If the battery now charges, the original wire is bad. If this works, I recommend installing an inline fuse at the alternator end no larger than the largest size used in your electrical system, just in case something happens to the jumper wire. That way you won't burn out your alternator.

The heater/AC issue could very likely be a separate problem, but inadequate power may keep that system from running properly. (Note: low idle speed or belt problems will also be detrimental to AC performance.)

BATTERY DRAINS ARE TRICKY. TURN OFF ALL SWITCHES, CLOSE GLOVE BOX. MAKE SURE GLOVE BOX LIGHT IS OUT. OPEN THE HOOD. DISABLE THE UNDER HOOD LIGHT. CLOSE ALL THE DOORS. MAKE SURE ALL COURTESY LIGHTS ARE OUT. DISCONNECT NEG. BATTERY CABLE. USE 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT, CONNECT ONE END TO A METAL PIECE ON THE MOTOR FOR GROUND. FASTEN THE OTHER END TO THE NEGATIVE BATTERY POST. IF THE LIGHT IS ON, THAT MEANS THERE IS A BATTERY DRAIN. LIGHT NOT ON, NO DRAIN. IF THE LIGHT IS ON, FIND THE POWER BOX NEAR THE BATTERY. PULL OUT ONE FUSE, IF THE LIGHT STAYS ON PUT HE FUSE BACK, PULL OUT THE NEXT FUSE. IF THE LIGHT STAYS ON PUT THE FUSE BACK . REPEAT THIS UNTIL THE LIGHT GOES OUT, OR GETS VERY DIM. OUT IS BETTER. WHEN THE LIGHT GOES OUT, THAT IS THE CIRCUIT THAT IS DRAINING THE BATTERY. REFER TO OWNERS MANUAL TO IDENTIFY THE CIRCUIT. IF THE LIGHT NEVER GOES OUT, REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ALTERNATOR. IF THE LIGHT GOES OUT, ALTERNATOR NEEDS REPLACING.

Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

there is a chance that the battry is faulty but there is also a chance that the alternator is drawing voltage back out of the battry when its not charging, this would be because the diods that stop the voltage flowing back have broken down. to see if this is the problem charge the battry,refit, but put a bulb in line on the possitive teminal if its glowing bright the alternator is drawing back try disconecting the altenator and testing it again if the bulb stops glowing you know its the altenator, dont forget the interior light will make it glow too. its also worth checking the earth straps.

Regards JR

ok the problem consists of your battery..........you have to have a full charge on the battery when you put a new alternator on or you burn out the regulator inside the alternator.....hope this helps!