Trying to remove rear rotor. removed spring clip and rotor is loose , but acts as if some unseen is holding it on. want to chek e-brake pads

Hi. Please see procedure below:

Remove the old Brake Pads

1 Park your car on a level surface. If you have a stick shift car make sure the car is in gear. Place blocks in front of the front tires so the car does not move while you are working on it.

2 Open the hood of your car and locate the master cylinder. If necessary, remove brake fluid until the level in the container is less than half full. A turkey baster is a good tool for this. Put the brake fluid in the plastic container and dispose of it the way you dispose of motor oil.

3 Raise the rear end of your car with your car jack. Remove the rear tire or wheel assembly.

4 Remove the parking brake cable from the back of the caliper. Use the pliers to remove the cable clip (restraining clip). This step is done only for Grand Prix RPO Z7Us.

5 Hand-tighten two lug nuts to the studs to hold the disc rotor in place while you work on the caliper. Remove the bolt and washer holding the cable support bracket to the caliper. The cable support has the parking brake cable and brake hose attached to it. This step is not done for Grand Prix RPO Z7Us.

6 Use the socket wrench to remove the caliper guide pin bolts. Slide the caliper off of the disc rotor and hang it in the wheel well with a small bungee cord or wire hanger; Don't let the caliper hang from the brake hose.

7 Remove the brake pads and shims from the caliper. Throw away the shims.

Install the new Brake Pads

1 Use the spanner tool to rotate the piston clockwise all the way into the caliper. Make sure the notches on the piston are at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions. There is a boot (rubber seal) around the piston bore. Lift the seal's inner edge and press out any trapped air. Insert the brake pad clips into the caliper support.

2 Apply a thin coat of lubricant to the parts of the inner pad that come in contact with the caliper piston and mounting areas. As you install the brake pads in the caliper support, make sure the wear sensors are downward and at the leading edge of the rotor when the tire rotates. Push the brake pads into the support, holding the metal shoe edge against the spring end of the pad clips. This slightly bends the spring ends and lets the notches engage with the support. This step does not apply for the Grand Prix RPO Z7U.

3 Swing the caliper back into place over the brake pads and replace the mounting bolt. Reconnect the cable support bracket and tighten the bolt to 32-ft.lb. (43 Nm). Remove the lug nuts holding the rotor in place. For the Grand Prix RPO Z7U, Slide the caliper back into place on the disc rotor. Reconnect the parking brake cable. Insert and tighten the caliper mounting bolts to 44 foot lb. (60 Nm).

4 Replace the tire wheel assembly. Lower the car to the ground.

5 Pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the brake pads. Do this before trying to move your car.

6 Add fluid to the master cylinder container to replace any you removed before you removed the old brake pads.

7 Season the brake pads by making only gentle stops when you are driving for the first week

Thanks!

Brake Drums & Brake Shoes Removal & Installation To Remove:
Rear Drum Brakes

1. Raise and safely support rear of vehicle.
2. Release parking brake.
3. Remove rear wheel assemblies. NOTE: If brake drum is stuck, install two 8 mm bolts into threaded holes and tighten evenly.
   
4. Remove top return spring, front and rear shoe spring clips and hold-down pins.
5. Remove anti-rattle spring and adjuster spring. NOTE: Note position of operating lever prior to removal.
   
6. Remove bottom return spring.
7. Remove clip and washer and detach parking brake cable from rear shoe.
8. Remove brake shoes.

To Install:

1. Lubricate all brake shoe contact points with appropriate grease.
2. Place operating level into position on hub.
3. Install rear brake shoe and connect parking brake cable to rear shoe with washer and clip.
4. Install front brake shoe and install bottom return spring.
5. Install hold-down pins and spring clips.
6. Position operating lever and install top return spring.
7. Install anti-rattle spring and adjuster spring.
8. Install brake drum and screws.
9. Adjust brakes and install rear wheel assemblies.

Those are special calipers. The piston cannot be just compressed back into the caliper - it needs to be turned as it is compressed or you can ruin the caliper.There is a kit you can rent from AutoZone or many independent auto parts stores that will perform both functions at the same time.
Block fron wheels and raise vehicle passenger side. Remove wheel. The caliper is on the top rear side of the assembly you're looking at.There are 2 long bolts you'll need to remove to take the caliper off the vehicle. Don't remove the brake line or open the bleeder screw ( either of these moves will add to your work!! ) Insert a large flat blade screwdriver in between the rotor and outboard brake pad and pry away from the vehicle slightly to release the pads from the rotor. Slide caliper upwards and towards the back of the vehicle to separate from rotor. The pads will come in a full set ( all 4 pads for both side of the rear ) . Look at your replacement pads and determine if they have a retainer clip holding them in place or a compression clip. Remove outboard pad first then inboard. Match old pads to replacement pads. Inspect rotor for grooves and irregular surfaces - if any grooves or irregularity present, remove rotor and take to an auto parts store for refinishing.Compress caliper piston with kit and allow 5 minutes for pressure to bleed back into the master cylinder.install rotor if removed and wipe surfaces with brake clean. Install inboard then outboard pad and place caliper on rotor, then mount to vehicle. Install wheel, repeat procedure for drivers side, then PUMP BRAKE PEDAL 5 TIMES BEFORE TRYING TO DRIVE VEHICLE to set pads on rotors.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands. Remove the wheel(s) on the side to be worked on.
   

NOTE: Removing a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder using a turkey baster

Fig. 4: Tighten the C-clamp until the piston reaches the bottom of its bore

Fig. 5: Remove the caliper mounting bolts

Fig. 6: Slide the caliper off the brake rotor

1. Drain a small amount of the brake fluid from the front reservoir using a suction gun or a turkey baster.
2. Place a C-clamp on the caliper so that the solid end contacts the back of the caliper and the screw end contacts the metal part of the outboard brake pad.
3. Tighten the clamp until the caliper moves far enough to force the piston to the bottom of the piston bore. This will back the brake pads off of the rotor surface to facilitate the removal and installation of the caliper assembly

Fig. 7: Support the caliper so that no tension is placed on the brake hose

Fig. 8: Hold the anti-rattle clip while removing the outboard pad (4)

Fig. 9: Removing the outboard brake pad

Fig. 10: Remove the inboard pad and anti-rattle clip

Fig. 11: Removing the inboard brake pad

Fig. 12: Removing the anti-rattle clip

1. Remove the C-clamp.
   

Do not push down on the brake pedal or the piston and brake pads will return to their original positions up against the rotor.

1. Remove the caliper mounting bolts. Tilt the top of the caliper outward and lift it off the rotor.
2. Hold the anti-rattle clip against the caliper anchor plate and remove the outboard brake pad.
3. Remove the inboard pad and the anti-rattle clip. Be sure that the support spring is removed with the inboard pad.

Fig. 13: Install the support spring onto the shoe of the inboard brake pad

Fig. 14: Installing the inboard pad

Fig. 15: Piston extension on new and worn brake pads

1. Use a piece of wire to support the caliper so that no tension is placed on the brake hose. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose.
   

To install:

1. Clean all the mounting holes and bushing grooves in the caliper ears. Clean the mounting bolts. Replace the bolts if they are corroded or if the threads are damaged. Wipe the inside of the caliper clean, including the exterior of the dust boot. Inspect the dust boot for cuts or cracks and for proper seating in the piston bore. If evidence of fluid leakage is noted, the caliper should be rebuilt.
   

Do not use abrasives on the bolts in order not to destroy their protective plating. You should not use compressed air to clean the inside of the caliper, as it may unseat the dust boot seal.

1. If not already in place, attach the support spring to the inboard brake pad.
2. Install the anti-rattle clip on the trailing end of the inboard pad's anchor plate. The split end of the clip must face away from the rotor.
3. Install the inboard pad in the caliper. The pad must lay flat against the piston.
4. Install the outboard pad in the caliper while holding the anti-rattle clip.
5. With the pads installed, position the caliper over the rotor.

Before securing the caliper, ensure the brake hose is not twisted, kinked or touching any chassis parts.

1. Lubricate the caliper pins and bushings with silicone grease. Line up the mounting holes in the caliper and the support bracket and insert the mounting bolts. Make sure that the bolts pass under the retaining ears on the inboard shoes. Push the bolts through until they engage the holes of the outboard pad and caliper ears. Thread the bolts into the support bracket and tighten them to 7-15 ft. lbs. (9-20 Nm).

CAUTION On models with manual/power brakes, pump the pedal until the caliper pistons and brake shoes are seated. On models with anti-lock brakes, turn the ignition ON and allow the booster pump to build pressure. Pump the brake pedal until the shoes are seated and the indicator lights turn off.

1. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and pump the brake pedal to seat the pads.
2. Install the wheel assembly and lower the vehicle. Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder and fill as necessary.

Remember to rate this, good luck.

How to replace the rear brake pads on a 1995 through 2001 Ford Explorer The system utilizes a drum-in-hat type rear brake rotor. The integral drum allows the use of a drum-and-shoe type parking brake system. All other components are similar to their front disc brake components Remove the two bolts on either side of the brake hose with the rubber boots. Do not remove the four bolts where the axle ties in. The two bolts to be removed require a 10mm socket/wrench. Loosen the pads from the caliper Rotor Removal In order to take the rotors off (replace with new or have them machined), it is best to loosen the emergency brake shoes. To do this, behind the rotors, in the back there is a rubber plug, remove that and you can use a screw driver to engage the teeth of the adjusting screw, turn it clockwise to loosen, usually 10-20 teeth. Usually this means turn it downward. After this, it may still be difficult to get the rotors off without tapping them. Use a rubber mallet and hit them from behind. Before really whacking the rotor, make sure you have loosened the adjusting screw enough. It may take heavy swings of the rubber hammer to do this. It will eventually break loose. Parking Brake You might want to check the parking brake while you are here. To remove:

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Remove the outboard return spring.

• Remove the adjusting screw spring.

• Remove the rear brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove the brake shoe adjusting screw and nut.

• Remove the front brake shoe hold-down spring and pin.

• Remove both parking brake shoes and the inboard return spring.

• Check the parking brake lever for excessive wear and replace as necessary.

To install:

• Position the front parking brake shoe to the backing plate and install the hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the rear parking brake shoe with the inboard return spring.

• Position the brake shoe adjuster screw and nut on the shoes and install the rear shoe hold-down pin and spring.

• Install the brake shoe adjuster spring.

• Install the outboard return spring.

• Adjust the parking brake shoes and install the rotor, caliper and wheel.

• Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).

ADJUSTMENT

• Measure the inside of the drum portion of the rear brake rotor

• Remove the rear disc brake rotor.

• Using Brake Adjustment Gauge D81L-1103-A or equivalent, measure the inside diameter of the drum portion of the rear disc brake rotor.

• Subtract 0.020 in. (0.508mm) from the first measurement, adjust the brake shoes to that size

• Adjust the parking brake adjuster screw until the outside diameter of the parking brake shoes measures 0.020 in. (0.508mm) less than the drum measurement.

• Install the rear disc brake rotor.

Reassembly Reassembly is easy. Put new or machined rotors back on by sliding them over the lugs (they should slide on easily.) Loosen bleeder valve (having a catch bottle handy is good). Push calipers in slowly (using a c-clamp or large channel lock pliers), close bleeder valve. Put on pads. Lubricate metal clips with small amount of anti-seize. Re-adjust the emergency brake by turning the opposite direction from loosening. Refill the brake master cylinder

for front pads jack and support car remove wheels remove bolts holding calliper [2]remove spring clip pull calliper off remove pads clean housing fit outer pad slowley push calliper piston in using large grips fit inner pad to piston refitcalliper fit bolts refit spring clip can be awkward pump brake pedal until firm check fluid level rear ones are the same but special tool needed to wind calliper pistons back in note make sure brake discs are in good condition first

Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the rear wheel hub and bearing with a socket wrench. Back the parking brake shoes away from the rotor using the adjuster star wheel. Remove the parking brake shoe adjuster spring and the shoe adjuster with a socket wrenchDisconnect the hold-down clip and pin for the upper brake shoe so you can remove the upper shoe from the actuator lever with a socket wrenchRemove the return spring from the lower brake shoe and disconnect the shoe actuator lever from the end of the parking brake cable. Detach the hold-down clip and pin from the lower brake shoe and remove the lower brake shoe with a socket wrench.

Start by jacking the car up, place on jack stands for safwety, You will see the brake calaper which holds in the shoes, you will see two bolts which holds the brakes together, remove these bolts, then remove the pads. Remopve the bolt and pen holding the rotor on, take the rotor to a brake shop, see if it can be turned instead of having to purchase a new one. When replacing the brake pads you will have to use one of the pads to push the pressure plate back into the calaper to replace the pads. You may want to remove some of the brake fluid so it wont over flow when doing this.

Well, you will have to wiggle and pry the rotor until it comes off. I just did this on a 2003 mountaineer and it was a bear. At least one side was very hard. It turned out the rotor inside was so bad that the shoes could not get past a lip on the outer edge of the parking brake effective surface. I had to pry and hit until it came off. Once removed I noticed that the shoes were shot, I mean, the braking material was completely gone. This is where the fun began. Removed the springs and removed the hold down clips. The hold down clips were stretched and were not effective by the way. Removing the shoes was not too bad. Installing the new ones is difficult as the wheel hub is in the way. Carefully install the springs and adjuster. Once you get past that then you have to deal with the hold down clips. It happens that the top pin where the clips attaches to is fairly accessible from behind so you can support it while you install the hold down clip. Again, it is doable but very difficult as the hub is in the way and the room is barely enough. Once you do the upper, the bottom one is the bear, the hole to access the pin from behind happens to be underneath the CV joint and it is not easily visible. I had the worst time installing this clip. If you do not then the shoes will rub against the rotor. Not good. Anyways, it is not easy, I do not know what they were thinking with this system. Removing the nut in the center will only allow you to remove the cv joint, you will have to deal with the wheel bearing if you want to remove the hub. Good luck, and I hope this helped.

Just remove the rear rotors, bull the straight off, after removing the caliper bracket. It would be a good idea to spray the small brake shoes with brake cleaner. No need to remove anything other than the rotor.