Question about 2004 Dodge Ram 2500

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Can not successfully bleed my brakes. New MC, lines, calipers & wheel cylinders?

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  • Dodge Master
  • 2,030 Answers

If your vehicle has ABS, the nyou need a scan tool that will allow you to actuate the ABS system and purge the ait from the ABS actuators.

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

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Cant bleed my brakes on ford escape no fluid will come out of the master cylinder


Are you able to bleed the brake from the caliper you changed? If you can you may have a plugged bleeder at the master cylinder or the new one did not get drilled all the way through so the fluid comes out. Does the truck have ABS brakes? I am assuming so but not sure, if so you may have to reposition the valve in the line that cuts off the leak and shifts the fluid to the rear wheels in this case, it is in the lines, but at that I would think you still should be able to bleed the master cylinder. You may need to bleed all of the wheels before you can bleed the master.

Nov 09, 2015 | 2004 Ford Escape

1 Answer

Front brake line replacement


I assume you want to replace the steel lines, but while you are at it check the rubber lines as well. I try to use rubber caps to plug the lines going to the master cylinder if possible, in order to keep some fluid in the MC. This makes bleeding the system much easier, especially if your car has ABS. Disconnect the line closest to the MC which you do not intend to replace, or from the MC itself, and quickly plug the line to the MC. Use the removed line to fashion a replacement by bending the new line to match the old one. Using a tubing bender makes this fairly simple. If you must cut the new line to length, you must use proper tools to create a new "double flare" end. Once all is installed, connect the MC insuring it is full of fluid. Start bleeding the wheel furthest from the MC first, keeping an eye on the fluid level in the MC to make sure no air enters the system. Repeat on other wheel. Go back to first wheel and do again just to be sure, same with second. Tighten all bleed screws, top up fluid, check feel of brake pedal and test drive.

May 27, 2015 | 2003 Mitsubishi Galant

1 Answer

Rear brakes wont bleed


It is important to fully "bench bleed" the Master cylinder as air can get trapped in the body of the cylinder. DO not block off the ports and bleed , attach 4 bleeding adapters & hoses to the MC and bench bleed till you get no air. the you can install & bleed R/R wheel , then L/R wheel , then R/F wheel , finishing with the L/F wheel. when bleeding don't pump the pedal as that will aerate the fluid & make it harder.

Feb 16, 2015 | 2007 Chevrolet Chevrolet Malibu LS

1 Answer

Front brakes calipers locking up ,new calipers ,new lines , new mc, whats left?


only one side.
until i bleed, what does that mean.? (we all know how to bleed all 5 ways) but why do you say that.
oddly unbleed brakes never lock, due to AIR in the system.
so only bled brakes lock, or work prefect.

this is hydralics 101.
if any caliper locks, it must Be blockage
so does it stay locked for at least 5min>? unsaid DURATION
if yes, this is childs play.
you have 1 person try to turn tire, its locked, and you take your
spanner to THAT line at the MC and CRACK it open
does it unlock, yes, mc bad, no then the flex hose is bad inside.
dang that was easy huh?
if the mc, locks that TOO is easy
the piston is inside is not retracting 100%
all brakes must back flow, or LOCK.
the piston has a port there.
so the person that put the MC on car did not read the FSM
that clearly stated how to adjust the push rod gap from
brake pedal to MC rear piston.
for sure.
see this drawing.
if the piston dont retract then it can not back flow and will LOCK.

http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/master-brake3.jpg




Mar 23, 2014 | 1985 Jeep CJ7

8 Answers

Changed calipers rotrs pads still no brake presure wont pump up to bleed air out of lines could master cylinder or booster be bad


Booster is okay, you have to bench bleed the MC, first. So, since it is installed, bleed it with a kit from the parts store, little plastic hoses screw in to the brake hose fittings, and put other end under fluid in reservoir. pump slowly, especially wait at end of release, for fluid to refill piston chamber....pump until no bubbles...

FROM THIS POINT you must not allow fluid in reservoir to go low, or start all over again....

Now bleed the brakes and you will eventually get pressure.

Mar 01, 2011 | 1998 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

3 Answers

Just replaced master cylinder on 1990 aerostar and bled the brakes, still the pedal goes to floor and i have no brakes


Did you bench bleed the master cyl. before installing it? then when you installed the new master, did you bleed all 4 points? If yes, then check all for points for leaking caliper/s and leaking wheel cylinder/s. If the van has ABS, check the valve body for a bleeder screw and see if air bleeds out of it. If you've checked everything twice and did everything right then your new master cyl. may be defective.

Apr 29, 2009 | 1986 Ford F 250

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