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Possible trapped in system. Bleed system, should have two small screw bleeders, one in front of left valve cover on pipe behind water pump and the other on coolant pipe outlet as you follow upper rad. hose towards engine. Engine cool, remove rad cap, open both bleed screws and fill rad until coolant flows free out both bleed ports. close both bleed screws, rad cap off, start engine and let idle until upper hose is hot to touch , shut off, let it cool down for 20 minutes, top up rad and install cap. restart car ,drive and check.
first off all if a/c gas presssure is low or no gas at all ( because of some reason you have already lost it) it acts exactly how you you describe. kicks in and out. but cant cool air inside. (first make dealer check it for leaks and let them fill it with proper yellow flourescent dye added gas)
limited het in cabin heater is another issue. if engine is warm and still not enough heat inside, we can say that you have a clogged cabin heater or air pocket is in hoses connected to cabin heater. you need to bleed cooler radiator inm front. you need to raise infront of car and bleed it with bleeding screw. after this check the heat again if still not enouh heat you may need to replace cabin heater.
if engine is not warm enough when you drive slow or let it idle. this means you have a broken thermostate or it is stuck half open.
(start the engine from cold) You may need to remove the rad cap and start the engine, if you have air in the system you will be able to see it escape as the engine warms-up. keep an eye on the water level and when it runs over and out of the rad turn the engine off then replace the rad cap (ensure the engine is cool enough to do so) If that hasnt solved the problem it could either be that the water pump isnt working, the head gasket has gone, or you have a major blockage in the cooling system.
the thermostat is under the throttle body
remove the air box and the throttle body
remove the top thermostat bolt
the bottom thermostat bolt remove 95% the hole is slotted
replace thr t-stat and reassemble
if you have anLX9 engine there will be air bleed scews
if you have an LZ9 it will not have air bleed screws
ok if you have bleed screws open both then fill the rad wait till a STEADY STREAM of coolant is coming out then close bleed screws
start the vehicle put your heater on HOT and VENT AND BLOWER ON HIGH
run vehicle till u get HOT NOT WARM AIR coming out of vents this will insure you have no air in the cooling system
now if you have no bleeders
then fill the rad then install the rad cap
start the engine run engine 2,000-2,500 RPM till the temp. gauge reads about normal about half way
then let the vehicle idle for 3 min
then shut the vehicle off and cool down so the rad cap can be removed
top up coolant
also make sure there is good hot air coming out of the heater if not repeat procedure there is still air in the cooling system
hope you found this helpfull
I agree with philip, i have not studied the electrical system. but to my best guess the electric fans are tied into the engine cooling system. when the engine is not requesting the fans to come on. then their is very little air passing threw the cooling package. When their is no cool air passing by the condenser this will not draw the heat out of the refrigerant leaving excess heat in the system and when the cab fan blows this is were the excess heat is getting dumped. then at higher speeds their is enough air passing threw the condenser and radiator to cool them both.
Leave rad cap off when starting from cold, turn heater(not defrost) on, and top up coolant in rad as you go, to about an inch or 2 from top of rad. Let engine run with cap off until your rad fan comes on & off 3 or 4 times. Every once in a while, rev engine slightly for 5-10 seconds to help bleed air out faster. After about 3 or 4th time fan comes on, you should be o.k. to put cap back on all the way & fill bottle to proper level. Heat should be there now. Give it a try & let me know how it goes.
has the cooling system been fully bled of all air pockets- this is done by allowing the car to fully warm up at idle with the rad cap off - allow to run upto temp until cooling fan cuts in - has the cooling cicuit got a seperate bleed screw - are you loosing coolant - or have you been - has the vehicle ever over heated ? curious - as you may have a faulty water pump - or even worse the head gasket may have blown causing cylinder head gases to laek into cooling system - i recommend a block test at you local garage - if its ok - get the water checked asap - andy
Run engine from cool, with rad cap off & heater on heat (not AC) and watch for circulation through rad when engine reaches normal operating temperature. Rev engine slightly from time to time for a couple of seconds, to increase flow & help bleed air out of system. Let it run for a while, and watch for increased flow in rad 2 or 3 times. Probably see air bubbles at same time.Hot coolant from engine comes in top, and back out bottom to engine after cooling in rad. The increased flow in rad ,indicates thermostat is opening & circulating cooler liquid back into engine. After 2 or 3 times put cap back on & fill return bottle only to line specified as warm/hot engine level.
Possible that you have a headgasket leak. When the vehicle is cold open the rad cap and make sure the coolant is at the top of the rad. With the rad cap off start the engine. leave the cap off and and warm up the engine till the thermostat opens and you should at that point need to add coolant if there was any air the the cooling system. with the cap still off and the rad topped up wait until are the air bubble out of the cooling system then replace the rad cap. If this solve your problem your are OK, but if the bubbles keep coming and the vehicle keeps over heating it is possible that you have pressure from a blown heat gasket entering in the cooling system thus have the system pressure checked.