Question about 1988 Ford Bronco II

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My 1988 Bronco II is not braking. When I go to brake, the pedal goes straight to the floor without much braking happening. I've checked and filled the brake fluid. The brake fluid reservoir is plastic and is showing signs of age (spider-web cracks). The fluid is a dark brown.

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  • mustangfan18 Nov 15, 2009

    The problem isn't that I'm losing brake fluid, it's that I'm losing braking pressure.

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Sounds like a bad master cylinder.

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

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Your brake fluid is going somewhere, look for a wet stain behind each rear wheel meaning there is a failure of the slave cylinder there or the front calipers. If no stain there then find a wet spot on the brake lines themselves or at the flex hoses. On a car that old the lines and flex hoses can easily be bad. Long ago I had an 84 and at one point I had to completely replace all the brake lines as they were failing so fast I got tired of trying to put in new patches. There will be a flex hose on each front wheel allowing it to turn and one at the rear allowing the rear axle to move up and down.

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

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Brakes,pedal goes to floor ?


Check your brake master reservoirr,if empty,then you ha ve a leak.

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88 Bronco 2 4x4 2.9L has air in the hydraulic clutch line. I have been pumping the pedal and bleeding it for hours, including cracking the bleed screw with the pedal depressed. nothing seems to work.


Try to find where the air is entering the clutch line. When you bleed the cylinder you cannot drain the reservoir completely when bleeding. If you do then you'll only pump more air into the system.

Oct 29, 2014 | 1988 Ford Bronco II

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What are the proper steps to bleeding your brakes on a 1990 vw golf deisel


For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.


1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

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2 Answers

When applying pressure on the brake pedal, it sounds like its leaking air and very little brakes?


Check to see if the brake master cylinder has gone out. Don't drive it until you get it fixed.

May 30, 2010 | 1988 Ford Bronco II

2 Answers

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1988 chevy r 3500 1 ton changed out driver front brake caliper
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4 Answers

My brakes pedal goes all the way to the floor i have replace the front to brake lines i have no brakes what so ever but my pads are good.


Did you bleed the lines and master cyl. If you are talking about the flex lines that connect to the caliper, did you make sure that the fluid did not
drain out.

If the master cyl did not empty you will just have to bleed the lines again,
have someone help do do this. If you don't know how, just post it
and someone will get you a nice detailed page of bleeding your lines.

Feb 05, 2010 | 1988 Ford Bronco II

1 Answer

No brake light


if there is only power on one side of the fuse it is blown insert another fuse anyways then goto the brake light switch and see if you have power on one side if you do, then press on the brake pedal if power doesn't show on the other side when you press it then you have a bad brake light switch.

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2 Answers

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front or back is it leaking brake fluid

Mar 09, 2009 | 1988 Ford Bronco II

1 Answer

1989 Bronco II - Brakes


Here is a picture of the zerk fitting. http://img.alibaba.com/photo/100983944/Zerk_Fitting_grease_nipple.jpg
It's a small nut, like an 8mm. You'll need two people to do it. Have one press the brakes 3 or 4 times, all the way up and down as far as possible, on the last one just hold it down. The other person will open or unscrew the fitting, just enough to let a small stream come out. When the stream dies down close the fitting before it's stopped and do this whole process 2 or 3 times with a constant stream and no air. Start with the brake farthest away from the master cylinder/where the fluid goes.

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