Question about 1998 Toyota Corolla
My 1998 Toyota Tazz (Conquest) developed a gearoil leak. This was fixed but now the previously smooth gear change has become sticky and notchy, even to the extent of locking in 2nd while changing up or down. Any assistance will be appreciated.Pam
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I assume you are saying it is late to shift. There is what is called a Throttle Valve ( TV) cable that goes from the engine to the transmission. If this cable is out of adjustment, or too tight, it will cause this problem. While you are at it check for vaccuum leaks on the hose from the engine to the tranmission. A problem here will cause a harsh shift, but necessarryly late shift
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
Automatic Transmission: Is your speedodometer working fine? Not jumping around one irratically? My inlaws Ford Taurus would act like that, but when their problems were present their speedo wasn't functioning. I changed out their speeo sensor and the problem was solved. I'm not saying that's your problem, but if your computer is relying on your speed sensor to tell it when to shift and the sensor is not working it the computer will go into a safe mode and not allow the transmission to shift (automatic transmission) out of 2nd gear. Otherwise I would lean toward transmission troubles. Could be as simple as changing your transmission fluid and filter. If the filter has never been changed with those kind of miles its long long overdue. All you do is jack up and support the front of your vehicle on jack stands remembering to block the rear wheel with a 2x4 or something large that the vehicle can't roll over and then place a drain pan under the transmission oil pan. If it has a drain plug then simly remove it and drain the transmission fluid into the drain pan. When done draining, replace the plug. If it doesn't have a plug then you will have to loosen all of the bolts holding the Transmission oilpan just a little bit and then work on loosening the bolts to the rear of the oil pan so that it drains from the rear of the pan allowing you to more accurately determine where the fluid is going to come out at. You may have to lightly pry the pan loose from the transmission if it doesn't start to drain once the rear bolts are loosened. You want to only loosen the front bolts about 2 full turns and then gradually as you work your way back loosening them just a little bit more the closer you get back to the rear of the transmision oilpan. The front of the vehicle is already up in the air so the oil should run to the back of transmission oil pan. Finish draining it and then remove all of the bolts and remove the oil pan from the transmission. Look at the new filter so you know what it looks like when you look for the old one to remove. Look to see how it is fastened up into place and remove the bolts / screws holding it in place and then remove the filter and put the new one on. You may have the design where it's held on by pressing it on with your hand because it has a rubber seal attached to the filter. After the filter is in place you need to use a clean rag and clean and dry the mating surface on the transmission where the oil pan touches. If there is a gasket there then you will have to remove and replace it with one from the Filter Kit. This should be done anytime you remove the pan. If it is a rubber style gasket then you will not need any RTV sealant. If it is a paper or cork gasket then you need to purchase a sqeeze tube of RTV sealant. Pay attention to the package details of the RTV because not all are for transmission fluids. If you need to use the sealant then read the directions carefully and then re-install the new seal. Put the Trans Oilpan back into place and if you are using RTV then make sure that when you are tightening down the bolts that hold the pan to the transmission that you do not over tighten. You don't want to sqeeze all of the sealant out from between the mating surfaces. Remove your jackstands and unchalk your rear wheel, then lower your vehicle back down. Under the hood you will need to find where the dipstick is and with a funel, refill the transmission with the recommended transmission fluids that is right for your make and model vehicle. If you are not sure then ask your local parts store.
Manual (Stick Shift) transmission: you may have a bad clutch or worn out throw-out bearing. If you let out on the clutch and the vehicle feels like the clutch is still partially engaged and it takes a lot more gas to get to speed, then it sounds like you've smoked your clutch due to either normal ware and tare or operater driving habbits. I would look into replacing the clutch. Inspect the flywheel for discoloration like bluing or yellowish colored metal that idicates that it has gotten HOT. You'll have to drop your transmission out and then you will need to remove the clutch and fly wheel. Inspect the flywheel for cracks. If you see hairline cracks around the bolt holes or anywher else on the surface then you'll have to replace it. If you do not see any cracks then take it to shop or parts store that have the capabilities and can look it over to make sure it didn't get to hot (to hot means the temper in the metal has been taken out. Temper is the hardness of the metal, so if the temper has been lost, then the flywheel could be brittle and dangerous if re-used. You may be in luck and the flywheel didn't get to hot therefore allowing you to be able to keep it and just have them turn a new surface on it with their lathe. Just like when you have your brake rotors and brake drums turned. Replace the throw-out bearing, pilot bearing, clutch and presure plate. Re-assemble. You should buy one of those cheap (i.e. cost not quality) clutch alignment tools for re-aligning the clutch to make your job much easier.
If you are not comfortable with working on your own vehicle or don't have the tools then take it to someone who can. Recommend taking it to the professionals. These suggestions may or may not fit your specific problem(s), but without knowing more information these are merely suggestions.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
Don't know about the 97, but I have a 99 escort, 00 corolla, 00 camry and 98 Suburban (though thats diesel so a diffrent animal altogether)... prior to that an 86 and 88 vw quantum and golf respectively... once electronic ignition became standard, there wasn't much "tuning left to do". Change the spark plugs, wires, cap an rotor, pcv valve, air filter, and fuel filter and I think you did a "tune up". With platihnum plugs an such you don't change the plugs often (like once every 5 years or so... depends on the plug, look in your manual). Get the Bosch warranteed wires from a place with lifetime warranty... remember where you bought them..., anything less will fail...
O2 sensors and catalytic converters can be a horror show. Aftermarket replacement catalytic converters cost a few dollars (about 1/3 of dealer cost) but they contain about 1/5th of the metals needed for catalytic conversion, so they fail in about 1 to 2 years... if you plan to keep the vehicle longer, plunk the money down, of you like replacing the things, get the aftermarkets, again a leftime warranty would be a neat trick, O2 sensors - sometimes you can get away with a 35$ universal from the discount shop, I did nonthe vw's, I did not on the toyotas....
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
you need to replace your top gasket i had the same problem with my tazz the car decided to start over heating and used alot of water so take it away and have it fixed before your problem becomes bigger and i payed R1000 to have my car fixed properly
Posted on Feb 17, 2010
Your timings off, its to far advanced
Posted on Jun 10, 2014
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