Question about 1999 Dodge Intrepid

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How difficult is it to install rod and main bearings in a 99 intrepid with a 2.7? Will the oil pan come off without pulling the engine out? The engine has a loud knock and i think its a rod bearing.

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In car service is not an option......a rebuild or a used engine are your only options or a new car......

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

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Can you replace main bearings without removing engine citroen c4 grand picasso 1.6 diesel 2007


You cannot replace the main bearings without removing the engine. only the rod bearings are replaceable if the oil pan will clear chassis for access to crank shaft. Why do you need main bearings on a 2007, these bearings should be good for 500,000 miles. what happened? (run without oil?)

Mar 14, 2017 | Citroen Cars & Trucks

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1999 ford 5.4 triton motor,can you repair a rod knocking without pulling engine


drop the oil pan & replace all the ( connecting rod bearings ) which wear out way more than main bearings. also replace the main bearings if bad. if the bearings are still good use them because of the timming chain is heck to get back to top dead center. hope this helps you out

Jun 22, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Is it worth it to fix a 99 F250 SD that has a rear main seal blown on the engine?


Until the engine is sealed you will not know how much oil is burned. Price the parts. Difference too in whether its a 4x4 or easy access 2 wheel drive.

Check rear seal type to see if it can be changed by pulling trans and flywheel. If stick shift, probably good idea to replace clutch disc to verify not oil soaked. If automatic, oil is no consequence.

Kind of matters how much is wrong. With trans out, some rear engine seals can be replaced without removing oil pan. But if bearings are bad, on 2 wheel drive you may be able to squeeze off oil pan and check bottom of bearings.

You can do poor man's bearing job with plastic-gage. Rod bearings can probable be switched 100%. Main bearings lower cap can be serviced with upper 1/2 left in place. Not ideal, but can save from pulling motor.

Value depends on whether your Labor is free. You have a 14 Year ol truck. Depends on what you already replaced to maintain it or what else it will need. You could need rings after working on the bottom end even with a poor man's bearing job. Plastic Gage can tell you the size you need for each bearing. Then keep track and only buy individual sizes.

If you could find a wrecked truck with a good engine, places like carparts.com have a good multilist. Rule of thumb is different for each person. I would look hard at spending 1/2 of what truck is worth to fix it, knowing other things are wrong.

Mar 19, 2013 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2002 Wrangler Sport. 4.0 My oil pressure gauge hit rock bottom, the engine made soon clanking sounds and died. I pulled the valve cover but dont see any bent rods. What else should I be looking for...


The main bearings and connecting rod bearings. The cam bearings. The wrist pins. These are the first bearings that get oil from the oil pump. When you take the oil pan off to replace the pump pull one of the rod caps and check for scaring and color change.

Feb 15, 2011 | 2002 Jeep Wrangler

2 Answers

I have a 2002 ram 1500 with 4.7 magnum truck


There are several reasons why you would hear a loud knock from the engine, and the knock will usually be either in the top end or in the lower or bottom end of the engine.

The first thing that should be done is to drain the engine oil, and then pour the oil filter into a pan where you can see it, and if there is a lot of metal flakes, or a fine cloud of brass floating in the engine oil, you will not want to waste the time or the money trying to repair that engine by dropping the oil pan and replacing the piston rod bearings, it will only be a very temporary patch at best, that is if the patch even lasts for a day.

If you do find metal flakes in the engine oil and oil filter, the piston rod bearings will not be the only bearings in the engine that will need to be replaced, and the crankshaft main bearings can only be replaced by removing the engine and placing it upside-down on a good engine stand. The biggest problem would be that even if you did successfully replace the piston rod and crankshaft main bearings, it would only take one piece of metal flake that was left over in the engine block to find its way to one of your new bearings and then it will take no time at all before that engine will be right back where you started, and that is how important just the cleaning process is in repairing or replacing internal engine components.

If you do not find any metal in the engine oil or oil filter, then you should attempt to find the actual cause of the knock before you decide how to repair the engine, and you will have to remove the engine oil pan to inspect the rod bearings, and if you do remove the engine oil pan make sure that when you inspect the rod bearings that you only do so one at a time because you can not mix up the rod caps, and be very sure that when you remove a rod cap that you do replace it the same way that it came off, and if you turn around the rod cap and install it the wrong way or scratch the crankshaft bearing surface the rod bearing will fail.

If you can hear the knocking louder from under the vehicle then the most likely causes for a lower end engine knock are a damaged piston, worn out piston rod bearings, a broken piston rod, a broken flex-plate, and sometimes loose torque converter to flex-plate bolts, and the only parts that you can really check out without opening up the engine would be a broken flex-plate, or for any loose torque converter to flex-plate bolts.

If you can hear the knocking more from the top of the engine, then the most likely causes for an upper engine knock would be a faulty lifter, or broken rocker arm, or a broken valve spring allowing the valve to contact the piston, and it will require the removal of the valve covers and possibly the intake manifold to inspect for the problem.

If you have any doubts then it would be a good idea to consider a good used engine that you can hear run before you buy it, or a rebuilt engine for that vehicle.

I hope that this information will help you out and save you some time and a lot of money.

Jun 07, 2010 | 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck 2WD

1 Answer

I got a 99 chevy suburban that started knocking hard so i pulled the oil pan the pump is worn out and there are metal shavings n the oil how do get the rods out through the pan there is a shield in my way


your goign to have to rebuild the engine, if there is metal flake in the oil it has taken the cam rings and rod bearings and pistons, you can get a rebuild kit from www.jcwhitney for $265.00 for engine kit with bearings new pump new lifters cam piston rings and all other parts you will be needed, you will have to bore out engine and replace cam bearings and lifters.

Apr 14, 2010 | Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

99 dodge intrepid specs


Inner main bearing cap bolts:
Torque to 15 ft-lbs, then rotate an additional 1/4 turn

Outer main (windage tray) bearing cap bolts:
Torque to 20 ft-lbs, then rotate an additional 1/4 turn

Main bearing cap cross bolts:
Torque to 250 in-lbs or 20.83 ft-lbs

Connecting road bearing cap nuts:
Torque to 20 ft-lbs, then rotate an additional 1/4 turn

Apr 21, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

How can i replace the mian bearings and rod bearings without taking out the whole engin?


if you pull the oil pan off and take the crankshaft off you will have access to both the rod bearings and main bearings. get yourself some plasta gauge for reassembly to make sure your clearances are correct. if you need any other help shoot me a message or email and ill be glad to help

Mar 10, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Jeep cherokee with a 4.0 6 cyl when a start the motor cold it sounds like a diesel engine, lots of clanking. last a couple of seconds then goes away. replaced oil pump. no help there.


Lots of clanking when first started sounds like a worn rod bearing. Check the engine compartment and rev engine to listen for knocking. It will get progressively worse as time goes by. Nothing to do except buy/install new crankshaft kit from autozone, about $300+.

In the mean time, just change oil and put in some oil additive to lessen the knocking. High speeds will accelerate the wear of the rod bearing. The rod bearing is installed inside of the piston rod. This bearing goes around the crankshaft. It has very tight tolerances down to the thousands of an inch. When it gets worn, metal will flake off of the soft bearing material and contaminate your oil more. If you catch it early enough, you can replace the bearing without too much trouble. Here is what you need to do.

Find the bad bearing. If you hear the knocking with the engine on and under the hood, disconnect a sparkplug. If the knocking goes away, that is the bad bearing. Do this disconnecting/reconnecting until you identify the bad bearings. Now disconnect battery. Next loosen drive belt- done from steering pump. Loosen 2-13mm bolts on back, one on top and one on bracket on bottom. On bottom right-hand side of pump will be a long adjusting bolt. Loosen turn this bolt counter clockwise to loosen drive belt. Now jack vehicle from the frame, vehicle will raise but tires will remain on ground. keep going as high as your jack will go. Install jack stands on frame. This extends your suspension and keep body raised. Drain oil, remove steering damper. It's the shock absorber looking thing connected to your tie rods/center link. The easiest way to remove the oil pan is to get a 3/8 inch socket adapter for a cordless drill. The bolts will come out in a hurry if you do this. Keep track of where the double sided bolts are, they secure the fuel line brackets. After all are removed, wiggle, tug, and pull pan out. Now you will see the large main caps and the rod caps. The mains are bolted to the block and the rods will rotate up and down with the spinning of the crankshaft. Spin the crankshaft to see. Each bearing cap needs to be marked. Use a center punch and hammer to mark from front to rear. 1 mark for rod cap 1 and so forth. You should end up with 6 marks on rod cap #6. Do the marking on the front side of the cap so you know how it fits back. Remove the rod caps that corresponded to the bad bearing identified earlier. Remove nut on cap. Wiggle cap back and forth until it comes loose. It will eventually come out. Inside the cap, you will see the bearing. It is basically a liner for the cap that rides on the crankshaft. there is one on the top of the rod too. Remove it by pushing rod up into cylinder and pulling it out with your hand. Ensure you remember the orientation of the bearings. One side has a notch, the other has a key that fits into a hole on the rod. Now you have the bearing in hand, check for scoring, or wearing on the face. Check the web for a nice color picture. Feel the crankshaft bearing area with your finger nail. It should be smooth and not ridged. Purchase some plastigage along with a standard .000 bearing. Clean rod surface, install new bearing and plastigage. Tighten to torque. Remove cap and measure plastigage for your oil clearance. Now you can purchase the correct bearing to match your oil clearance. If you don't have a repair manual, now's a good time to get it. It has bearing tolerances for you to get the correct bearing. After you have the correct bearings, use oil additive to grease up the new bearing/crank surfaces. Put everything back together, put some quality magnets inside of your oil pan near the drain hole and cross your fingers.

Nov 20, 2008 | Jeep Cherokee Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

1998 dodge intrepid 3.2L


Most likely, you'll need to raise the engine a bit to get the oil pan to clear the crossmember and the crank throws. This is not as hard as it sounds, but you will need a lifting bar to raise the engine and remove the bolts from the engine mounts. I would get a manual for this car as they are not the most intuitive to work on.

Aug 03, 2008 | 1998 Dodge Intrepid

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