Check engine light went on for 2 days then went off
Dealer said that my inner thermometer controlling the engine temperature is what caused the light to come on, that needs to be replaced for $380, and the struts that hold it in for another $300. The temp indicator has never moved beyond the mid poitn. Something seems off. Is this legit?
Re: Check engine light went on for 2 days then went off
That doesn't make sense at all. I could see it maybe being a thermostat problem, which is what turns on and off the flow of coolant that cools the engine, but I am not sure what they are talking about when they say struts. That makes no sense. Struts are generally part of your suspension, what most people call shocks. If it is the thermostat those are pretty easy to change and I would guess it would only run $30-$80 depending on the car. You could always take it in to your local auto parts store. They can run free diagnostics to see what code came up when the check engine light came on. If your temp indicator has never gone beyond half then the thermostat is likely working, but sometimes the computer can give you some forewarning that it's life is almost up.
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There can be 2 heat sensors in a car. One operates the dash gauge and the other operates the electric radiator fans. Not sure what type of warning you are talking about for the cooling system; was it a Code number or light? The person working on it should use a thermometer or Laser instrument and verify the water temperature. It would be good to do this because you are getting 2 opposite readouts and the Laser or thermometer would show if one is wrong.
Now the 4.6 engine has an intake manifold which can develop water leaks on the passengers front top intake runner. It is slowing becoming a defect which can become a Recall if enough complaints are made. You might try to research water leaks on a 4.6 L engine and print this for the Dealer.
Dealers are like people. They have different experiences although much of the training can be the same. Another Dealer may be better at finding this one defect and not good at finding another. You do have money invested at the current place. You might suggest the Laser thermometer and the fact that stalling can be from a loss of feedback from a water sensor since engine controls are set based on engine temperature.
Diagnostic Test Code (DTC) P0128 has a generic description of "Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature".
The Poertrain Control Module (PCM) checks the coolant temperature at startup. It then calculates the period of time that it should take for the engine to reach operating temperature (or thermostat regulated temperature). After the calculated period of time, the PCM again checks the coolant temperature. If it has not reached operating temperature, a code P0128 flag is set in mode 6.
If the engine still has not reached operating temperature after 5 more minutes of continuous engine operation, code P0128 is set in continuous memory and the Check Engine (or Malfunction Indicator Light "MIL" is turned on.
> A stuck-open engine coolant thermostat (MOST common) > A skewed Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) or Cylinder Head Temperature(CHT) sensor (working, but not reading correct temperature) > Low engine coolant level (causing the sensor to not read correctly)
First, the engine coolant (antifreeze) level should be checked. If it is low, it is recommended to perform a cooling system pressure test to find out WHY.
Then, the actual engine temperature should be measured with an infrared thermometer near the ECT or CHT. The reading from the thermometer should be checked against the live sensor data with a scan tool. (PLease note that MOST generic OBD code readers CANNOT perform this function.)
If the reading from the thermometer and the sensor data is within 10 degrees F of each other, replace the thermostat. Otherwise, the sensor circuit should be checked for high resistance (loose or corroded connector, damagd wire, etc.). If no high resistance is measured in the rest of the circuit, the sensor should be replaced.
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P01281 has a generic description of "Engine Coolant Temperature Cold Too Long".
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) collects data from the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor at engine startup. After more than 3 minutes of engine operation and less than 1 hour of engine operation, it will again monitor the ECT data. DTC P01281 sets when the ECT data does not indicate sufficient engine warm-up during this time.
The possible causes are:
> Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor > ECT circuit malfunction > Engine coolant thermostat stuck open
If you are also not getting much heat from your heater lately, the problem is MOST LIKELY the thermostat.
Otherwise, ECT operation should be verified using a scanner that can read live data from the ECT at the PCM and comparing this reading with the actual engine temperature as it is measured near the ECT sensor with an infrared thermometer. If the thermometer does not agree with the ECT data, then the ECT sensor and circuit must be diagnosed to find the cause. If the thermometer DOES agree with the ECT data, then replace the thermostat.
If it is top left of the control panel and has a little thermometer in the middle of it, then its the transmission oil temperature light.
"In some markets, this bulb will temporarily illuminate to indicate the bulb is working when the ignition key is moved to position 2".
Generally, if its on for less than a couple of seconds - all is fine. If it stays on whilst driving then your transmission oil is too hot (hot weather, handbrake left on, punishing the engine etc ....).
If it comes on, check the oil temperature guage, and slow down. If it remains on, stop the vehicle and do not continue until it has extinguished.
Always try to get to the root cause of this fault, as it may be something more serious, such as loss of coolant (leading to engine seizure). Never check the coolant level on a hot engine - serious risk of burns injury.
Why my Check Engine/Service Engines Soon light comes on? The engine computer or PCM/ECM All modern vehicles have a computer or the ECM (Electronic Control Module) that controls the operation of the vehicle powertrain (the engine and transmission). The main purpose of this is to keep the engine running at top efficiency with the lowest possible emissions. With constantly growing demands for better fuel economy and new strictest emission regulations it's not very easy to achieve. The engine parameters need to be constantly and precisely adjusted according to various conditions such as speed, load, engine temperature, gasoline quality, ambient air temperature, road conditions, etc. That's why today's cars have much more electronics than in early days - there is a large number of various sensors and other electronic devices that help the vehicle computer or ECM to precisely control the engine and transmission operation and monitor emissions. The vehicle computer system has self-testing capability. When the computer senses that there is a problem with some of the components it stores the correspondent trouble code(s) in its memory and lights up the "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" light to tell you that there is a problem and your car needs to be looked at. To properly diagnose what is wrong, you need to take your car to a mechanic or a dealer. The technician at the dealership or a garage will then hook up the scanner to the car computer and retrieve the stored trouble code(s). Then he (she) will look it up in the service manual provided by a car manufacturer. The service manual contains the list of possible codes (about few hundreds) and describes what each code means and what needs to be tested. The code itself doesn't tell exactly what component is defective - it only indicates where to look, what engine parameter is out of normal range. The technician will have to perform further testing to pinpoint a defective part.
I would check the ABS sensors on both sides.
Those are wires that fit on all wheels to give signal to the ECU for proper functioning of the car.
They might just put back the old ones for you . and they should have ben replaces
Please be advise that if you drive this and the check engine light is flash on and off. you should not drive it any more till you find the problem because you can cause more damage to the truck if the light is flash. there are many things that could cause this running condition: TPS, EGR, Bad injector, Idle air control and more would need to know codes that are in the computer, engine size 2 or 4 wheel drive, does it have A/C, Cruise, traction control, ABS brakes, then I maybe able to help you