Question about 1997 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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How do i fit new slave cylinder on clutch fiesta 1997

Losing fluid no pedal on clutch liquid coming from base of bell housing

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  • Ford Master
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If the slave is in the transmission trans would have to be removed in orther to replace.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

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Fiesta 1400 2 door clutch pedal pushed to floor and hydraulic fluid poured out. Coming from bell housing clutch to engine. Very big job to fix? Remove motor etc?


It is the slave cylinder inside the bell housing. These are notorious in going out and it looks to be quite entailed. I found a video on it but it only shows how to replace the slave cylinder AFTER the bell housing has been removed.

You will need an 8mm, long barrel, socket plus an extension( to keep from busting up the knuckles) to remove three bolts that holds the slave cylinder to the wall of the bell housing. Once the old one is removed, get some bearing grease and grease down the shaft. this will allow for an easier mount and get it ready to have the bell housing re-assembled.

Here's the link, though it the music is kinda creepy....

Hope this helps. How to Change Clutch Slave Cylinder On Ford Fiesta IB5 Gearbox

Aug 15, 2017 | Ford Fiesta Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What's wrong with my clutch if my 1998 escort won't go into gear. There is small resistance in my clutch pedal


Jamie, are you losing any fluid from the clutch master cylinder? By small resistance I presume you mean the pedal feels soft?

If you're losing fluid from the master cylinder you have an obvious leak somewhere and air is getting into the system.

Most leaks occur from the clutch SLAVE cylinder as it does all the work .. If there's no leak from the clutch slave cylinder, suspect the seals inside. It's like a bicycle pump ..the seal inside wears and it won't pump..

You may be able to get an overhaul kit. I'm in the UK .. but here's an Ebay link for a slave cylinder overhaul kit just to show you what it looks like:
FORD CORTINA MK2 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER REPAIR KIT SP2085
Here's a link to show you what the slave cylinder itself may look like (it may NOT be for your vehicle..)
CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER FORD FIESTA ESCORT
It's easier and quicker to fit a new slave cylinder than it is to strip down and replace seals with a kit. Be aware, after overhauling or replacing a slave cylinder you have to bleed it - remove the air.

The easiest way of doing this is to make sure the reservoir is fill of fluid, crawl underneath the car with a spanner/wrench, place a rag over the bleed point and get somebody to pump the pedal a couple of times while you undo then tighten the bleed nut.

If it's not the slave cylinder at fault- then it's the master cylinder. Master cylinders also have a 'piston' and rubber seals which wear/perish.
However, it's more than likely that it's the slave cylinder at fault

Mar 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Where would clutch fluid be going if all lines ok and fluid disappearing from resovoir


the main leak will at the slave cylinder past the piston cup
if the slave cylinder is out side the bell housing the simply replace it with new one and bleed out the air
if the slave cylinder is inside the bell housing then unfortunately the gear box has to come out to fit the new slave cylinder

Jun 27, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Miata clutch


With engine off, does the shifter get gears easily?
If so, it could be your hydraulic clutch. Check the fluid level on the clutch master cylinder's reservoir-on the firewall. If it is low, add brake fluid to it. If it was dry, you will probably have to bleed the hydraulic clutch down at the slave cylinder on the transmission bell housing.
When clutch pedal is pressed, the clutch master cylinder will force fluid down the line to the small slave cylinder. There, a small plunger is forced out (about an inch or less) from the slave cylinder, and pushes the clutch fork forward. The fork causes the clutch inside the bell housing to operate. Look for this movement of the slave cylinder pushing the clutch fork while someone presses down or pumps the clutch pedal. With the engine off, of course.

Jan 28, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have 94 Mazda mx-3 for the past month or so I've been having problems with my clutch and I notice a big wet stain on the floor mat and carpet I assume its the master cylinder or slave cylinder but I am...


It's leaking on the driver's side? That would be the master cylinder bolted onto the firewall. You will have to replace with a new or remanufactured clutch master cylinder. When the seals go out, the whole unit must be rebuilt. The store will give you a discount if you bring in your old one for exchange.
The clutch slave cylinder will be down on the transmission bell housing. Follow the small steel line from the master cylinder. It goes right to the slave cylinder.
Pretty easy to change out the master cylinder. Remove the steel line, unbolt unit from the firewall, then under the dash, there's a rod from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. Just undo the retaining clip or pin holding the rod to the pedal. When the new unit is installed and filled with fluid, then you get to learn how to bleed the hydraulic clutch at the slave cylinder-the fun never stops.

Oct 31, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I cannot bleed the clutch on my kia caranvil


First lets make sure we are on the same page here.Your saying you have no clutch resivioir and the system is feed from the brake master cylinder correct .Now the clutch has two clylinders the master witch atteches to the clutch pedal with the rod and it mounted on the fire wall . The slave cylinder is mounted between the bell houseing and the engine . And to replace this you would need to remove the transmission and actualy moves the pressure plate springs back when the pedal is depressed . Think of it like a light its eighter on or off and pushing the pedal down turns it off Normaly the clutch would be bleed at the slave cylinder there should be a bleeder fitting near the top of the bell hoseing. And should be bleed just a brake line no trick you just have to find the bleeder . Check for fluid at the clutch master on the pedal if you see any oil at all leaking you will never be able to keep it bleed sometimes there bad even when new .If oil can get out air is GETTING IN and it will constantly need to be rebleed. Any questions fell free to ask

Mar 19, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I just replaced a clutch, throw out berring, pressure plate, clutch master cylender on my 1997 saturn sl. Once all put back together my clutch pedal doesnt have any pressure. I can change gears if the car...


Have a look under the bonnet (hood) and next to or connected to the brake master cylinder you should see the clutch master cylinder.
  • Make sure that fluid is at the level it's required to be in the reservoir.
  • There will be a single metal pipe coming out of the cylinder and laid in the direction of where the clutch assembly is fitted.
  • The pipe will fit into the clutch slave cylinder mounted onto the bell housing (which is the housing covering the clutch assembly.
  • One end of the slave cylinder will have a rod, pushed by a piston inside the cylinder (which may be hidden from sight) and at the other end, the same pipe we have earlier spoken of is fitted.
  • At the highest point above where the pipe is screwed in there is a bleeding nipple.
  • Someone should sit in the car and push the pedal slowly down and then allowing it to return to fully up....Repeat this four or five times and then with the pedal held fully down loosen the bleeding nipple to allow the air contaminated fluid to be expelled....Repeat this procedure until the pedal has become firm.
  • Have another friend making sure the level of fluid doesn't drop below three quarters in the reservoir.
  • Make sure the nipple is closed tightly but not over tight....
  • And then happy driving
Regards Johngee10

Oct 22, 2010 | Saturn SL1 Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Clutch pedal goes to the floor, will not release the clutch


Hello Henry.
There are a couple of possibilities.
First of all, check the fluid level in the reservoir under the hood. It is mounted on the firewall opposite of the clutch pedal. Remove the cap and pull the rubber boot out to fill it (with brake fluid ONLY!).
If it is empty there is a leak. It is usually one of two places. The master cylinder or the slave cylinder.
The master is mounted to the firewall and has a piston in it that pushes fluid through a line to the slave cylinder that is mounted between the engine and transmission.
Look for signs of fluid leakage and that will generally tell you which one needs repair.
The master on the firewall will usually leak on the inside of the truck where the rod from the clutch pedal goes to it and the slave will usually drip out the front of the transmission.

Hope this helps you to repair your Ranger.

Oct 16, 2010 | 1997 Ford Ranger SuperCab

2 Answers

I have changed the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder, but still don't have pedal, we have bleed the lines and checked for leaks, no leaks were found. The new slave cylinder doesn't seem to be...


Thn the problem is the clutch master cylinder, it should build up pressure, ok try out this, remove the pipe which is going to the slave cylinder either from the clutch master cylinder or at the clutch slave cylinder and get someone to pump the pedal while you block the pipe and see if there is fluid thrown out with pressure.If there is pressure there thn fit back the pipe and refill the reserviour wth brake fluid and open the bleeding nipple at the slave cylinder let some fluid pour out and tighten it and thn pump the pedal and retry bleeding.
If there is no pressure at the pipe thn its the clutch master cylinder.
Hope this helps!

Dec 14, 2009 | 1997 Acura CL

1 Answer

Clutch slave cylinder


Yes, it is located on the passenger's side of the car at the front lower side of the transmission.
You will need the following tools: 12mm and 14mm socket. The slave cylinder could be bolted to the bell housing using either size bolt head.
A 14mm and 17mm open end wrench. The hose to the slave cylinder could be found with either size.
a 10mm combination wrench for the bleeder screw. A small set of vice grip pliers.
Removal and installation instructions for the slave cylinder:
1.Take the small set of vice grip pliers and adjust them to where they just barely close down on the slave cylinder hose. Just enough to pinch off the flow of fluid but not damage the hose.
2. Using the 14mm or 17mm open ended wrench, break the hose loose from the slave cylinder, turning it in a counter clockwise direction. Make sure you have the wrench squarely on the fitting to avoid rounding it off.
3. using either the 12 or 14mm socket, remove the two bolts which hold the slave cylinder to the bell housing.
4. At this point with the slave cylinder lose, have the replacement part near by, make sure you have the copper crush ring with it.
5. Holding the hose, rotate the slave cylinder counter clockwise, spinning it off the hose.
The replacement part should have a small metal rod and rubber cover which retains it to the slave cylinder. Make sure to remove the old copper crush ring and put the new one on the end of the hose. If the part did not come with one, reuse the old one. Spin the new part on the hose and place it back on the bell housing, making sure that the rod fits into the steel linkage which projects out from inside the transmission. There is a shallow hole which the rod should fit in. Holding the part in place, don't try to tighten the hose yet, screw both bolts in by hand and tighten them. Make sure you have them both in before you go tightening anything.
6. Tighten the hose, a good snug pull is all that is needed. you don't have to crank down on the line.
Now you can remove the pliers.
7. At this point you will need the assistance of another person. Have them sit in the car, you top off the clutch master cylinder (the one which has just one resevoir) with DOT 3 brake fluid. See if you can find a small container to catch the fluid in, or just use an oil drain pan. With you stationed under the car with the 10mm wrench on the bleeder screw ready to open it up in a counter clockwise direction, have your friend ready to pump the clutch pedal.
READY?
HAVE THEM PUMP THE PEDAL AND TELL THEM TO "HOLD IT" They should keep the pedal on the floor while you open the bleeder screw up.
Some fluid and air may or may not come out the first time you open the bleeder. Close it and tell them to pump the pedal again. They need to pump the pedal at least 5 times and them tell them to "Hold It" again, holding it to the floor. Don't open the bleeder until they have the pedal to the floor.
Open the bleeder and then close it. Repeat the procedure until you see just fluid and no air coming out.. After the first three times you bleed it, check the clutch master fluid level again. Avoid running the reservoir empty other wise you will be bleeding the cluch for quite a while.
Brake fluid will attack paint so if you spill any on the paint, pour water on it and it will neutralize it. DO NOT GET WATER IN YOUR BRAKE FLUID!!!!
If everything goes well, by the fourth or fifth time you have had them pumped the pedal, you will notice the slave cylinder is pushing the release arm and the person in the car should be feeling a normal clutch pedal along with the "pedal free play" being roughly 1/2 " from the top.
I hope I not only answered your question, but have supplied you all the necessary information should you be up to the task of changing it.

Apr 23, 2009 | 1988 Nissan 300ZX

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