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Which way does the pitman arm point when installed properly?

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Never really though about that but it should point ot the rear of the vehicle. It should have a guide spline (wider than others) that should help with positioning. If not, center the steering wheel and set the wheels straight ahead. The arm should comfortably engage with the link it attaches to if you have it positioned correctly.

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

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I just had the power steering gear box changed in my 1994 Mighty Max. The steering wheel is now cocked to the left. What would be the cause and what would be the fix?


You missed a spline when installing the pitman arm on the steering box. Park the truck straight and remove the arm. with the arm off, unlock steering column and point the steering wheel straight. Lock the steering column. Then reinstall the pitman arm on the steering box carefully matching the splines in the arm to the shaft on the steering box. that should be close to running straight while driving straight.

Feb 28, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

90 f350 7.3 IDI. I have been trying to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear box and it won't budge. i have beat on the threaded spindle coming out of the gear box into the pitman arm. put heat...


Seems like you are doing what you can. Why not disconnect the pitman from the truck and drop the steering box with the pitman arm on it? Although there is a cost for another pitman arm, you risk damaging the steering box components by beating on parts like the pitman arm that connect to the steering box gears and bearings.

If you are missing work and have extra costs, replacing the pitman arm may be a cheaper alternative.

Jul 12, 2017 | Ford F-350 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have trouble steering...the truck wanders over the road...i have replaced idler arms, pitman arm, center link, shocks, brakes, new tires, front end alignment, bearings...the right front tire sits...


when the steering wheel is centred, the front wheels should both point slightly inwards.
after the amount of parts changed, i would recommend that you get the tracking checked at a garage using the proper, calibrated measuring systems, to make sure that the steering is set up properly and safely.

Mar 30, 2011 | 1992 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer

Idler arm LF,idler bracket LF,pitman arm LF,tie rod sleeve LF, inner tie rod LF, tie rod end LF, need to repair


you will need a pitman arm puller, tie rod separator and a good set sockets(6 point preffered)and some penetrating oil, measure all distances between points before removal,and get the vehicle aligned

Dec 01, 2010 | 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Is a special tool required to remove inner tie rod from relay rod on 2001 Tahoe.? Also what should torque be?


Relay Rod Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Raise and support the vehicle
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Engine protection shield, if equipped
    • Steering damper from the relay rod, if equipped Note: Use the proper tool in order to separate all the tie rods and the ball joints.
      Steering components gm_trk_sub15_steering_components.gif

    • Tie rod ends (F) (See: Tie Rod Ends)
    • Idler arm ball stud nut (J) and discard the nut (See: Idler Arm)
    • Pitman arm nut (H) and discard the nut (See: Pitman Arm) Remove the idler arm from the relay rod gm_trk_sub15_idler_from_relay_rod.gif

    • Relay rod from the idler arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller Remove relay rod from pitman arm ball stud gm_trk_sub15_relay_rod_rem.gif

    • Relay rod from the pitman arm ball stud using the J24319-B or other suitable puller
    • Relay rod from the vehicle
  3. Inspect the threads on the tie rod ends for damage
  4. Inspect the ball stud threads for damage
  5. Inspect the ball stud seals for excessive damage
  6. Clean the threads on the ball studs
To Install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Relay rod to the vehicle
    • Relay rod to the pitman arm ball stud
    • Relay rod to the idler arm ball stud and make sure the seal is on the stud
    • New pitman arm prevailing torque nut
    • New idler arm prevailing torque nut and tighten the idler arm and pitman arm nuts; Torque to: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)
    • Tie rod ends
    • Steering dampener to the relay rod, if equipped
    • Engine protection shield, if equipped
  2. Lower the vehicle
  3. Check the wheel alignment
  4. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs
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Sep 18, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

How to replace a idler arm and pitman arm need to replace it on my 98 gmc suburban 4x4


You will need the proper tools to remove them which can be rented at auto parts stores. The pitman arm has to pulled off with an pitman arm puller also have to drop steering box I believe to change it. I know we did on my 1996 Tahoe the idler arm can be seperated with a front end fork also available at parts store. You just drive it between the idler arm and tie rod after removing castle nut and cotter pen.

Jul 17, 2010 | 1998 GMC Suburban

2 Answers

In order to remove the P/S Gear Pitman Shaft Lower Seal where the Pitman arm is attached on a 1995 chevy G10 van , can the seal be removed from the outside by just removing the Pitman arm or does the gear...


Once you have the arm removed (use a puller made for that) You need to remove the c clip retainer. Many times you can loosely install the arm, put it back on the ground and with a catch pan under it, just quickly turn the wheel and pressure will drive the seals out. If that does not work, you can use long self tapping screws and put one into each side of the seal and pull it free. Most i've seen always have two seals separated by a steel flat washer. To re-install, you need to carefully drive the seal back in using a piece of pipe or anything that fits and does not damage it. I have special tools I made long ago to do that but the trick is to be careful not to get the seal too far in on any one side and to not damage it in any way. Likely someone makes an install tool. Make note of the order of the seals as you remove them and make a reference mark on the arm and shaft so you can get back together the same way it was.

Jun 25, 2010 | 1995 Chevrolet K1500

1 Answer

How to change the pittman arm and idler arm on a 1999 S10 Chevy Blazer 4x4?


Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.

Apr 08, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

1989 GMC 1500 305/ pitman arm removal and installation


pitman arm? you need to replace the "idler arm" also. thats a pretty good job you will need a pitman arm puller and an impact wrench. then you will have to loosen the gear box to turn it about 25 degree to get to the bolt on the arm. then youl need a pickle fork to remove the tie rod. im asuming this is a 4x4 hope this helps good luck man

Sep 19, 2008 | 1989 GMC C1500

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