Question about 2002 Nissan Maxima

3 Answers

I have a 91 maxima which is not getting spark. i replaced the coil, crank positioning sensor, checked power transistor, condenser, resistor, and replaced the ecu, but still have no spark

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  • Karl Kittsteiner Nov 17, 2009

    i replaced the distributor and coil, the rest of the system checked out.

  • Karl Kittsteiner Nov 17, 2009

    the coil shows full battery vvoltage on both sides all of the time on ignition side and the one going to the distributor

  • Karl Kittsteiner Nov 17, 2009

    i have a 91 maxima and don't get a spark. i have replaced the ecu, coil, and checked the power transistor, resistor, capacitor. the coil has battery voltage on both sides when ignition is on. i replaced the distributor, but get no spark. i am using the factory repair manual.

  • Karl Kittsteiner Nov 17, 2009

    does the ignition coil have battery voltage all of the time? when cranking the motor the coil voltage stays on both sides all of the time

  • Karl Kittsteiner Nov 18, 2009

    i am still in the process of going through the items you suggested. i'll get back to you tomorrow.

  • darrell Bryant Nov 22, 2011

    look for a ground wire....maybe back of motor...should attach to the medal ...just being loose can cause car to cut off, not crank, etc....this was a problem i found once after doing 20 other things trying to figure it out ...was behind my carb/ injectors....worth a try...good luck!

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  • Master
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Are you aware that your car has an ignition module in the distributor. The crank sensor could of been tested before replacing to determine its condition. With this info by checking the injector pulse and module pulse it could of been determined that the PCM was good and that the module was the fault. Anyways hope this helps since the module is the last choice. Providing you havnt blown a PCM or ignition fuse, that is if your car has a fuse option for that.

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

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  • Nissan Master
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Change the pick up coil in the distributor.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

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  • Ronny Bennett Sr.
    Ronny Bennett Sr. Nov 17, 2009

    No,the voltage should be either 12 volts on the positive side,or about 7.5,to 8 depending on,if it has a resister or not.The other side should have less voltage,and should dewell.If using a test light on the negative side,it should strobe the test light.This shows the breaking of the hall effect in the distributor,or like the old cars,the breaking of the points.When this hall effect switch is breaking,it loads the coil to fire,if it is not doing this,the distributor is not turning.Check to see if the timing chain has broke.The rotor button,will not be turning when cranking the engine.Check this,and come back,and tell me.roniecon@gmail.com,,,this will be easier to contact me.

  • Ronny Bennett Sr.
    Ronny Bennett Sr. Nov 18, 2009

    Have you checked to see if the timing chain has broke?

  • Ronny Bennett Sr.
    Ronny Bennett Sr. Nov 18, 2009

    Hello,are you there?

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  • Expert
  • 139 Answers

Hello,
Have you confirmed voltage at the ignition coil and module( Igniter) you will need to have power there. If you have power and all the grounds are ok then you may have a bad distributor pick up (cam sensor). The distributor as a whole is what I replace when I find a problem internaly. The replacement parst are usually more expensive to replace than the complete unit.

I hope this helps.
Roy

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • Roy Funkhouser
    Roy Funkhouser Nov 17, 2009

    Have you checked all the power into the ECM and the grounds? The ECM in this car also has to do with the ignition Circuit. I am just trying to help.



    Roy

  • Roy Funkhouser
    Roy Funkhouser Nov 17, 2009

    Hello,

    I am in the process of going over the schematics don't give up on me I wont give up on you. I hope you stick with me. I will send you the schematics too.



    Roy

  • Roy Funkhouser
    Roy Funkhouser Nov 17, 2009

    Hello,

    Here is the Schematics for you.


    I hope this helps.



    Roy

  • Roy Funkhouser
    Roy Funkhouser Nov 17, 2009

    Hello,
    Here is the Schematics for you.
    I hope this helps.

    Roy

  • Roy Funkhouser
    Roy Funkhouser Nov 17, 2009

    Hello,

    Have you checked the Igniter? It is seperate from the power transistor.

    Roy

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1 Answer

Not getting a spark out of the coil?


The proper procedure is to first check that the coil is getting power to the positive side of the coil with key in on. It must show power.

If the coil has power to it, then check if the controlling device is turning the primary to the coil off and on-this is what the Ignition control module (ICM) does. Or in some cases a "power transistor" is used to control the coil primary (some imports, for instance).

The ecu signals the ICM (or the power transistor) when it wants the coil to deliver a secondary surge through the coil leading to a spark. The ecu (or pcm) must get a signal from the crank position sensor so it knows when to time the spark.
So if no spark, check if coil primary has power, then check secondary coil operation-if no secondary (no spark), possibly bad coil, bad ICM, or missing the crank position sensor signal.

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If you are getting power to the distributor cap but not from there to the leads/ plugs! It must be within the distributor! Does it have a condenser in the distributor?

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Code P1320: Ignition Signal

- Ignition primary circuit is open or shorted
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have you pulled a spark plug to see if they are getting wet with fuel? Have you got power to the ignition coils with the ignition switch in the on position? The coils get power and are then grounded by the ECU. if power to coils, then replace coils.

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My car is not getting any spark from the coil


T COULD BE YOUR CAMSHAFT SENSOR OR CRANKSHAFT SENSOR. SOMETIMESTHE TIMING CHAIN JUMPS A TOOTH AND CAUSES THIS TO HAPPEN ASWELL.

1. At the coils, check for battery voltage at the Red wires while cranking, the Black wires should be less than 0.05 volts while cranking. Pin 3 at the coils (each wire color at the #3 pin are different) using a scope watch for a 3 - 4 volt pulse signal while cranking. Red wire - battery voltage, Black wire is a ground and the White wire is the signal circuit

2. If there is no pulse signal to the power transistors, using a scanner check the POS counts (Position) should be 179 - 181 while cranking. If inconsistent, check the signal plate (flywheel/flex plate) for damaged teeth. If there is an RPM signal and the POS counts are correct, this crankshaft sensor is good.

3. On the front of the engine, mounted on the oil pan is the crankshaft sensor (REF) reference. Check the AC voltage while cranking, should be a clean sine wave that indicates the Top Dead Center (TDC) position of each piston. White and Black wires in a 2 pin connector

4. Check the Camshaft (phase) sensor AC voltage output. This sensor should also be a clean sine wave. This sensor detects cylinder number. This sensor is located in the front cover facing the cam gear. White and Black wires in a 2 pin connector.

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1 Answer

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On this model engine, the power to the coil pack is delivered directly from the power transistors located inside the PCM.
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