Question about 1995 Nissan Pathfinder

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Took torsion bars off kept them in the crossmember and when i went to put them on I had no weight on the front and tightened the bolts half way and let the truck down and it sank to the bump stops its a 95 nissan pathfinder Ive never done this before could use all the help I could get

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Did you put the adjuster back at where they were before you disassembled it? Are you sure it wasn't on the bumper stops to begin with ? Does it look like the ride height is lower than it was ? If everything is together the way it should be and you have the adjusters at there max adjustment then your torsion bars are probably shot.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

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How do I replace a front suspension crossmember on a Chevy Silverado 2500 HD 4x4?


The actual crossmember is not very heavy but since it is bent, there may be other "stressed" portions of the frame.
- I would slack off the bolts to determine the effect before fully removing them. Also would measure betweeen the bolt holes on the replacement and the bolts on the vehicle. If the distances are different, some frame moving may be required. That could take some force.
- If the slack bolt position allows the crossmember to be wiggled easily, I'd remove it and work at getting the replacement installed.
WORK SAFE! Don't get under the vehicle unless it is on a hoist or on jack stands.

Oct 22, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I didn't mark the torsion bar when I took it out, how do I install it without the marks


jack the car right up with the wheels off the floor
install the torsion bar with the adjuster bolt unscrewed all the way off
fit the bar and lower the car back onto the floor so that all the weight is on the torsion bar
it should be sitting a bit low at this point
adjust up the adjuster bolt to when it sits level
if there is not enough adjustment the jack up the car again
let the adjuster right off an this time use a pipe wrench ( stiltsons ) to turn the bar against the stop plate a spline then insert it into the housing
this preloads the bar before any adjustment
lower the car and again adjust the bolt
EXTREME CARE AND VEHICLE STANDS SHOULD BE USED AS THE CAR COLLAPSING CAN CRUSH THE PERSON UNDERNEATH

Oct 20, 2015 | 1976 Cadillac Eldorado

1 Answer

In a 2000 ford expedition does the cross member under the transfer case need to be removed? to take the transfer case out . if so how do I remove the bars attach to it ?


First you need to measure the height from the ground to the frame on each side on level ground. Write those numbers down. If you follow the torsion bars to the crossmember, you will see arms or levers attached to them. Counter clockwise will lower them. Remove the bolts, then the torsion bars then the crossmember.

Aug 21, 2013 | 2000 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

What does the control arm on the front left driver side supposed to look like fully assembled


Hello! First diagram is the lower...Second is the upper..Guru...saailer

LOWER IDENTIFICATION:




Item
Part Number Description 1
5495 Stabilizer Bar Link Bolt and Bushing Assembly 2
18A192 Nut, Washer and Bushing Assembly 3
808264 Bolt 4
5005 Frame 5
5B326 Torsion Bar (LH) 6
5B327 Torsion Bar (RH) 7
620481 Nut 8
5C491 Nut and Washer 9
3079 Front Suspension Lower Arm (LH) 10
3078 Front Suspension Lower Arm (RH) 11
3A130 Tie Rod End 12
808166 Nut 13
808167 Nut 14
5K483 Front Stabilizer Bar Link 15
5482 Front Stabilizer Bar 16
5484 Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing 17
3B353 Front Stabilizer Retainer 18
N807396-S100 Bolt A
- Tighten to 40-55 Nm
(30-40 Lb-Ft) B
- Tighten to 150-200 Nm (111-148 Lb-Ft) C
- Tighten to 21-29 Nm
(15-21 Lb-Ft)


UPPER IDENTIFICATION:
Item Part Number Description 1 3C156 Damper Assembly (RH) 2 805348 Nut and Washer 3 - Shock Absorber Insulator
(Part of 18198) 4 3C157 Damper Assembly (LH) 5 3020 Front Suspension Bumper 6 3083 Front Suspension Upper Arm Assembly A - Tighten to 34-47 Nm
(25-35 Lb-Ft)



LOWER DIAGRAM FOLLOWED BY UPPER:

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Feb 12, 2012 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

I need to know in what order does the torsion bar linkage go. I took my blazer to the garage to get it inspected and they told me that they were put on wrong.


Aint much to a torsion bar, it has 2 identicle ends. Both ends are hexigon shaped. And only one adjustable screw, one for each side. Tighten it, and it will raise the front of your vehicle, loosen it, and it lowers the front of your vehicle. All torsion bars are not equal, so a set amount of turns to adjust is not a fix all solution. Mine is 10-1/2 turns from first thread contact, but, you need about a 1/2 inch of clearance from lower arm to lower bump stop. Or to find the Z hieght of your blazer. Measure from the center of your lower arm bolt/pin to the ground (vehicle must be level). then measure from the bottom of the stearing knuckle to the ground. Subtract the two measurements, you want 4.9 inches(4" 7/8"). The higher you turn the torsion bar to raise your front end. the more problems you will have, especially rough riding.

P.S. You can do this adjustment without jacing up the Blazer. But if you have to tighten the adjustment screw, it can be tough. I suggest jacking up one side, Use a jack stand for safety! make an adjustment, then lowewr the vehicle. rock it back and forth to let the suspension settle and measure again. and repeat till all is well.

Mar 01, 2011 | 2001 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

I need to locate a service manual to remove and replace a plastic fuel tank with a metal one. Also for body/mirror and door replacements. Help--Thanks


  1. Release the fuel system pressure using the recommended procedure.
  2. Remove the fuel pump unit through the access panel in the floor of the trunk. Drain the fuel tank into a portable fuel siphoning container through the opening in the fuel tank where the fuel pump is mounted.

Prior to disconnecting fuel lines, wrap a shop rag around the connections to absorb any fuel spillage due to residual pressure in the lines.
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove both rear tires.
  3. Remove the exhaust pipe rubber insulators off the mounting studs of the rear of the vehicle and in front of the fuel tank.
  4. Using grease pencil or paint marker, place alignment marks on the fuel filler hose, filler tube, vent hose and vent tube.
  5. Remove the rear splash shield from the right rear wheel well.
  6. Disconnect the fuel filler hose and the vent hose near the fuel filter.

  1. Disconnect both ends of the sway bar from the stabilizer links. Use a grease pencil or paint marker to outline the position of the crossmember ends on the frame rail.

  1. Remove the crossmember mounting bolts and pull the crossmember down until it stops.

  1. Place a transmission jack under the fuel tank to support its weight.

The sway bar bracket bolts must be replaced after loosening or removal. Only use original equipment bolts as replacement.
  1. Remove the sway bar mounting bracket, heat shield and fuel tank strap. To prevent the sway bar from falling down, install sway bar mounting bracket with the bolts finger-tight only.

  1. Carefully and slowly lower the front of the fuel tank. Slide the tank away from the crossmember while pushing the filler vent and fill tube over the crossmember. Detach any remaining fuel or electrical connections. Lower the fuel tank.

To install:
  1. Position the tank on the transmission jack or other suitable lift, with the shield and the tank strap in place. Raise the tank over the crossmember and place it in the proper position. Be sure that the electrical connector, pressure relief/rollover valve hose, fuel supply and return lines are accessible through the opening in the trunk. Check to be sure that nothing is pinched or kinked in any way.
  2. Push the vent and the filler tube over the crossmember. Rotate the sway bar into position and install the sway bar brackets.
  3. Raise the tank into place and position the sway bar mounting bracket and the tank straps in place. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
  4. Raise the crossmember into position and align with the locating marks made during removal. Install bolts and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
  5. Reconnect the filler tube and vent tube making sure to align with the marks made during removal.
  6. Connect the sway bar ends to the link arms and tighten sway bar mounting nuts to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
  7. Install the exhaust onto the hangers. Install the rear splash shield in the right rear wheel well.
  8. Install the rear wheels and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm).
  9. Lower the vehicle.
  10. Install the fuel pump module.
  11. Connect the fuel supply, return and vent tubes. After installation of the quick-connect fittings, check for proper connection by pulling back on the quick-connect fitting. The tube should lock in place. If the connection is not complete, make sure the black plastic ring is not causing the locking retainer to jam in the release position.
  12. Install the fuel pump access cover and gasket. Tighten the fasteners and install the trunk liner.
  13. Install the filler cap and reconnect the negative battery cable.
  14. With the ignition in the ON position, access the DRB III ASD Fuel System Test to pressurize the fuel system. Check for leaks.

  1. Check the rear wheel alignment and adjust, if necessary.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Aug 16, 2010 | 1994 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

Corvette sway bar installation


Stabilizer Bar: Service and Repair
Front
Removal Procedure
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
3. Remove the stabilizer shaft link nuts from the stabilizer shaft.
4. Remove the stabilizer shaft insulator clamps from the front crossmember.
5. Remove the stabilizer shaft from the vehicle.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the stabilizer shaft, insulator clamps and bolts to the crossmember.
2. Install the stabilizer shaft links to the stabilizer shaft.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
3. Install the stabilizer shaft link nuts.
- Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nuts to 72 Nm (53 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bolts.
- Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bolts to 58 Nm (43 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
6. Lower the vehicle.



Stabilizer Bar: Service and Repair
Rear
Removal Procedure
1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
3. Remove the stabilizer shaft link nuts from the stabilizer shaft.
4. Remove the stabilizer shaft clamps, bolts and nuts retaining the shaft to the crossmember.
5. Remove the stabilizer shaft from the vehicle.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the stabilizer shaft to the vehicle.
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
2. Install the stabilizer shaft insulator clamps to the stabilizer shaft and the crossmember.
- Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp bolts to 65 Nm (49 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten the stabilizer shaft insulator clamp nuts to 95 Nm (70 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the stabilizer shaft links to the stabilizer shaft.
- Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nuts to 72 Nm (53 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation.
5. Lower the vehicle.


Oct 30, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

How to change lower ball joints


part of lower arm assembly only.

Installation
  1. Inspect lower ball joint boots and seals for damage and replace if required. Lower ball joint and seal is part of front suspension lower arm and must be replaced as an assembly.
  1. NOTE: Do not tighten the front suspension lower arm bolts and nuts to the specified torque until the end of assembly. Install nuts and tighten until snug.

    Position the front suspension lower arm in the front crossmember. Install the bolts. Install the nuts and tighten until snug.
  1. Install torsion bar. Refer to Torsion Bar in this section.
  1. Raise the front suspension lower arm to allow installation of front suspension lower arm ball joint into spindle bore.
  1. Lower front suspension lower arm with a jack while making sure lower ball joint is seated in spindle bore. Install the lower ball joint attaching nut and tighten to 113-153 Nm (82-113 lb-ft). Install a new cotter pin.
  1. Raise vehicle. Position the front shock absorber and install the nut/washer/bushing assembly. Tighten nut to 40-55 Nm (30-40 lb-ft).
  1. Install the two nuts attaching the front shock absorber to the lower control arm and tighten to 21-29 Nm (15-21 lb-ft).
  1. NOTE: Front suspension lower arms must be in the horizontal or curb position (vehicle on the ground) when tightening the front stabilizer bar link bolts. Use jackstands to raise the front suspension lower arms to the horizontal position or lower the vehicle to the ground (curb position).

    Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  1. Connect the stabilizer bar link bolt to the front suspension lower arm and tighten to 13-17 Nm (10-13 lb-ft).
  1. Tighten nuts and front suspension lower arm bolts to the No. 1 crossmember to 150-200 Nm (111-148 lb-ft).
  1. Check ride height and align as necessary. Refer to Section 04-00 .
  1. Lower the vehicle.

Apr 17, 2009 | 1996 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Torsion bars


I'm going to use the torsion bar crossmember as the reference point.Laying behind the torsion bar crossmember on your stomach,looking squarely at and across the crossmember,the adjusters that the torsion bars slip into,want to as level as possible from left to right,or right to left in relation to the crossmember.Insert the torsion bar in the front anchor point,on the lower control arm,take it on through so that you can raise the rear up,and bring it on back to the rear anchor,now,look at where it should slip through with the rear adjusters about level.bring the torsion bar on back and engage the rear adjuster/anchor point.Should be it.

Jul 27, 2008 | 1983 Plymouth Gran Fury

1 Answer

Crossmember mount nuts


This is what I found it seems pretty good but I am having a hard time removing the broken piece from the rear holder.
Tools and Materials Required

Floor jack, 2-1/2 ton minimum, 4-ton preferred
2 or 4 jack stands, 2-ton minimum
Breaker bar, 1/2" drive
Ratchet, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
4" or 6" extension, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4" open end and box end wrenches/sockets
Scraper, pocket knife, etc. to clean torsion bar socket in A-arm
Bottle jack, wood blocks, etc.
2-lb. sledgehammer
3/8" or 1/2" diameter drift or hard steel punch or similar tool
Large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar to remove torsion bar socket end seal
Torsion bar tensioning tool
Penetrating oil, as required
Chassis grease, as required
High pressure thread lubricant, as required
Mineral spirits, solvent, etc. as required or desired
Gloves and eye protection
Procedure: NOTE: Always wear eye protection, especially when working under the coach. Be aware that when you loosen/remove any of the hardware or components, a lot of drek will fall out. Protect your eyes. And never, never, NEVER get under the coach unless it is supported securely with appropriate jack stands. Do not get under it while it is only lifted on a jack.

Raise and support vehicle enough to allow loosening of wheel lug nuts, loosen nuts.
With floor jack, raise vehicle at front crossmember until wheels are off the ground.
Support vehicle with jack stands under the front crossmember, and additionally under the frame as the situation warrants.
Remove wheel on whichever side is being worked on.
Apply generous amount of penetrating oil to the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Let set to thoroughly penetrate rusted bolts. Take a measurement of or carefully observe how far the adjusting bolts are threaded into the nuts. You will need these measurements to approximately reset the bolts for ride height adjustment later.
Apply penetrating oil to mid-frame crossmember attaching bolts. Let set.
Follow the torsion bar to the front, and locate the mounting socket in the lower A-arm. At the front of the hex shaped socket is a soft metal seal cap. You have to remove this cap to be able to slide the torsion bar forward enough to remove it from the rear mount. With the large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, pry out this cap. Try not to damage it too much. One or more of the side flanges of the cap may break off and it could get bent up while removing it. It doesn't seem to be too critical, and can be pounded back into shape sufficiently to be reused.
Apply a small amount of high pressure thread lubricant to the threads and end point of the torsion bar tensioning tool. Attach torsion bar tensioning tool squarely on the frame member. Be sure the locating pin is in the guide hole on the top side of the crossmember right over the "pork chop". If your tool does not have this locating pin, be sure to attach the tool squarely on the top of the crossmember.
Tighten any bolts/nuts on the tool to secure it. Turn the center bolt of the tool up into the dimple in the bottom of the pork chop arm. Continue tightening until the end of the pork chop arm is off the adjusting bolt.
Carefully remove the adjusting bolt. This could take some time and a lot of effort. Keep the penetrating oil handy as several applications may be necessary. If it strips or breaks, you'll have to cut it out or burn it out with a torch, and replace it with a new one.
When the adjusting bolt is out, remove the flat nut (rounded with slots on one side).
Turn the torsion bar tensioning tool center bolt counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the pork chop and bar. When the tension is completely off the bar, the tool and bar/pork chop assembly will basically fall apart.
Remove the tool.
Repeat 7 through 13 for the other side, except you don't have to remove the seal cap if you are not removing/replacing the torsion bar. You only have to loosen the bar to be able to move the crossmember.
On the rear side of the crossmember you can see the end of the torsion bar through a small hole in the crossmember. Insert the drift/punch into this hole and with the hammer pound the bar loose until it starts to slide forward. At this point you should probably be able to slide the bar forward enough by hand to clear the crossmember.
Loosen and remove the crossmember mount assembly on the side you're working on. Two bolts and nuts hold it in place. Slide the rubber mount away from the crossmember and remove it.
Loosen the bolts on the other side enough so that the crossmember can be moved. If you are removing/replacing both torsion bars, go ahead and remove the bolts and crossmember mount.
Using the bottle jack and necessary wood blocks, raise the crossmember enough so that the torsion bar can be slid under it. You will have to make sure the bar goes back into the hex socket on the front mount so it will slide through. The old grease in the socket will act like glue, so you may want to loosen it up with penetrating oil or mineral spirits or some other solvent. Slide the bar through and out of the socket. It weighs 25 or 30 pounds so don't let it fall on your head. Remove the bar and yourself from under the coach.
With a pocket knife or other small scraping tool, clean out the old grease from the front hex socket. Use a solvent to remove all the grease, if desired. Clean the old grease from the hex end of the torsion bar.
Reshape the socket seal cap if necessary. Test fit it into the socket, but don't pound it into place yet.
Examine the threads of the adjusting bolt and nut. If they look okay, clean them up with a wire brush. Dress them with a die and tap if you have these tools. Otherwise, the wire brush should be fine. Reassemble them with high pressure thread lube and run the bolt all the way through and back again. Clean the threads again, and re-lube them with thread lube. Leave them disassembled.
Apply a glob of clean chassis grease to the inside of the front hex socket. Be liberal and coat it well. Apply grease over the hex end of the torsion bar.
From under the coach, insert the torsion bar (either replacement or same one) into the front hex socket. Be sure you have the correct bar for the side. Each bar is marked on the end with either "L" or "R". Each one will fit on either side, but you don't want to mix them up. Verify before you assemble.
Installation is just the reverse of removal. Reassemble the bar/pork chop. Tap the bar from the front enough to set it 1/8" or so from the inner surface of the crossmember. Check it at the hole in the crossmember.
Be sure to tap the seal cap back into place.
Reinstall the crossmember mount, and tighten bolts. Be sure to tighten bolts on the side loosened.
Apply the torsion bar tool and raise the end of the pork chop far enough to be beyond where it was originally. Insert the adjusting nut and bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt up to about the same position you observed or measured prior to disassembly. Remove tensioning tool allowing the pork chop to contact adjusting bolt.
Remove jack stands, and reinstall front wheel(s).
Completely lower coach.
Check and adjust ride height as outlined in the Owner's Manual or service manual. Be sure tire pressures are correct and rear suspension is at the correct height ("Travel" position). Use the tensioning tool with the front wheels off the ground to raise or lower the pork chop. Never use the adjusting bolt -- it will strip. No matter which way you have to adjust the ride height, always relieve the tension on the adjusting bolt before trying to turn it.

Jun 23, 2008 | 2004 Ford F250

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