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Do you know anything about automotive electrical circuit testing ? Using voltage drop testing to find which part of the circuit has the problem , Voltage or ground side ? There is no common problem with both of these systems. After looking at a wiring diagram ,they have different grounds an B+ voltage supply's .
The STOP fuse in the engine wiring harness junction block supplies battery positive voltage to the normally open stop lamp switch. When the driver presses the brake pedal, the switch contacts close and battery positive voltage is supplied to both the VEHICLE STOP fuse and the VEHICLE CHMSL fuse. The current flow is now to the stop lamps which are grounded at G401 and G402. The center high mounted stop lamp (CHMSL) is grounded at G401.
For trailer wiring, a separate stop lamp circuit is connected through the GMSF to the trailer wiring harness.
The headlamp driver module (HDM) is an electronic module that provides electrical power to the vehicle low beam headlamps. The HDM is controlled by a pulse width modulated (PWM) ground signal from the body control module (BCM). The BCM determines the desired lamp intensity using the ambient light sensor, multifunction switch and the park brake switch as inputs. In general, the HDM will operate in 1 of 3 modes:
• Reduced Intensity Mode: This mode is used by features that do not require or allow maximum low beam headlamp intensity such as daytime running lights (DRL) (nominal: 85% duty cycle).
• Full Intensity Mode: This mode is used by features that require full low beam headlamp intensity such as low beam headlamp operation in manual or auto modes (nominal: 100% duty cycle).
• Off Mode: This is the default mode of the system that will occur when none of the features described above are active. The BCM will deactivate its PWM output (0% duty cycle) during this mode.
When the BCM receives a ground signal from the headlamp switch requesting the low beam headlamps, the BCM will energize the HDM low beam relay by grounding the low beam relay control circuit.
For the brake light problem ,without testing , i would say there is a ground problem . Voltage drop testing the circuit would show what is wrong.
Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? You need to look at one to see which wires to test . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year,make , model ,engine ! Under system click on lighting ,under subsystem click on exterior lighting . Click the search button ,then the blue links ! The fourth one down is the brake lights . You see the fuse's for the brake lights in the rear fuse box ? Do you know where that is located ? Fuse Block - Rear
Beneath the left rear seat.
Know as for your headlamps , probably the headlamp driver module is bad ! The headlamp switch is a input to the BCM - body control module . Hooking up a factory scan tool to view DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes , an view input data to the BCM . To see if it is getting the signal to turn on the headlamps an see if it send PWM signal to the HDM .
Your best bet ,take it to the dealer .
12 volt test light or amp gauge. Trailer brakes use 2 wires... 1 ground and 1 hot. The hot has varied amps to apply according to the controller. 12 volt test light works great. use the white (typical) as your ground and the blue (typical) as your hot. Apply brakes. Light should get brighter as the controller is turned up and dimmer as it is turned down. I hope this helps.
you are going to have to get under it and start looking for ripped wires or damaged wires. also check around your trailer hook ups. dont know what type of ditch you hit or how you went in or how it was pulled out. if you went through some sapling trees or brush you could have torn up wires. if you blew a fuse then you had to short out wires. if tail went in first then trailer connector is a good place to start.
It sounds like you blew a fuse(s) or have a short somewhere. Check your fuse box and replace as needed. Test your windows and radio. If problem still persists, check for other electrical problems. Wire insulation could be worn and grounding, inspect wires as you are able to. Beyond this, you might need to seek a mechanic who specializes in electrical problems. Hopefully, this will help to FixYa problem!
Check fuse #6 20amp on your interior fuse panel it may be blown. The relays are located in an auxillary relay box located under the hood on the drivers side fender near the firewall. The system uses 2 relays. One relay turns on for left turn signal, other relay turns on for right signal. Both relays turn on for brake lamps. The fuse #6 is more likely the problem. If the fuse is blown, replace it, wiggle the wiring on the trailer while someone steps on brakes to check for shorts.
Do you mean nothing works or just the power lead? If nothing works I would check the ground. If just the power lead doesn't work on the I know on the older superdutys the large fuses had to be installed in the fuse box under the hood to make it work. They were usually in the bag with the trailer brake controller wiring and had directions on where they went. Hope it helps
In the fuse box under the hood, fuse in position 20 is a 7.5amp fuse for the trailer left turn circuit, fuse in position 22 is a 7.5 amp fuse for the right turn circuit, if the fuses are good and you have power at them it is going to be wiring, at the back of the truck close to the driver side at the bumper is a gray connector that will take factory wiring to you trailer wiring the yellow wire is left turn/brake light, the green wire is right turn/brake light, and the brown is tail lights, and the orange wire is 12volt feed for if there is a battery on the trailer that needs to be kept charged for break away safty brakes.
Interior fuse box fuse no.33(15amp) supplies power in run/acc postion to BK/PK wire pin 19 of cluster.
Interior fuse box fuse no. 45(10 amp) supplies power in the start or run postion on the RD/YE wire pin 20 of cluster.
Interior fuse panel fuse no. 41(10amp) supplies power to the battery saver relay on LG/OG wire pin 11.
Interior fuse panel fuse no. 35(10amp) supplies power to interior lamp relay on BK/LG wire pin 12.
The last 2 are hot at all times.