Question about 1985 Chevrolet K1500

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My 700r4 front pump seal was pushed out what causes this

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  • Chevrolet Master
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There are a few reasons : excessive load and built up to much pressure in tranny-seal old wore out-filter clogging building up pressure--tranny failure

Posted on Nov 15, 2009


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Hello,my 2000 odyssey leaks oil.guy said its front oil seal but im gonna need time belt,water pump,vtec valve and oil pan gasket.Do i really need all that just to change front seal? $400 for labor?

A leaking front seal will allow oil to get into the area where the timing belt is located. This will cause oil to get on the belt and can cause damage. Since the timing cover must be removed to access the front seal, it is recommended to replace the belt while you are in there. Also, the water pump is driven off the timing belt. Replacement of the water pump is always recommended when replacing the timing belt for two reasons. First, it is easily replaced at this time and it is good preventive maintenance. Secondly, the water pump bearing is under tension from the timing belt and develops a wear pattern. Replacement of the belt without replacing the pump will cause the new belt to wear the bearing in a different pattern, often causing leaking in a very short time after the replacement. This would then result in having to repeat all the labor again to replace the pump. It is easy to see that for $400.00 labor, you don't want to do that again in only 2-3 months. as far as the VTEC valve is concerned, I don't see a relationship to the oil leak. It could just be something else the mechanic found during the inspection. I can find nothing in the remove/replace procedures that requires replacement of the oil pan gasket. Again, maybe something additional that is needed from visual inspection, but not needed for the front seal.

Apr 03, 2016 | 2000 Honda Odyssey

2 Answers

Are 700r4 valve bodies replaceable?

If ur familiar with 700R4. The transmission is still good. What the problem is and they all do it. Remove the front pump and replace the front clutches and it will go into O/D

Dec 12, 2014 | 1987 Pontiac Firebird

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May 12, 2014 | 1994 Ford F150 Styleside Supercab

1 Answer

Transmission front seal

yes, a big problem. why in the world would you even try this ??? the torque converter drives the front pump of the transmission. is also holds the proper amount of fluid designed for said transmission. it also has a stall speed built into the fin design. it also... really, why would you even try something like this in a stock application.

Nov 16, 2013 | GMC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I own a 1993 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 that has a leaking automatic transmission. It is Canadian made (not to sure if it makes a difference) with a 5.7L/350ci V8 with what I believe to be a 700r4 overdrive...

Its probably the 4L80E trans. Front seal might be possible. Sounds like torque converter to me. Does it still leak at that speed when the tranny is cold? Or just when its warm?

Sep 13, 2010 | 1993 GMC Sierra K1500

1 Answer

I have trans fluid out of trans dust shield. Replaced front seal

There is a brass bushing in the trans pump that could be worn. Verify easy things first like trans fluid temp and proper flow to the cooler. Restrictions and heat will cause that front pump seal to leak again.

Feb 28, 2010 | 1990 Ford F350

1 Answer

I have 700r4 trans. shifts from 1to2 but won't shift 2 to 3

Since it still moves in first and second, likely the end-play inside the transmission is enough to cause a shaft seal to bypass pressure. (internal thrust surfaces or washers worn). Being that old, it most likely is in need of a rebuild. If that's the first time you've needed to do trans work, you have gotten your moneys worth there!!

Jul 22, 2009 | 1992 Chevrolet G20

1 Answer

My transmission is leaking..plz help!

If it isn't leaking from the Input seal, (The seal where the torque converter shaft goes into), then I suggest it's leaking from the Front Pump seal. Torque converter removed, look at the large round object, that has bolts going around it, and a shaft coming out the middle. The Input seal is in the middle. The large round object is the Front Pump. There is a large rubber O-ring that goes around the Front Pump. This O-ring can deteriorate, and leak. It can also blow out partially, due to inner damage of a spring clutch.

One thing I would like to advise you on. The Inner seal installation.

You should use the proper tool to remove it. You should use a seal puller. Also, when using a seal puller, the seal puller head can dig into the Front Pump cast iron case.
This can create a gouge, in the recess where the outside of the seal sits. This will create an area to leak.
Use caution when removing an Inner seal, and only have the seal puller head just far enough in, that it catches about half, of the inner seal -> metal outer ring. Past the rubber part of the seal, past the spring, and onto the metal outer ring of the seal itself. But, not far enough that the seal puller head will touch the Front Pump case recess.

If you did gouge the recess of the Front Pump case, clean the area with a clean shop rag. Use a half round file, and carefully remove the burr that the gouge creates. When a gouge is created, it upsets the metal. The gouge makes a 'valley', and a burr is created on the top edges of this 'valley'. That burr needs to be filed down to the rounded recess surface. Follow up with sandpaper. Wipe it out with a clean shop rag. Wrap a clean shop rag around the shaft, so that no metal fillings can get inside the Front Pump, and blow that recess out with air. Wipe the recess area again, with a clean shop rag.

To install an Inner seal, lightly coat the outside metal ring of the seal, with silicone. I use high temp Red. Failure to do this may cause a leak. Do this if you have a gouge or not. If you have a gouge, put a little extra silicone in that gouge, and fill it up. Don't use too much, but make sure the gouge is filled.

Either use a seal installation tool, or fabricate one out of Schedule 80 pipe, and have one end milled flat, and the corners rounded a little. The pipe must be large enough to fit against the flat outer lip of the seal.
Put the seal in place. Push on it, try to keep it flat and even. Put the seal installation tool on the seal. Tap on one side of the installation tool, then tap on the other, until you get a good start. Good start being the seal starts to go in, and is even all the way around. Then take you hammer, and tap around the outside edge of the installation tool. Go around and around. Watch how the seal is going in. If it starts to tilt off to one side, stop. Remove the seal. Start over. It must go in even all the way around, as it's being installed.

Failure to keep it even as it's installed, will twist the seal, and the seal's spring will pop out. Now you have a twisted seal, and no spring. The seal is junk!

BE SURE, to apply a thin light coat of transmission fluid, to the inner part of the seal. The area where the torque converter shaft will spin in. FAILURE to do this, might cause the torque converter shaft to twist, the inner rubber part of the seal, and twist the seal in half. The seal is then junk!

Apr 24, 2009 | 1994 Mitsubishi Mirage

3 Answers


700R4/2004R TV Cable Adjustment Instructions WARNING! IMPORTANT NOTICE!
It is imperative that after your new TCI® 700R4/2004R transmission has been installed that the Throttle Valve (TV) Cable gets adjusted properly, DAMAGE WILL OCCUR to the transmission, voiding the warranty. If you are unsure about the proper adjustment needed, call TCI®'s tech line for help or refer to a General Motors service manual for additional information and reference.
Function of the TV Cable: Many people believe that this is a detent downshift cable and that this is the only function that the cable performs. In actuality, the TV Cable controls line pressures, shift points, part throttle downshifts and detent downshifts. The cable functions similarly to the combination vacuum modulator/cable systems found on other automatic transmissions.
TV Cable Connection: If you are retrofitting your TCI® 700R4/2004R transmission in place of a different model transmission (i.e. TH-350 or TH-400) it is imperative that you follow the TV Cable bracket fabrication instructions. If your TCI® 700R4/2004R is replacing an original 700R4/2004R then skip to Step 2.
Step 1 Obtain a cable that is designed for use with the 700R4/2004R transmission. The TH-350 and older TH-200 cables are designed differently and will not work. A salvage yard cable may work but be forewarned: There are about 30 different length cables found on stock vehicles and a cable that is too short in your application will not work. Also, used cables could have a number of problems as well, including stretched cables, damaged sheathing or housings or mutilated cable ends. TCI® recommends our universal TV Cable (TCI® 376800) that is designed to work correctly in any 700R4/2004R application.
gm_tv_fig1.gifStep 2 With the carburetor/throttle body end of the TV Cable disconnected, pull the link out of the transmission and fit the cable end to the link as shown in Figure 1. Push the TV Cable sheath into the seal in the transmission and tighten the 10mm retaining bolt. If your vehicle has a factory installed bracket for the TV Cable then skip to Step 4.
Step 3 Install a bracket that will allow the TV Cable to mount to the carburetor/throttle body. TCI® carries two brackets: TCI® 376700 works with Rochester Quadrajets, Carter AFBs or Edelbrock Performer carburetors. TCI® 376800 works with most Holley carburetors.
If you are using a Chevrolet TBI/TPI induction system, then correct brackets can be obtained from a salvage yard or a local car dealership.
Figure 2 demonstrates the correct geometry for the TV Cable mounting position. Use the following procedure to determine if your ADJUSTER MOUNTING POINT is correct.
a. Push in the Adjust Tab and retract the Slider in the direction shown in Figure 3.
b. Without allowing the Slider to move, pull the cable until it stops and measure from the mounting bracket to the cable end. Add 3/16" to this measurement and that will determine the ADJUSTER MOUNTING POINT distance at full throttle (WOT).
gm_tv_fig2.gifc. Also note in Figure 2 that the distance from the throttle shaft to the cable end is referenced. This distance must be between 1 7/64" and 1 1/8"! The cable end mounting point should follow a 78° arc between closed throttle and WOT in order to achieve the proper amount of pull on the cable.
Step 4 Adjustment of the TV Cable on a gasoline engine. For a diesel application go to Step 5.
a. Adjustments are made with the engine off. Locate the Adjust Tab on the cable housing. Press in the tab and push the slider as shown in Figure 3.
b. Release the tab and rotate the throttle lever to WOT and the cable will self adjust itself as evidenced by a few audible clicks. Release the throttle lever and check the cable for any signs of binding or sticking.
gm_tv_fig3.gifc. Road test the vehicle. Under moderate acceleration your shift points should be close to the following:
1-2…………………15-20 MPH
2-3…………………25-30 MPH
3-4…………………40-45 MPH
If the cable is adjusted too loosely your transmission will exhibit soft, stacked shifts (not spread out). DO NOT CONTINUE DRIVING VEHICLE IF THIS HAPPENS! Immediately readjust cable. If you continue to have problems, please contact TCI®'s tech department for assistance.
Step 5 Adjustments of the TV Cable on a diesel engine.
a. Adjustments are made with the engine off. If equipped with cruise control, remove the control rod.
b. Disconnect the TV Cable end from the throttle lever.
c. Loosen the locknut on the pump rod and shorten several turns.
d. Turn throttle lever to WOT and tighten the pump rod locknut.
e. Lengthen pump rod until injection pump lever contacts the full throttle stop.
f. Release the throttle lever and tighten the pump rod locknut.
g. Remove pump rod from the throttle lever.
h. Reconnect the TV Cable end to the throttle lever.
i. Press in the Adjust Tab and move Slider as shown in Figure 3.
j. Release the tab and rotate the throttle lever to WOT and the cable will self adjust itself as evidenced by a few audible clicks. Release the throttle lever and check the cable for any signs of binding or sticking.
k. Reconnect the pump rod and cruise control throttle rod, if equipped.
l. If equipped with cruise control, adjust servo throttle rod to minimum slack.
m. Road test the vehicle. Under moderate acceleration your shift points should be close to the following:
1-2…………………15-20 MPH
2-3…………………25-30 MPH
3-4…………………40-45 MPH
n. If the cable is adjusted too loosely your transmission will exhibit soft, stacked shifts (not spread out). DO NOT CONTINUE DRIVING VEHICLE IF THIS HAPPENS! Immediately readjust cable. If you continue to have problems, please contact TCI®'s tech department for assistance.

Feb 16, 2009 | 1988 Chevrolet C1500

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