The make-the-shower-come-on push button on my shower does not stay in causing my shower to be inoperable. I'm pretty sure I need to replace the push button diverter valve (hopefully that is all) on a Delta single knob shower and since I have never done anything like this before I need some really basic, thorough, talking to a child, step by step instructions to do so (some detailed photos or a video would be jam up, but I understand with the short notice my options are probably limited to the written word alone). The Delta diverter is Model RP5649, however I could only find the Delta impersonator Danco model 80971. I really need to take a shower. My screwdriver, crescent wrench and I are ready to go. Please help us. Thank you very much.
Re: I need to replace the push button diverter valve
Take off the knob (screw on bottom of knob) Take off the face plate (two screws usually hidden by knob) If you can get a crescent wrench on the diverter's hex shaped part, carefully put the wrench on just the diverter valve portion-it's like a quarter inch wide. righty tighty, lefty loosey. If it doesn't turn, hit it with WD 40, blaster, liquid wrench,etc. and let that soak in. If it still won't turn, call a plumber because you don't want to brute force it-copper pipes bend and break really easily. Don't let your life become a Lucy skit for the price of an hour of plumber. If it spun and came out, take it to the plumbing store and find the replacement part. There are only two; one chrome, one bronze, as far as I know from my bathroom adventures. Get some teflon tape as well. Take the matching new one, wrap the threads with a wrap of teflon tape, and carefully thread it in where the old one went by hand until you can't turn it more. Then go another turn or two with the crescent wrench being delicate, not like big angry gorilla. Test it before you replace the knob and face plate to see if it leaks-you don't want it piddling behind your wall. If it works and doesn't piddle, replace the faceplate and then the knob and take a shower.
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You have a air box heater box air divert valve stuck you will need to replace it first start by looking under the dash passenger side you will see a round part with some vacuum hoses coming off from them start engine switch your location function switch see if working on divert er vacuum you most likely will have to replace your divert er valve.
If the heater coil was bad, it would be leaking radiator fluid... probably into your dash/floorboard (depending on where it is installed in your model car). There is a switch that diverts the hot radiator fluid through the heater coil when you want heat. There is also an air diverter valve that helps to mix the hot and cold air. The fluid valve is controlled by the A/C settings control. The one that you use to choose between heater/air conditioner/vent/ defrost. The air diverter is controlled by the temp mixing controller. The most simple explanation is that one of those valves or the controller of one of those valves is not working. If the hot water cant be diverted through the heater coil, the coil can't exchange the heat (warming the air). If the air diverter (hot/cold controller) cant move to add heat, then all you will feel is air from the vent side (from outside) or from the A/C cooling the air.
I would guess that its either a controller or one of the valves themselves. Odds are, it is a controller. That tends to be what malfunctions first.
no the fan that is used on most vechiles is called a viscus fan , it operates from the heat from your radiator, when you first take off the fan stays engauged because the liquid inside is cold and thick , causing a lock up in the fan, this is normal. once it gets heat from the radiator it thins and allows the fan to spin freely. then once enough heat is sensed by the coil windings on the front of the fan a valve inside is opened and the thinned oil is diverted and causes the fan to lock up again to help remove heat from radiator .
1997 BMW 328I 2.8L
MIL is on with trouble codes P1421 and P1423, for incorrect secondary airflow on both cylinder banks.
1. Perform a functional test of the Air Injection Reaction (AIR) system. Tee a vacuum gauge into the vacuum hose attached to the diverter valve, located on the cylinder head towards the front of the engine.
2. Allow the vehicle to sit over night. Start the engine (cold) while monitoring the amount of vacuum on the gauge at startup. At temperatures from -10 to 40 degrees Celsius, there should be at least 17 inches of vacuum. At the same time, the AIR pump should run and pump a large volume of air into the exhaust.
A.I.R. Pump Air Pump Relay Restricted Cylinder Head Diverter Valve Tech Tips:
These codes are related to a problem detected in the Secondary Air Injection system. Scan tools with BMW software include a feature to command the AIR pump on and off. The pattern failures for these codes are the AIR pumps due to leaks in the diverter valve and moisture or condensation in the AIR pump.
Possible fix but not all items. Just areas to look at:
A.I.R. Pump, Air Injection Reaction Diverter (AIRD) Valve
Air Injection Reaction Diverter (AIRD) Valve
Check Valve, Secondary Air Pump
Diverter Valve Vacuum Lines
If when button is pushed in it stays in the AC-light lights up, then you may have another problem like a leak in the system N0/low Freon in system and AC would n't work. But if the switch doesn' t stay push in when its pushed then the switch is BAd and needs to be replace and that will solve the problem. If the switch stays push in with NO AC light on then you may have a bad Ac fuse. Good luck and thanks for using Fix Ya
Sounds like the recirculation valve (aka diverter valve) is failing. A lot of turbo cars that have them end up with failures from them, since they're usually cheaply made from plastic, and the diaphragms inside don't hold up over time.
What the valve does is, when you shift, there is a backsurge of boost air that hits the closed throttle plate. The diverter valve (DV) opens and dumps the air back into the intake piping. It's kept closed during acceleration by spring and manifold pressure. When you shift, the pressure drops on the backside of the valve and it opens, venting the excess boost air. If your valve is failing, just the pressure of boost in the intake piping could be pushing it open, causing the acceleration to slow. I'd look into a replacement diverter/recirculation valve.
hello i think you should have the system power bleed with a power bleeder theres a good chance the plunger in the proportioning valve is sticking if you have this truck power bleed it will push out the old fluid replacing with new usually if theres any type of contaminates especially oil ,or power stewering put into master by mistake it would swell any rubber piece to the point of a hard pedal and nothing working then you would have to replace everthing like your being told the only thing you could still use would be the lines wich would have to be cleaned with denature alcahol i would have it bleed in sequence firthest tire down to the closest to the master goodluck