Question about 1990 Volvo 240

4 Answers

Fuel injectors not firing. After 1 hour tow and a wiggle of the coil wire and a qucick crack of the fuel rail which produced a nice squirt we had fire. Further inspection found TPS and IAC? connectors disconnected. Reconnection yeilded smooth running. after 3 hour of operation on a 12 stop delivery route injectors crapped out again. after a one hour rest at 65F in nov. It started and ran smooth. MAF readback of 1.4VDC was suggested out of spec Chiltons .1-.2. pick n pull maf gave same. I think book is wrong. Which sensor is temp sensitive in such a fashion. OX sensor is 2 years old. 12 years wrenching. first time stumped. Pepteye

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  • charlievw Nov 14, 2009

    Good day.



    Thank you for the rapid response. I certainly check connections, the TPS is dirty. can you second source the 1.4 volt spec on the maf readback. I tried a known bad one and read battery voltage on all connectors. The MAF connectors are clean.

  • charlievw Nov 14, 2009

    I see no record of having posted a comment a moment ago. this is a test.

  • charlievw Nov 15, 2009

    Good Day.



    I exposed the computer to external heating without effect. Does a BF230 engine ahve a cam position sensor? I've found the crank position sensor but see nothing of the Cam sensor on this OHC engine. My Volvo Pro (potential alterior motives) said when the jetronics go, they go. When I disconnected the MAF while running it behaved as many have in the past, still running but lurching. I still can't find any record of comments. Are they seen only on the expert side? New to cyberhelp and greatful for the responses.

  • charlievw Nov 15, 2009

    Good day.



    Verified Spark. Verified fuel pressure w/guage, unable to cause failure with external heating 90oF of jetronic ECM. Replaced MAF. Pre obd ll vehicle has blinking diode code module. Module provides "no faults under all conditions (including when MAF and or CPS are disconnected). Have seen other chat indicating this test module works.

  • charlievw Nov 16, 2009

    Good day.



    the car has not "died". The failure is only when attempting to start the engine.



    Thank you for continuing the dialog.



    Charlie

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There are several things to look at, there is an upgraded ecu you can purchase because this has become common place. the crank position sensor is another likely culprit. but from my days with volvo, i would strongly recomend getting an updated ecu and just driving it. you have a great little car there. enjoy.

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

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Is there a service engine soon light active, if not have you had the vehicle scanned for trouble codes?
As it stands right now there could be a number of components that could be causing the problem or as you put it, temperature sensitive.
At the time the engine quite during your delivery stops, did you check to see if you had spark at a spark plug while the engine was cranking?
I would start with the basics first, scan the vehicle for trouble codes, verify fuel pressure using the appropriated fuel pressure gauge, verify secondary ignition while cranking and verify injector pulse while engine cranking.
Lets start there and see if any are missing before we start replacing parts.
Let me know.

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

  • Bruce Bracey
    Bruce Bracey Nov 15, 2009

    So I understand the issue, when the car dies the secondary ignition system is providing spark to the spark plugs, fuel pressure is nominal and you have verified injector pulse using a noid light, is that correct?

    Let me know.

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The ignition module is temp sensitive when it is going out.The mass air flow has a much wider range than this also,If the vehicle can run,try lightly taping on the mass air flow,if it has issues,it will show up here.Ignition module,and the cam sensor are more heat sensitive than the others,and o2 is more of a monitor for the computer,will not affect the dieing out.It does sound more like ignition module to me.I hope this helps,if so,let us know,thank you.

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

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Take a close look at your grounds and power connections, make sure they are good and clean. also check the terminals inside the plugs and connectors for the maf., injectors, etc. if corroded, can easily be temp sensitive when they are bad.
Where was the ground for your meter when you read the 1.4 vdc? did you try it directly on the battery?
Anouther thing keep in mind is, sometimes a hair dryer, or heat gun, works good to heat things up untill it crapps out. try heating up the computer.
Hope this helps

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

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