Question about 1995 Honda Civic
Hi! I want to replace the conventional tail light bulb with LED.
Problem: LED does not light park light is switched ON. LED lights only when brake pedal is pressed. LED was pre-tested working.
Isolations Done: Temporarily cut the brake wire, LED lights with park light switched ON. LED immediately goes OFF the moment the brake wire is reconnected. Again, perfectly working using the conventional bulb. Already cleaned the gound body and park/brake terminals of the LED to ensure good contact but same problem.
Hope you can help me on this problem.
Maybe your LED bulb is defective and so you need to replace that LED bulb with a new good quality one.
I can recommend you search for a LED High Bay Lights which are of high quality and cost-effective.These bulbs are reliable and save a lot of power.
You can also find here simple and easy to use plug and play LED lamps.
Hope this will help!
Posted on Dec 26, 2017
Your description indicates the replacement led bulb is either defective or not a direct replacement for the ordinary bulb, which I assume is a 2-filament stop/tail type because if you have a good ground and both supplies are present as indicated by the fact the ordinary bulb worked fine, the led should similarly work if it is good.
I suggest you check the supply voltages while the led is fitted. It might happen that some device in the lighting circuit is monitoring the amount of current or resistance of each bulb and will not provide a supply unless it "sees" the correct amount.
Posted on Apr 11, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
COMBINATION LIGHT SWITCH SHORTING TO GROUND TERMINAL WILL CAUSE TAIL LIGHTS TO STAY ON AND.YOUR STOP LIGHT OR BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH IS LOCATED ON A BRACKET THE SWITCH CONTACT OR TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL ARM.
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
Hi Renee, Mic here. Have someone check your sensors and relays.... Have you ran codes on it? If so, what are they? I think the sensors would be the first area I would look into.
Hope all goes well.
Posted on Dec 04, 2009
Did you fix this? I have the same issue....honda states it is a controller unit (after the fuse box....before the lights) If there was a short, there is NO protection!! An obvious design flaw.....$350 part + labor. Let me know how you resolved your issue? EdB
Posted on Jun 21, 2010
The driver's Multiplex Control System is a small computer that controls (among many other things) the dash lights brightness, ignition key interlock, shift interlock, and has a tie in to the brake light system and horn relay. It may be that this small computer malfunctioned and started the whole problem chain.
However, I note from the factory shop manual that if polarity is reversed on the shift interlock--it can be damaged. Reverse polarity will ruin the diode inside the shift interlock. This could have happened when you jumped the battery--a brief period of getting the cables and terminals mixed up could have done it.
Checking the shift lock solenoid can be done by removing the steering column upper cover. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (2 terminals). Using long jumper wires, apply battery voltage to terminal 1 (yellow wire side) of the solenoid and ground terminal 2 (green wire side). Check that the shift lever can now be moved out of Park. NOTE: applying voltage in the opposite direction of that above will damage the diode in the solenoid and will probably ruin it. Remove your jumpers and shift back to park and check that the solenoid locks. If the solenoid does not work properly, it will need to be replaced. This involves removing the end of the transmission shift cable and is a complex job. Remember, no power to the solenoid equals a locked solenoid--it takes power to unlock it.
The Multiplex Control Unit has a self diagnostic feature which checks the computer itself and inputs to the computer. The computer check is called mode 1 and the input test is mode 2. The diagnostic trouble codes are outputted to the ignition key light and beeper.
To test, first confirm that all fuses are good, especially fuse 9 (10A) in the driver's under dash fuse box (left kick panel) and fuse 13 (7.5A) in the passenger's under dash fuse box (right kick panel). Then use a jumper wire (a wire with small alligator clips on each end works best) to jump the two leads of the multiplex test connector. (This is a light green 2 terminal connector dangling from the same wire bundle as the brake pedal switch connector.) Buckle the driver's seat belt (avoids nuisance beeps). Now turn the ignition switch to on. After about 5 seconds, the ignition key light should come on and the beeper should beep for 2 seconds then stop for .2 sec. then beep once for .2 seconds. This indicates that the system is in diagnostic mode 1.
If no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are present, the key light and beeper will not blink/beep again. If there are codes: about one second after entering mode 1, the key light and beeper will indicate the DTC and repeat it every 3 seconds. If there are more than one, the system will indicate them in ascending order. The codes will be a light flash and beep so you will have to count the flashes/beeps to keep track. The codes range from 1 to 6. Code 3 (three flashes/beeps) indicates a problem with the multiplex control unit itself. Write back here for other codes or for questions about mode 2.
Posted on Jan 24, 2011
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