Question about 2001 Honda Civic

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Changed the spark plugs and air filter yesterday and tested compression all good. Car starts but stalling with the engine knocking. Sounds as though its getting fuel. The car chirps when I close the door but yet alarm not even on. The new battery had to be charged this a.m. cause it was not fully charged. Engine still shaking when stalling any ideas??? What to look for next??

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  • Honda Master
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Check the charging system,cars today will not run without the amps to supply the ignition system,just battery voltage will not keep the car running correctly.Look for at least 13.65 to 14.25 volts.The knocking ,I hope is from the car not running on all cylinders.If there is a bad engine knock caused from a crankshaft bearing or rod,then the knock sensor would pick this up,and the computer would try to adjust to this,and can not of course,but that would explain the poor performance.Now if the battery was ever took off the car,or went down to low,the computer could have lost memory,and would have to be re flashed at the dealer to get the engine to run correctly,and the alarm.

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

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2 Answers

I have a 2001 Pontiac Montana minivan that is misfiring stalling and cutting out. I put in fuel additive thinking it might be the injectors and premium gasoline . Could this be a bad fuel filter?


It could be a timing issue (misfire) but it absolutely could also be either air or fuel filter. If it's starving for fuel, it's the fuel filter. If it's starving for air (too rich), it would also stall out and that could be the air filter. Basically, you need 4 things to make an engine work: compression, air, fuel, and spark.

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Engine Rotates (acts as it will start) won't fully turn over.


Did you replace the TPS (throttle position sensor)?? Try that if you haven't so. But if you did that already, and still getting the same problem, I would suspect the fuel pump going bad.

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1 Answer

1994 jeep cherokee dies and is very hard to start back


can you save the stall with a fast right foot>?
my wild guess (no engine option stated, so...2.5L 4.0L or?????.)
EGR sticking open, (if it has one)
flooding, (spark tips soaked in raw fuel?)
starving. (is it?) for fuel? same test as above, but bone dry. cranked.
bad spark test spark, is it good on all cyl.? ever do a tune up this decade?
does cranking (opr.guide secret trick) with wide open throttle start the engine?)
opr guide trick to , does 10% applied throttle help starts
yes, then the ISC may be stuck closed.

stalls are cause by 4 things, (but 50 reasons)
1: lost 12vdc to EFI system. (see dash go dead or lights dim?)
2: lost compression, hot. Id bet not... on this car.
3: lost spark, easy tests. same way for 100 years. a test spark plug.
4: bad fueling, this puts you in the 50 reasons way.
but we dont go there, we do the tests, if you get to step 4.
ask for tests. (have many, all in fact.
#4 test, read the spark tips....... they talk to you.

do the for gotton 60,000 mile tune up now....
spark parts and filter....

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1 Answer

1992 Buick regal running with miss


I would do a compression test to see if all cylinders are good, and no internal mechanical damage has occurred.
If compression is good, check for possible intake manifold leak that especially affects the right bank- the bank with 1, 3, and 5 cylinders.
No way I can think of that spark would be different on the right bank, so it could be wrong air/fuel mixture for that side, or possible loss of compression that is causing the misfires.

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2 Answers

The engine rotates but won,t start. installed a new fuel filter, spark plugs(gapped @ .040"), new spark plug wires, and a new camshaft sensor. the car might have run out of gas. the data link...


Hi

It sounds like a timing issue if you are getting fuel, spark and air then I would look at that first. is the crank shaft sensor good?
Regards

Dan

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1 Answer

Constant dead battery. Constant changing of spark plugs and coils and plug wires. Constant change of battery. When starts and driving, takes no more than 3 miles for the engine to get warmed up and if I...


Sounds like you are right on the apex seals. Oil coming from the intake is probably from excessive blowby pressure in the engine due to bad seals. The battery could be bad from age, is it the original battery?

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The engine turnes but it wont start.


Free Auto Repair Advice by Professional Mechanics




Troubleshooting / Car Engine Cranks but Will Not Start / Engine Crank But Wont Start 2

* Why does my engine stall at idle?
* How do I change my spark plugs?
* Why does my engine stall?
* Why does the engine stall after replacing the battery?
* Why won't my engine crank over?
* How to retrieve trouble codes
* How to test fuel delivery system
* Engine cranks excessively
* Engine has excessive smoke
* Rapid ticking sounds when engine is cranked
* How to tune up your engine
* How to jump start your engine
* How to test an oxygen sensor
* How to open a car hood
* How a flywheel - flex plate works

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run. Follow the repair guide below:


Engine Configuration with Camshaft Operation

*

Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
*

Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
*

Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (engine control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

If your engine cranks but does not start follow this troubleshooting guide:
* Step 1 - Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
* Step 2 - To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
* Step 3 - The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect their condition. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
* Step 4 - Determine if the engine has compression, this can be done a number of ways but the most complete method is to perform a compression check. Remove the spark plugs and perform a compression test on one cylinder. If one cylinder has compression then the remaining cylinders usually will be close to the same. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds, normal compression readings should be between 125 psi and 160 psi on each cylinder. If no or little compression exists additional tests will be needed. The most common reason for an engine to lose compression is a timing belt or timing chain failure. If low or no compression exists remove the oil fill cap and observe camshaft rotation when the engine is cranked over. If no rotation exists the timing belt or chain has failed. If your engine has a timing belt and you cannot see the camshaft easily remove the upper bolts to the timing cover and gain visual access to the belt, recheck cam rotation by cranking the engine over. Sometimes a timing belt or chain can jump causing the camshaft to lose correlation with the crankshaft and therefore causing low compression. The best test for this condition is to remove the timing belt/chain cover and inspect timing marks. If the compression is ok proceed to next step.
* Step 5 - Test the ignition system output, ignition systems can vary in configuration but operate on the same principal. Ignition systems can consist of a coil, pick up coil, crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition rotor and a distributor and any variations of these components. An ignition coil is a voltage stepper coil that transforms a low voltage (12 volts) signal into tens of thousands of volts needed to jump the gap of the spark plug. This coil is activated by an ignition module triggered by using the camshaft/crankshaft angle sensor; timing is adjusted by the ECM (computer).

Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

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2 Answers

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2 Answers

Running fine then wont'nt start


You will have to pull a spark plug out to check that you have spark when cranking the engine,while you have the plug/s out do a compression test to determine health of engine and wether it is in fact giving compression,eliminates other potential faults if compression is good.If you have compression(around 140 ish)and introduced fuel and it wont fire up it only leaves electrics as the fault.3 major engine requirements to run Fuel,Compression,ignition.When checking spark at night is best as you can easily see wether you have the correct type of spark,Blue and if its quite you will hear the spark as well.Your fault is consistant with ignition module,coil or lack of power to ignition.Faulty modules will give a spark but its too weak to ignite fuel and the spark will be yellow in color.Let me know how it goes.Good luck

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