97 civic ex MT clutch "flops", very little resistance
When I press the clutch pedal in I get very little resistance, and sometimes it's difficult to get it pushed in enough to shift in to gear. If I "pump" the clutch pedal it I can get it in gear. I'm a mechanical iditiot, is it something as simple as needing some manual tran fluid or could it be worse? Thanks
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The only adjustment is free play at the pedal, the clutch release is hydraulic and is self adjusting. If the engagement is getting low on the pedal, it usually means the clutch is wearing out. It is possible that the hydraulics are leaking, inspect the slave, master and hose.
Hello, try opening the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, leave it open, pull the pedal up and then pump the pedal down and pull it up repeatedly until you feel some pressure, close the valve and try bleeding the rest of the air out in the normal manner.
There are two switches. The one you probably want is the starter/clutch interlock switch which is located at near the upper end of the clutch pedal. This switch engages your clutch. If engine wont turn over with clutch depressed and key to start, loosen the locknut and turn the cylinder clockwise to move the switch in closer to the clutch, try again. If problem persists, check ignition switch wiring for shorts/bad connections; there is no voltage from the starter relay to the switch, or no continuity between the two terminals on the switch, or the switch is bad. Hope this helps you out
Check the connections of the bulb sockets and the contacts on the bulbs themselves. Sometimes a small amount of corrosion or oxidation can increase the resistance in the circuit enough to cause the flasher to cycle erratically. When the fast flashing occurs, check both your front and rear bulbs. Is one dimmer than the other? If so, start by checking that one first.
While unlikely...does your Honda have any sort of towing capability? If so, corrosion or a short in your trailer light connection can also wreak havoc on a flasher. If your car has a tow hitch, you may want to remove the trailer wiring adapter from the car's factory wiring and see if the problem disappears. If so, either remove or replace the defective controller.
Look for WETNESS at the Master cylinder, and at the Slave cylinder, attached to the Bell housing. The loss of fluid is reducing the Stroke of the Push Rod, which will create Clutch Drag, as you appear to describe.
i have just replaced an 03 civic ex clutch and transmission bearings due to a customer being too harsh on it. It sounds like its got a little life left in it if you are easy on it.
if there is adjustment in this model use the below walkthrough to adjust it.
adjust the clutch pedal,
1. if you look up on the top of the clutch pedal, the first thing you should see if a clutch pedal position switch, and right behind it there is a locknut, looens the locknut. once you loosen it, back off on the pedal position switch or adjusting bolt untill it no longer touches the clutch pedal.
2. now behind the clutch pedal, there is a pushrod. and on that pushrod, there is a locknut, loosen that locknut. Now turn the pushrod in or out to get the desired height and stroke at the clutch pedal.
The freeplay is the amount of push on the clutch pedal to where is starts to have resistance from the top. I have usually been told it should be set at 1 1/2-2 inches of freeplay.
Once you set it, tighten the locknut on the pushrod. With the clutch pedal released, turn in the clutch pedal position switch untill it contacts the clutch pedal. then turn it an additional 3/4 to 1 turn. And tighten the locknut.
Now on top of the clutch pedal switch, there is a clutch interlock switch. Loosen the locknut on that switch. then press the clutch pedal to the floor.
release the clutch pedal 15-20 mm (0.59-0.79 in) from the fully pressed position, and hold it there. adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch so the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position. then tighten the locknut on that switch.