Question about Toyota Camry

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Found the problem with the engine surge. It was the EGR valve on my 2002 Toyota Camry V6. Dealer wants $500 to replae it. Cost at NAPA for OEM part is about $200. I have replaced many EGR's on old cars, but this one looks a bit tough. Two of the bolts look very easy to remove since they are at the top of the valve and facing forward. However, there are two bolts on the bottom of the valve that are facing towards the fire wall and are tucked under the throttle body. Appears to be very limited room to put a wrench back there to get them off. Any suggestons...what's the trick to remove those bottom bolts?? Thanks in advance of your help.

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  • preffner Nov 17, 2009

    Thanks for your assistance

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Hi, The tools I used: 1. 12 mm 3/8 in. drive socket 2. 3/8 in. drive universal joint 3. 3/8 in. drive 18 in. extension bar 4. 3/8 in. drive ratchet The steps are: 1. Disconnect battery. 2. Raise the car. 3. Unplug the connector. (You can not see it this step.)See attached picture. 4. Unscrew 12 mm bolt. (You can see the bolt but your hand may block your view while unscrewing it.) See attached picture. 5. Move the vsv to where you can see.(Now you can see it.) 6. Remove one of the vacuum tube and plug it to the same place on the new vsv. 7. Remove the other of the vacuum tube and plug it to the same place on the new vsv. 8. Move the vsv back. (Now you can not see it again.) 9. Screw 12 mm bolt back in. 10. plug the connector slowly until you hear a click sound.(You can not see it this step.) BTW, It is very hard to reach it and most steps you can not see the vsv that you are working on. But if you know where it is, you can do it without seeing it. A Nice Post by A User :- I just did this repair and the information was helpful. Especially kodyw's suggestion to use a universal joint and extension with a 12mm socket. I was stuck until I re-read the posting and saw that. As a way of passing the favor along, I'll post a few specifics of my experience in doing this repair, similar to what I posted on another forum. The part can be tested after removal (if you're willing to stand the removal/insertion grief) and a simple resistance check should show 33-39 Ohms between the terminals and no continuity between either terminal and the part's mounting frame. You can blow through it from the plastic port and with no voltage applied the air will come out the metal one, with some effort. Applying 12V (positive to the terminal closest to the bracket's main mounting bolt) to the terminals will cause the air to flow out the plastic atmospheric vent/filter. Current required is about 0.25A. Testing is apparently not very reliable, though, as the part can be pretty intermittent when it starts failing. I tested my old part after putting the new one in and it changed its behavior after a few test cycles. As for removal/installation, it's a PIA. It's in a terrible position, against the rear of the engine block and under (access blocked by) the intake manifold. It's blocked from the back by an engine mount and from the bottom by the CV half-shafts (and a mounting bracket) from the transmission to the right front wheel. Perhaps it's possible change it from the top (arm between the manifold and the firewall), but I could neither see or reach it that way, and it wasn't even a close call for me. The only possible access I could get was from the right front wheel well, after removing the wheel. The Camry's own jack is fine for this, but remember to use a jackstand too! First remove the electrical plug (push in on the plug latch from the car's right side) and then push it out of the way. The 12mm bolt is very hard to reach and you'll likely need a socket and a universal joint, along with an extension 8-18 inches long. It's clumsy, you can't see what you're doing, and it's a knuckle-scuffer. Once you've got the bolt removed it's best to crawl under the car to pull the bracket out to the left of the engine mount and down so that you can get reasonable access to pull the vacuum hoses off and reinstall them on the new valve. This is the easy part. Even reinstalling the valve is clumsy, and it took virtually all of my reach (sitting on the floor with my shoulder in the wheel well) to get the bolt and bracket reinstalled. The bracket kept wanting to drift to the left, pulled by the vacuum hoses, and I used a long wire with a hook in it (held in my other hand) to pull it back while I inserted the bolt. Since I couldn't be sure I got the mounting bolt very tight I used a little dab of medium-strength thread-locking compound on the mounting bolt. I didn't find any reason to unhook the battery for this procedure, so the check engine light stayed on for a few drive cycles after the fix. It apparently takes a warm engine and a variety of driving, over at least 2 on/off ignition cycles, and speeds of 50+ MPH, to reset the light. kodyw, how did you get those pictures? One of them, by the way, shows the actual valve part number, without the bracket (90910-12080). I suspect they don't sell it that way, but it would be easy enough to put a new valve in an old bracket if you could get one. Let me know, if needed further assistance. Hope i helped you. Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

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