What size of spline set do i need to remove drive shaft from 99 passat

yes actually 95 to 05 1995-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier CV Axle Assembly, Chevrolet Cavalier Drive Axles, API CV Axle Assembly, API Drive Axles SKU: API 1700197008, API 3158-07726494 CV Axle Assembly -- Pass. Side Axle Has Stub Shaft Inserted Into The Splines Of The Inboard Joint; If stub shaft stays on axle upon removal you must transfer to the replacement unit. Driveshaft & Axle Automatic, Automatic 4 Spd 95-05 Chevrolet CV Axle Assembly. Replacement Chevy CV Axle Assembly Parts. 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05

QU40221 19 Spline Outer Axle Shaft for 1977 to 1991 Chevy, GMC Corporate GM 10 Bolt Front Axle is a genuine original equipment outer axle stub shaft for all GM 10 Bolt front axles in 1977 to 1991 Chevy Blazers, GMC Jimmys, and Suburbans, plus Chevy, GMC 4x4 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Pickups. The splined end on these new axle shafts has three snap ring grooves in three places so they are compatible with all types of automatic and manual lockout hubs plus all full-time solid splined drive gears.

Also available while supplies last: QU40221U Used Outer Axle Shaft with 3 snap ring grooves and QU40660UUsed Inner Axle Shafts with 2 snap ring grooves (QU40660U is not compatible with automatic locking hubs)



see this vdio

This is not easy....You will need air tools ,spray penetrate,seal remover,hammer,and Jack stands..Seal installation tool,.All proper tools..safety glasses.correct seal replacement.,new lock nut...Set park brake,block rear wheels,raise vehicle front and safely place jack stands under each side of lower control arms..Spray lube front drive shaft mounting hardware and lock nut that holds Yoke on front diff..Let it set to penetrate..put vehicle in neutral..Mark shaft to yoke location and direction perfectly because it has to be installed in perfect timing exactly how it was removed..,Remove drive shaft..Remove lock nut and yoke from front diff...You will have to hold yoke while removing lock nut because it will spin..PROTECT HANDS..( These can be VERY DIFFICULT to remove..Sometimes they have to be heated..You will need a yoke removal tool if it doesn't tap off with hammer...Mark exactly the yoke to spline location before removal..You can take close up photos however Mark it also to be sure...If you re-install it wrong it will vibrate terribly..Once yoke is removed You can remove seal.Make sure the new seal is correct...CAREFULLY..DO NOT DAMAGE SPLINES WHILE REMOVING..Sometimes even the perfect seal remover will damage splines..So cover it to protect spline threads..Clean all areas once seal is removed..Make sure nothing is pitted or damaged...Install new seal with installation tool..Lightly,perfectly tap it flush with diff..You can use old seal to install new seal if you don't have installation tool But only a pro should do that...Once in place Line drive shaft yoke with your marks and tap it on ..Use NEW LOCKNUT AND TORQUE IT TO SPEC..Install drive shaft as marked..torque to spec..Lower truck and check fluid..Complete..

Yes, the same size and length of drive shaft at the left and right for 2003 VW Passat 1.8T automatic.

A continental is a front wheel drive car since 89. You must mean a town car. The pinion shaft seal is tricky because of a bearing preload issue that can be catastrofic if you get it wrong. I would recomend seeking the skills of a pro.

you will need a flexible drive attachment for your socket set.....

i assume you removed the nut that holds the spline shaft on the hub? try wd40 and put the nut back on a few turns and beat it with a hammer

use a 16 point 12mm socket that should work.

i can only guess it is a 3.0l 4v well as far as the axle goes, the rh outer half shaft seperates at the splines on the intermediate shaft.
the intermediate shaft is the solid shaft from the trans to a bearing support bracket and ends after that. it is externally splined.
the rh axleshaft , inner cv joint, is internally splined.
to remove the rh axleshaft, remove the rh wheel and splash shield.
removed the lower balljoint pichbolt and seperate the lower balljoint front the steering knuckle. take the axle nut off and using a large brass drift or hardwood, drive the axle out of the bearing-hub assembly. DO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS. also use some lubricant on the axle nut dissasembly. after the outer axle end is free, using the same brass drift or other, hit the inner cv joint and drive it off the intermediate shaft. inspect the splines closely because these fail and cause a no-drive condition.
then the mounint bolts for the support bearing and pull the intermedate shaft out, you will loose some fluid.

Yes you must remove the arms, to do so, just use a standard screw driver to remove the caps covering the arm securing nuts on the arm drive shaft. The arms are secured on the shaft by splines and you should mark the arms in order to replace them in the exact position they are removed on drive spline. Lift the arms all the way up to avoid the spring tension when removing from the spline. Then you will need to remove the other panels that cover the motor and arm power shafts etc. Hint... disconnect as little as possible to accomplish the swap.