Car would not start. Mechanic stated fuel pump problem. Spent $400 to fix with new pump. Fuse box was VERY hot. First mechanic switched around fuses. Wipers stayed on and would not stop. Same problem with starting (fuel pump again). Spent $200 to correct installation with second mechanic. Second mechanic switched around fuses. Led to multiple problems: windshield wipers do not work at all, cruise control does not work, dashboard lights sem to flicker and dim, sometimes turn signals ddo not respond, horn very low, driver's side headlight and parking lamps are very dim and flicker. Now car having same starting problems. Seems like same problem as before with original fuel pump issues. Mechanic fiddled with VERY hot fuse box and it started right up. Second mech states electrical problem. Have a third electrical mechanic on his way. What should he target?
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Re: Car would not start. Mech stated had a fuel pump
Sound as a grounded B+ wire (voltage supply), sorry but need a good honest electrician, he might need to tear down electrical harness to trace, find and repair if possible grounded wires, hope is not too much damaged
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i can tell your mech is not ASE pro. not at all. guessing is for squids. a pro uses his tools. he didnt now you are broke, find a real ASE mech, and save $$$ so what was the fuel pressure.
if the pressure (generic answer) at the rails is not 30 psi and your mech cant figure that out, fire him. dont argue with him, just move on. if the pressure is good at the rail and 1PSI (squirt tests are useless) then check the pumps stall shunt pressure. if at spec the regulator is leaking. if the pump fails the shunt test its is weak. check for 12v key on for 3 seconds in to said pump. if 12v dont land there, bingo now power. sorry 8v is no good, 12 or as low as 11v lowest there, at the pump. the pump is not running full time the ECU prevent that and the TV crash and burn issue. it runs for 3 seconds each keyon. some older cars, only have pump voltage cranking. read the FSM , its all there, including all the test and all these pressures, .
sorry your mech, sux, truely ! i am sorry for you. find the ASE badge on his /her sleeve, see that>\? no? the Walkonbye. (pun included )
let him fix it, or find a new mechanic, here in USA , any ASE mech can to that. i do not understand those facts above. did not and self nor key. seem it is 2 problems. engine dont run right.? and the Immobilizer is bad?
Turn the ignition on and off several times before inspecting the gas tank because a blown fuse is the usual cause for fuel gauge malfunctioning. If the gauge remains motionless, check your fuse box and determine the fuse's location using your service manual. Replace the fuse if the link is broken or damaged. Then, inspect the gauge's wire connections for cleanliness and make sure the wires are connected. Turn the ignition switch to the "off" position. Attach one end of a jumper cable to the fuel-gauge terminal behind the gauge itself. Attach the other end to the ignition terminal. Replace the sender unit in the gas tank if the gauge reads full and your car does not have a full tank. Replace the fuel gauge if the needle remains inoperative.
Do this test first. With the drivers door opened in a nice quite area turn the ignition key to the ON position without starting the engine. You should hear the fuel pump operating for 5 seconds which is priming fuel to the engine. If not heard the engines oil pressure sensor is at fault. The third wire from this sensor links to the fuel pump to prime. When the engine reaches normal operation oil pressure range the computer shuts off that circuit and turns on the fuel pump relay for the pump to run. That relay stays on until you shut the engine off
Try changing the fuel filter first we always change them when servicing the fuel pump anyway,its easy and cheap,if that doesnt solve the problem you will have to perform an amperage draw test on the fuel pump to insure your not replacing a good pump. Check the fuel pump relay and inertia switch and wiring also.Although possible its unlikley the fuel pump would blow a fuse consistantly without displaying any driveability problems.There may also be another component running off the fuel pump fuse have your mechanic pull a wiring diagram to find out. Good hunting keep me informed
Does it still turn on the "Check Engine" lite. Did your mechanic recommend the tune up to "fix" the check engine lite issue or vibration issue? You may want to go back to that shop and ask them why the repairs they recommended didn't fix it? However if the ignition is good, and the compression is good, that pretty much leaves fuel system as the issue. You may have an injector not working properly. Try some good injector cleaner first. Try the Chevron brand w/Techron. It is more expensive but the solvents in that mixture really work well. Don't overlook fuel pressure, but that shouldn't pick on one cylinder. A new fuel filter would be a good idea anyway.