Question about 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

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2002 Santa Fe 2.7 V6 (California Car) 260,000 + miles. Engine idle will increase to about 1500 RPM and drop back to normal without notice, at times difficult to start (must hold throttle about half open) on rare occasion will stall. Symptoms happen with engine warm or cold, no check engine light otherwise runs fine with no drop in fuel economy. Replaced throttle position switch (OE replacement) but symptoms remain. Vehicle has been tuned at regular intervals, fuel pump and filter recently replaced with OE parts.

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I faulty Idle Air Control valve (IAC) can cause these specific symptoms. You could try diconnecting the IAC valve (usually near the throttle body) and regulating the idle yourself. If the fluctuations go away and you are able to hold a constant idle position with the gas pedal (if vehicle will start), the IAC is the problem.

Posted on Jan 07, 2010

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Toyota corolla hatch 2002 idle at 2000 rpm when


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2009 Hyunda Santa Fe stalls while driving


I had a similar problem with my Santa Fe. It occurred intermittently but after I turned the steering wheel to the left. After much screwing around by the dealer and trying to baffle me with BS we heard about a strange solution. I am not a mechanic but the problem somehow related to a spring in the Airbag on the steering wheel. Changed the spring and "Stone the flame'n crows" problem solved. Never had a problem since.

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1 Answer

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Have the codes read to find out the fault code that triggers the light. Go to a mechanic, or your local auto parts superstore and have them check it. Hope this helps.

Apr 02, 2010 | 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe

1 Answer

Cold idle stays on too long


Has it always behaved the same? It has sensors that detect engine temp, outside temp, humidity and altitude to give you the perfect fuel air mixture for the conditions. 1300 to 1500 rpm is not unusual for cold engine warm up. You could have a bad sensor, but the codes should have revealed that problem. 10 minute warm up is not outside the norm. at idle, but 7 miles driving should make it happen a little sooner. As for the the stick moving when you "get on it", that is normal engine "torque", your engine mounts give just a bit to allow movement and to keep that "torque" from being transferred to the body/framework of the vehicle. You have hard rubber mounts. As they "fatigue" you will notice this movement increasing slightly.

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1 Answer

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Hi ..... This sounds as if it's fitted with an automatic choke, as long as the revs drop when it's warm there is nothing to worry about. The indication when these start to go wrong is that the car won't start when cold ................ even then any decent mechanic can fit a normal/manual choke.

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