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Re: leaking oil at spline shaft slip yoke at rear of...
There is a long bush type bearing in this tunnel just at the end were the seal fits in it can were out and let the prop shaft flap about, this in turn rips the seal to bits,,,also the yoke has a polished part on the end that go's over the spline into the end of the gear box tunnel the seal can were a groov into this part, and no amount of new seals will stop it leaking them as the new seal runs in this worn out groov, again ripping it to bits,,,test the long bush type bearing by holding the prop shaft yoke and pushing it up and to the side, if it moves about replace the bush in the end of the tunnel as well,, its a push in fit! with a big hammer!!
if the yoke has a groov in it you need a new prop as all prop shafts are balanced so you can just fit a new yoke it could throw the car up in the air when your driving it down the free way,,,,by shaking it apart
i hope this is of help to you
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it is hard to diagnose with so many listed faults
first up slipping when hot indicates a weak pressure plate tension but the reasons o slipping when hot may start at a bad clutch master cylinder not fully allowing the brake fluid back to the reservoir ( blocked compensating port)
that creates a catch 22 situation where the pressure place is not fully engaged and so it slips marginally and that builds up friction heat which in tern cause what is called brake fade . In other words the friction surface ( clutch plate facing) cannot absorb any more heat and so it slips
moving on , the slippage can be from excessive oil on the linings but if that is the case it will slip or grab ( shudder) on take off
The oil will most likely be from from a front input shaft seal and that may be from failing oil seal or overfull transmission or blocked breather for the transmission
seal generally will produce a oil mist in the bell housing after time but adding to your statement of hard to get/change gears I suspect that the oil leak could be from a failing front shaft bearing of the transmission not allowing the seal to work properly
To sum up , the transmission will have to come out and the clutch kit and throwout bearing replaced
from the slippage I would recommend that the flywheel clutch face be machine to remove high hot spots and that combination will give a smooth clutch operation at this point if there are signs of a rear main seal leaking , replace it before the flywheel is refitted
remove the extension housing that the throw bearing slides on and the seal is in that housing
that front bearing can be checked also and if in doubt , overhaul the bearings in the transmission
(visible damage to the bearing cage will be evident here indicating a failing bearing)
when finished replace the clutch master cylinder if more than 5 years old since replacement
sorry not good news and it will amount to a costly exercise but there are no short cuts to a good reliable jib
Chockblock front wheels to prevent truck rolling, and jack vehicle up and place a jackstand under frame to prevent vehicle falling. Remove driveshaft, seal is now visible to be pried out for new one to be lightly tapped into place with a rubber mallet or hammer, along with a wooden block, taking care to keep new seal straight while replacing. replace driveshaft and check fluid level, lower vehicle and remove chockblocks.
This is not easy....You will need air tools ,spray penetrate,seal remover,hammer,and Jack stands..Seal installation tool,.All proper tools..safety glasses.correct seal replacement.,new lock nut...Set park brake,block rear wheels,raise vehicle front and safely place jack stands under each side of lower control arms..Spray lube front drive shaft mounting hardware and lock nut that holds Yoke on front diff..Let it set to penetrate..put vehicle in neutral..Mark shaft to yoke location and direction perfectly because it has to be installed in perfect timing exactly how it was removed..,Remove drive shaft..Remove lock nut and yoke from front diff...You will have to hold yoke while removing lock nut because it will spin..PROTECT HANDS..( These can be VERY DIFFICULT to remove..Sometimes they have to be heated..You will need a yoke removal tool if it doesn't tap off with hammer...Mark exactly the yoke to spline location before removal..You can take close up photos however Mark it also to be sure...If you re-install it wrong it will vibrate terribly..Once yoke is removed You can remove seal.Make sure the new seal is correct...CAREFULLY..DO NOT DAMAGE SPLINES WHILE REMOVING..Sometimes even the perfect seal remover will damage splines..So cover it to protect spline threads..Clean all areas once seal is removed..Make sure nothing is pitted or damaged...Install new seal with installation tool..Lightly,perfectly tap it flush with diff..You can use old seal to install new seal if you don't have installation tool But only a pro should do that...Once in place Line drive shaft yoke with your marks and tap it on ..Use NEW LOCKNUT AND TORQUE IT TO SPEC..Install drive shaft as marked..torque to spec..Lower truck and check fluid..Complete..
Leaks on the rear differentual can usually occur at 3 places the axle housing,or at the axel shaft oil seals.If it were to be the axel housing gasket it would be visible around the housing cover.Also inspect the axel housing slip yoke seal this will also be visible.The next seals you want to check would be the axel shaft seals.In order to get to these seals you will have pull the tires and drums.Once you have them off take a flashlight and look behind the axel end for any oil leaking.Those would be the only places it would leak oil.
A continental is a front wheel drive car since 89. You must mean a town car. The pinion shaft seal is tricky because of a bearing preload issue that can be catastrofic if you get it wrong. I would recomend seeking the skills of a pro.
the trans case is not under a pressure, the fluid is a free flow oiler that gets slung around by chain and gears. are you sure it was the right seal ? DIdnt damage it on install !!? did you over fill the case ? Check rear spline on case and make sure it is not sloppy movement back and forth, up and down. if it is then seal is getting pushed all over and oil seaps past. but you would have a vibration while driving that you would notice. is ther a groove on rear slip yoke that is riding on seal groove. after reading your question again, are you talking about the drive shaft going into the transfercase or the main trans/ transfercase mating area? What is a rear drive live? rear driveline!! as in driveshaft?
I searched under 1997 lincoln continental and found this:
Driveshaft and U-Joints REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Town Car and Mark VII-VIII
Fig. 1: The bolts retaining the rear driveshaft yoke-to-differential flange require a 12mm, 12 point wrench or socket to loosen them
Fig. 2: Remove the bolts retaining the rear driveshaft yoke-to-differential flange
Fig. 3: Separate the driveshaft from the axle flange and . . .
Fig. 4: . . . disengage the driveshaft from the transmission output shaft
Fig. 5: Insert a plug onto the splines of the transmission output shaft to prevent fluid from leaking out
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Mark the position of the driveshaft yoke on the axle companion flange so they can be reassembled in the same way to maintain balance.
Remove the flange bolts and disconnect the driveshaft from the axle companion flange.
Allow the rear of the driveshaft to drop down slightly.
Pull the driveshaft and slip yoke rearward until the yoke just clears the transmission extension housing seal. Mark the position of the slip yoke in relation to the transmission output shaft, then remove the driveshaft.
Plug the transmission to prevent fluid leakage.
Lubricate the yoke splines with suitable grease.
Remove the plug from the transmission and inspect the extension housing seal; replace if necessary.
Align the slip yoke and output shaft with the marks made at removal and install the yoke into the transmission extension housing. Be careful not to bottom the slip yoke hard against the transmission seal.
Rotate the axle flange, as necessary, to align the marks made during removal.
Install the driveshaft yoke to the axle flange. Install the bolts and tighten to 71–95 ft. lbs. (95–130 Nm).
Vibrations of this nature are usually associated with the Drive shafts, Universal Joints, Center Support Bearing and Intermediate Spline immediately behind the Center Support. Additionally, the Sleeve Bearing in the Transmission and the Slip Yoke could also be worn. My honest opinion would be the Center Support Bearing and the Spline and Slip Yoke directly to the Rear of the Center Support. The Slip Yoke is equipped with a Grease Fitting and probably has never been Greased. The Rear Drive Shaft Section has the Male Spline and it could very well be badly worn if it hasn't been greased. Drive Shafts also have Balancing Weights which are prone to Rusting Off in our northern states where Salt is used on the roads in the Winter. Examine all drive shaft sections, U-Joints and Slip Yokes for slop and damage. This is best done on a hoist.
If this is NOT the Problem, have Front and Rear Suspension and ALL Tires checked. Many times these vibrations are caused by Wheel Bearings, Tires or worn Suspension Components.