Question about 1996 Dodge Caravan

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Fuel realy does not pickup in the keyswitch "Start-Run" position; and the starter relay will not pick up in the keyswitch "Start" position. All other controls and accessories seem to work just fine (radio, lights, remote lock, headlights go off in the start position, etc). I suspect a PCM problem. The dwgs are pretty bad and hard to follow and hard to cross reference from sheet-to-sheet. The vehicle is a 2003 Dodge Caravan V6 3.3L. All the wiring harnesses look good. No codes. Problem was intermittent for a days and now permanent. WILL NOT CRANK OR START. I have power from the keyswitch to C9, Pin 2 of the IPM. Can the PCM prevent starting and prevent the fuel pump from running in ignition switch on position? The batter is fine.

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  • garry_slanka Nov 18, 2009

    Thanks very much. Clarification: This is a 2003 and I will check the asd relay next. All the control power thus far is OK at the IPM. I suspect the PCM is not pulling the ASD and Fuel Pump Relay to gnd, ie, no output from the PCM. Documentation is NOT very good on this stuff. If I had a copy of dwgs of this 2003,3.3 V6 Model, I could probably better chase the signals around in the IPM. I have the keyswitch 12V inputs at the IPM connectors in both the run-start, and start positions. PCM returns no codes. I suspect the PCM but no way to look internally at the program. What kind of device failures (inputs) to the PCM would likely cause the PCM to call for an ASD shutdown?

  • garry_slanka Nov 19, 2009

    ASD does NOT pickup, even though the +12V is on the coil; the PCM is not allowing the ASD to operate. Thbe relay itself is OK. We are ordering a remanufactured PCM unless you have some more information to go on.

  • garry_slanka Nov 19, 2009

    Thanks, Ray. No, we did not check the crankshaft position sensor. I do not know how the crankshaft sensor would keep the starter from cranking. Maybe if the crankshaft sensor were to short out the 5V it might keep the computer from letting the ASD and Fuel Pump relay from picking up? But if the Crankshaft Position Sensor were bad, shouldn't we have seen some kind of code??? THANKS for any additional detail you can provide. Is the position sensor an absolute positioin input, or justosi

  • garry_slanka Nov 19, 2009

    --whoops, I hit send too soon. Isn't the CPS just a pulse, or is it some kind of absolute position sensor?

  • garry_slanka Nov 24, 2009

    Thanks for all the help and ideas. We replaced the PCM and everything operates OK now. Symptoms were: 1) would not crank, 20 no fuel pump or fuel pump relay pickup, 3) ASD relay did not pick up. There were no codes displayed, but all fuses, relays and IPM connections were OK, and keyswitch voltage (+12) was OK at the IPM. The documentation - or should I say the lack of documentation - on these electrical circuits is awful. With no codes to isolate the problem, and the difficulty in measuring voltages, plus bad dwgs makes for a tough time. I see why mechanics just have to start changing parts.

  • Patrick Rayome May 11, 2010

    Have you checked the Auto Shutdown Relay?

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  • Master
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Check the ignition wire that connects to the battery along with the big positive wire.

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

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  • Dodge Master
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If the Crankshaft Position Sensor is bad you will not get any Crank or Start. After checking the ASD Relay you may want to check the Crankshaft Position Sensor including the voltage (I believe 5v). I had the same problem with my 2002 (105K): no crank or start, replaced Sensor (Crankshaft) and it started.

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

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  • Patrick Rayome Nov 19, 2009

    Have you already checked the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the voltage?

    PCM are alot more expensive than a Sensor. If this sensor is not reading, it will do the exact same thing....stop everything including cranking and starting.

  • Patrick Rayome Nov 19, 2009

    Further go to alldatadiy.com they have an extensive wiring diagrams for this. I have used them and it did solve my problems,

    Around $25 for a 12-month usage.

    Let me know about the Crankshaft Positon Sensor and about the alldatadiy. I know you will be pleased with their site. (And NO I do not work for them!)

  • Patrick Rayome Nov 19, 2009

    The Engine will not operate if the PCM does not receive a Crankshaft Position Sensor output.

    Considerate it an "absolute"!!



    No, there is not a specific P Code for this Sensor. MIL Code is *11.

    The Voltage range is 0.3 to 5.0 Volts.

    Definitely check and/or replace this before spending on a new (remanufactured) PCM. Start Small and work your way to Big!!

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1 Answer

Start and die


Go to Autozone.com site and register your vehicle so you can get a free wiring and fusebox diagram.

I have several things to contribute. The keyswitch has 2 terminals which supply energy to the spark system. The START side of the keyswitch and the RUN side both energize the Relays in the Powerbox.

Without knowing how long the truck runs with your problem at each start, I am estimating it could be getting power only while spinning the starter. The engine catches and then dies when the key is released to RUN position.

Looking at your wiring diagram find your power wire from the Ignition key and see if the power is coming off the ignition switch in RUN. If you have power from the Key, then you need to look at the Relays.

Check your fuel pressure to see if the Fuelpump relay kicked out or see if the Ignition relay kicked out power to the ECM. The wiring diagram should help and Fusebox diagrams are available as well.

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2001 ford taurus, last time i crunk it up the starter stayed engaged even when i turned the car back off, i had to disconnect the battery, i replaced the starter but now it still wont crank and it blowes...


Hello, Take the small wire off the Starter relay and then use a testlight or Voltmeter to test the small wire by attaching one end of your gauge to a ground and the other to the small wire from the relay. It should have no power until you turn the keyswitch to start. If it does have power at other times that is part of the problem.

You have an Interlock switch on the Brake pedal lever under the dash. A lot of times a foot can hit this switch and break it and wires inside can jump and fuse together. Your ignition switch also has adjustments on the column on some models, so when you replace the switch; the rod or cable the switch connects to has to be the correct length. You determine this length by trial and error so that when the Keyswitch is in the START position, the small wire will have power.

With the constant cranking of the starter, I would replace the starter solenoid before attaching the small wire to it. Now that you are positive the small wire is working only in the START position when you attach the small wire the starter should not crank until you want it to.

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If you disconnect the power wire at the coil (ignition post) you can test the wire from the Keyswitch.
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I changed the starter, but the engine will not start. The solenoid only turns over the engine when it has the posts crossed.


IF you can start the engine by jumping a wire from the battery cable to the solenoid input, you've probably wired the starter wrong.
Some GM starters have two small connectors on the solenoid; one is an input to activate the solenoid, the other is an output to the coil. If you connect those wires wrong, the starter won't engage.
If you have the two wires that go to the solenoid for your vehicle, find a volt meter, disconnect the small wires on the starter then have a friend turn the keyswitch as though trying to start the engine. Use the volt meter to see which wire becomes activated ONLY when the keyswitch is in the "start" position. The other wire may have some voltage when the keyswitch is in the "on" position, or it may not have voltage at all.
The wire that is activated in the "start" position should go to the post that activates the solenoid when you jumper it.
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On the starter relay you want to disconnect the wire from the starter to the relay. Put on a testlight and ground it or use a Voltmeter. Operate your Keyswitch and see if the power stays on when you release your Keyswitch from the start position. If the power stays on its either your Keyswitch or your Relay that is bad.

Without removing the testlight or voltmeter, if the power is still on, remove the Tickler wire from the relay. If the power goes off with the tickler wire off then it is the Keyswitch that is stuck. Your Keyswitch inside is making contact with the Start side off the switch in the Run position

If your Relay stays on, without the Tickler wire connected the Relay is bad. It is fused across the contact posts.

If there are no power issues found, take the starter out and put some Brake silicon grease and liberally do the shaft. Then jump the starter out of the truck and work the lube into the Bendix.
I also had clients with tractors doing the same thing from their rebuilder. The Bendixes were shipped dry and never lubed.

I hope my information is what you needed.

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Checked the battery and starter. Replaced the ignition switch and battery cables and my car still won't start


I'm assuming this is a no crank condition. Bad grounds are a problem with these cars, make sure all grounds are good. If you have a voltmeter, use DC VOLTS and check the starter wire on the starter while someone else is turning the keyswitch to the start position. If readings are battery volts, chances are that your starter is bad. If readings are nothing or very low, then you have to backtrack the electrical system. Go to the power distribution box, look for a starter relay, switch the AC relay with the starter relay and see if the car will start. PS, stay away from parking blocks, the radiator core support is right there, good luck, Gary

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