Question about 1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT

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Rebuilt engine. when started again car ticks. timing marks aligned correctly, timing light shows 20 deg. what gives?

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Most likely the hydraulic valve lifters, notoriously noisy in Mitsubishi engines. My 2007 Galant Ralliart Mivec 3.8 V6 with less than 15000 miles ticks also as did my 1989 Gallant and 1997 Eclipse.

Posted on Nov 23, 2009

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If the timing is still of even with the correct timing on the timing belt, I would check the crankshaft and camshaft sensors for proper operation.

Posted on Jan 12, 2010

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MItsu has an upgraded lifter that will fix the problem. About $200 a set if I remember correctly.

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

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Do I need to remve pully on crankshaft, How do Itime engine


No, you don't need to remove the pully.

Here's how you set the timing:

You will need a timing light and a 1/2 inch or 13mm wrench.

1. Take a rag and clean the timing marks on the pulley and the timing cover. If you have any white out type correction fluid, you can also paint the marks white, to make them easier to see.

2. Start the engine and run until it is warm... about 5 minutes (the upper radiator hose will be warm).

3. Shut off the engine and find the timing connector, a grey plastic plug in the wiring harness near the distributor. Unplug the timing connector.

4. Loosen (but do not remove) the nut holding the distributor to the engine.

5. Connect your timing light. The magnetic pickup goes on the number 1 plug wire (number one is the front cylinder in your engine) and the other two leads connect to the battery, red on positive, black on negative.

6. Start the engine and point the timing light at the timing marks on the timing cover. You should be able to see the mark on the pulley as well. Gently rotate the distributor until the timing mark on the pully aligns with the 10 degree BTDC (before top dead center) mark. You might want to scribe a mark on your distributor before you start so that if you accidentally move the distributor too far and the engine dies, you can put it back where it was in order to restart the engine.

Once you have the timing set to 10 deg BTDC, shut the engine off, retighten the distributor nut and reconnect the timing connector.

Nov 22, 2011 | 1988 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

3.5l dohc 95 model idles but wont rev chokes and splutters engine recently rebuilt


Sounds like the timing is off or something wasn't synch'd up correctly during the rebuild. Check the timing and make sure the vacuum lines are connected correctly, especially the vacuum advance which advances your timing when the engine RPM's are increased. Start your timing at 5 degrees before top dead center, the 5 mark on your timing marks, this is the most common baseline setting for timing. If you have to set it advanced beyond 10 degree or retarded beyond 0 then your timing chain was not aligned correctly between the Pistons and the Valves or cam shaft.

Nov 11, 2010 | 1995 Mitsubishi Montero

1 Answer

Rebuilt my 454 engine, installed distributor with rotor at 0 TDC on #1 cylinder. Engine ran fine but ses light was on. Code was P1345-- disagreement between cam sensor and crank sensor. Scanner showed...


The ignition timing is not adjusted with a timing light or with the engine running, and to set the ignition timing follow these procedures.

There is a mark or notch on the distributor housing that the rotor should be pointing to when the engine is on TDC. (Top Dead Center) This "Static" timing is all that matters and the computer will be able to control the timing as long as the ignition rotor is in that position when the engine is at TDC.

1. Place the engine at top dead center.

2. Look under the distributor cap and find where the number one terminal runs under the distributor cap, and where that position on the distributor cap corresponds with the distributor housing, and it should match up to a mark or a notch on the distributor housing (usually has a #6 for 6 cylinder engines or a #8 for 8 cylinder engines) indicating the number one TDC alignment position.

3. With the engine on top dead center the ignition rotor should be pointing to the number one TDC alignment mark or notch that is on the distributor housing, if it is not then loosen up the distributor and turn the distributor until the ignition rotor is pointing to and aligned with the TDC alignment mark or notch on the distributor housing and then tighten down the distributor, the engine should now be "Static" timed. (The more precise that you are aligning the TDC alignment mark with the ignition rotor the better the engine will run, and it will be less likely that there will be a camshaft to crankshaft correlation problem)

If the distributor can not be turned enough to align the ignition rotor with the number one TDC alignment mark on the distributor housing, or the distributor does not set properly and will not allow the installation of the spark plug wires then the distributor is not installed correctly and is most likely a tooth off and it will need to be re-installed correctly. (The distributor should set like it is shown in the firing order diagram when it is properly installed)

Here is a firing order diagram to also help assist you.




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Oct 25, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet K2500

1 Answer

1999 Ford Expedition 5.4L Timing chain setup


.
  1. Remove the engine front cover. For additional information, refer to Engine Front Cover in this section.
  1. Remove the crankshaft sensor ring from the crankshaft.
    a0044041.gif
  1. Rotate the crankshaft until the timing mark on the RH camshaft sprocket is approximately at the 11 o'clock position and the timing mark on the LH camshaft sprocket is approximately at the 12 o'clock position.
    a0049532.gif
  1. Using the special tool, position the crankshaft as shown.
    a0041102.gif
  1. Install the special tool.
    aa5423a.gif
  1. NOTE: LH shown; RH similar.
    Remove the two bolts, the timing chain tensioner and tensioner arm.
    aa5952a.gif
  1. Remove the LH and RH timing chains and the crankshaft sprockets.
    • Remove the special tool from the crankshaft.
    • Remove the timing chains from the camshaft sprockets.
    • Remove the right and left timing chains and the crankshaft sprocket from the crankshaft.
    a0029151.gif
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: The bolts are different lengths and must be returned to their original location.
    NOTE: LH shown; RH similar.
    Remove the bolts and the timing chain guides.
    a0044040.gif
Installation
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Timing chain procedures must be followed exactly or damage to valves and pistons will result.
    ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Do not compress the ratchet assembly. This will damage the ratchet assembly.
    Compress the tensioner plunger, using an edge of a vise.
    da0605a.gif
  1. Using a small screwdriver or pick, push back and hold the ratchet mechanism.
    da0606a.gif
  1. While holding the ratchet mechanism, push the ratchet arm back into the tensioner housing.
    da0607a.gif
  1. Install a paper clip into the hole in the tensioner housing to hold the ratchet assembly and plunger in during installation.
    a26917a.gif
  1. Remove the tensioner from the vise.
  1. NOTE: There are 61 links in the timing chain.
    If the copper links are not visible, mark two links on one end and one link on the other end, and use as timing marks.
    a0038720.gif
  1. Install the timing chain guides.
    a0044063.gif
  1. Using the special tool, verify correct crankshaft position.
    • Remove the special tool.
    a0041102.gif
  1. NOTE: Crankshaft sprockets are identical. They can only be installed one way. Refer to the following illustration for correct crankshaft sprocket installation.
    If removed, install LH and RH crankshaft sprockets.
    a14824b.gif
  1. Install the LH timing chain onto the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the one copper (marked) link on the timing chain with the slot on the crankshaft sprocket.
    a0041197.gif
  1. Position the LH timing chain on the camshaft sprocket with the two copper (marked) chain links and the camshaft sprocket timing mark aligned.
    a0049191.gif
  1. Position the RH (outer) timing chain on the crankshaft sprocket, aligning the copper (marked) link with the timing mark on the sprocket.
    a0041196.gif
  1. Position the RH timing chain on the camshaft sprocket. Make sure the two copper (marked) links align with the camshaft sprocket timing mark.
    a0041104.gif
  1. NOTE: LH shown; RH similar.
    Position the tensioner arms and tensioners, and install the bolts.
    aa5952a.gif
  1. Remove the tensioner retaining clip.
    a26273a.gif
  1. As a post-check, verify correct alignment of all timing marks.
    a0041106.gif
  1. Remove the special tool.
    aa5423a.gif
  1. Position the crankshaft sensor ring on the crankshaft.
    a0044041.gif
  1. Install the engine front cover. For additional information, refer to Engine Front Cover in this section.


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Apr 03, 2010 | 1999 Ford Expedition

2 Answers

What should the timing be at on a 1984 buick 231 3.8 engine, recently rebuilt


Assuming the engine was re-assembled correctly with the all timing marks properly aligned, and the number 1 piston at top dead center in relation to the timing marks on the crankshaft, camshaft, and counterbalncing shaft, the computer sets the timing.
These are great engines, but they can be fun to work on, if you know what I mean.

Feb 17, 2010 | 1984 Buick LeSabre

2 Answers

How to set the timing on a ford ltd 1982


POINT TYPE IGNITION SYSTEMS
  1. Locate the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and the front of the engine.
  2. If they appear dirty, clean the timing marks with a wire brush. Once clean, apply white paint to the marks to make them more visible.
  3. Attach a dwell meter/tachometer to the engine.
  4. Attach a timing light according to the tool manufacturer's instructions.
  5. Unfasten the distributor vacuum line at the distributor and plug the vacuum line. A small bolt, center punch, golf-tee, or similar object is satisfactory for a plug.
  6. Check to make sure that all of the wires, whether disconnected or attached to the timing light or tachometer, clear the fan and belts.
  7. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
  8. Adjust the idle to the correct setting, if needed.
  9. Aim the timing light at the timing marks and depress the trigger on the light. If the marks on the pulley and the engine are aligned when the light flashes, the timing is correct. Turn OFF the engine, then remove the tachometer and the timing light. If the marks are not in alignment, proceed with the following steps.
  10. Loosen the distributor lockbolt (a special distributor wrench is available) just enough so that the distributor can be turned with effort.
  11. With the timing light aimed at the pulley and the marks on the engine, turn the distributor in the direction of rotor rotation to ****** the spark, and in the opposite direction of rotor rotation to the advance spark. Align the marks on the pulley and the engine using the flashes of the timing light.
  12. When the marks are aligned, tighten the distributor lockbolt and recheck the timing to make sure that the distributor did not move when you tightened the lockbolt.
  13. After timing has been set, tighten the distributor hold-down bolt to 17–25 ft. lbs. (23–34 Nm).

While pointing the timing light at the timing marks, the other hand can rotate the distributor body to reach the correct alignment

Jun 18, 2009 | 1982 Ford Ltd

2 Answers

Timing belt alignment


A factory service manual would help, but I'm assuming that if you had one, you probably wouldn't be on this site.

To set the timing, you need to first perform the obvious: remove the accessory drive belts, cam pulley covers, and engine fan and hub. Next you'll need to rotate the engine by hand until the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets and crankshaft are aligned with their corresponding stationary marks. The 0 degree mark on the lower timing belt cover is the timing mark for the crankshaft pulley. There is a mark (small, vertical formed indentation) for the left camshaft pulley on the backing plate behind the pulley near the 1 o` clock position. The same mark exists for the right camshaft pulley only it is on the backing plate near the 8 o`clock position (making it difficult to see). With the crankshaft placed at the zero mark, you can observed where the timing discrepancy exists.

(TIP: Once the right camshaft timing is properly lined up, etch an additional mark on the pulley's face and the backing plate at the 12 o`clock position. This will make it easier to align the pulley for furture adjustments and repairs)

To set the timing correctly, move the crankshaft pulley to 12 deg. BTDC. Being careful to not disturb the position of the crankshaft once it has been moved to that position, remove the crankshaft pulley, lower timing belt cover, timing belt tensioner, and timing belt. Compress the timing belt tensioner and if the original ring pin isn't available to retain the tensioner a small allen wrench can be used to achieve the same results. Line up both camshaft marks and reinstall the timing belt and timing belt tensioner (do not remove the timing belt tensioner tool used to maintain the tensioner piston in a compressed position). When installing the timing belt, be sure to allow the least amount of slack to exisit between the left camshaft pulley and the crankshaft sprocket, but without moving the pulleys.

Next, remove the timing belt tensioner piston retention tool and mount the lower timing belt cover and crankshaft pulley (without fully installing them). Rotate the crankshaft pulley to the 0 deg. mark. If done correctly, moving the crankshaft pulley from 12 deg. BTDC to 0 deg. will remove all remaining slack from the timing belt assembly and the camshaft pulleys and crankshaft pulleys will be lined up with their corresponding marks. Once proper timing has been achieved, install all removed parts.

(Another TIP: I hope it's not necessary, but in case it is, I'll remind you that proper torque of all bolts are necessary as this is an all aluminum engine. Stripping out bolts holes due to over-tightening bolts occurs very easily and become very annoying to deal with [e.g. alternator belts not being able to be tightened completely and constantly squealing every few days, etc.])

Apr 26, 2009 | 1997 Isuzu Rodeo

1 Answer

Engine starts,reaches high rpm,then slowly returns to a rough idle, misses badly,no backfire,surges as if searching/adjusting air/ fuel/est,timing light shows mark constantly changing/erratic,engine then...


Vacuum leaks. Check all hoses and intake bolts. Leaking EGR or plugged PCV valve. Air filter plugged. Leaking head gasket. Worn timing chain. Camshaft lobes worn. Valves burned or leaking. Fuel idle control system or sensor. Good luck!

Apr 18, 2009 | 1991 Chevrolet Camaro

2 Answers

My Isuzu Trooper 2004 4JX1 turbo just underwent a general engine overhaul. Its cranking but will not start. All electricals are ok. Does the PCM needed to be reset for it to start?


The ECU will be fine with a engine rebuild but the 4JX takes a bit longer to start if all the injector oil paths are empty - can be up to 5 or 6 mins of 20 second cranking bursts.
Also if you rebuilt due to diesel in the oil from bad injectors the control valve for the injector oil pressure may be faulty so it wont start.

Apr 08, 2009 | 2001 Isuzu Trooper

2 Answers

Timing belt replacement problem


old timing belt stretched

you only hand turn twice

get number one cyl up on compression stroke both vales closed piston to top of stroke

put the cam with the tooth out to align marks

try again

unless you are 180 deg out should be right




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Apr 13, 2017 | 1997 Toyota 4Runner

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