Question about 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager

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My 98 plymouth grand voyager SE dies after I start It. It starts for 2 seconds and then dies. I took it to a chrysler dealership and they had my car all day. They said that they think its the BCM or the ECM and that it could cost 1100.00 to 1200.00 and as much as 1600.00 to 1700.00. They said that the car thinks its being stolen and shutting down the fuel pump. This problem started in the spring and it happens every 2 to 3 weeks. I have had towed twice already. I took it to someone who used to work for chrysler and has his own shop now, and he said I have to wait for it to happen in order to diagnose it right. Someone told me of a trick to do. Instead of useing the keyless remote, use the key to open the door and its like it resets everything. That worked for about 2 months and then it started again. The guy that had it said that he had two codes that kept coming up, BCM and PTC or PTM and I asked him how much this is, and he said just the BCM is 800.00 that doesn't include the man hours to put it in. They said they could replace it but that might not fix the problem. When this happens their not going to come out that day and look at it, they will come the next day and then it will start fine. Its gotten to the point of that I drive it only between work and home. If I go to the store I leave it running. They were trying to find a pattern when it happens, like temperature change or if I had been driving it for a while. But there is no pattern its just so random.

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You can get either a BCM orECM at a salvage yard for $75.00 each,
all you need is to pull each computer down and copy the numbers off of it to give to salvage yard to match up.

Posted on Dec 06, 2009

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I have the exact same problem with my 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager - starting for 2 seconds and shutting off, then eventually the van won't even turn over (like the electrical is dead) yet the key fob works. I did notice that this problem happens most when the car is wet or damp (like during or after a rain). This led me to pull the panel off beside the steering wheel and apply heat (like a hair dryer to the Power Distribution Module right beside the secondary fuse box). After 20 minutes the car will start fine often. It must be either a bad module, connector or ground. I have downloaded the schematic and the alram system does inhibit the fuel pump and other things - but everything goes through this Power Distribution computer. I have now changed the fuel pump and it still has this problem. I wish one could just shut off the alarm system as it is obviously the root of the problem. Oh and the alarm codes show no veichle problem (so that means the alarm system is independent). Otherwise the van has been great for our family of 5. I have used the key fob to open the doors and noticed that when the ALARM set light stays on after locking, is when I have the problem. Normal operation has the ALARM on the top dash flash quickly. I have also looked at the various inputs to the alarm - like the hood switch, all the doors, etc... and this is still a mystery. Hopefully my experience will help someone - short of changing the PDU or the key switch and maybe even sealing everything wih silicon - I am not sure what to do. If you have a better answer please e-mail me at tomg@peoplewerks.com - thanks .. Tom Gaasenbeek

Posted on Jan 15, 2010

  • Tom Gaasenbeek Jan 15, 2010

    More advice on the 1998 Plymouth Alarm car start inhibit problem - this morning after using the blow dryer approach yet again I found a very knowledgable Chrysler Service Tech who had some interesting advice. The real issue may be the circuit board behind the dash, or the wiring behind the blower controls - which all go into the Body Control Module (BCM) --what I was calling the Power Distribution Module above next to the steering wheel. The hot air may just dry out a bad ground, or reset a cold solder joint or connector. So the untilmate solution may be to replace the dash circuit board as the BCM is rare to fail I am told. Another idea was to slap the top of the dash above the instrument panel as the loose wire may reset. The heater idea (rare as it may be) relates to the heavy wires behind the heater slide bars (you get at it removing the 4 screws 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom when you remove the gray plate by above the pull out cup holder. Check the joints for arcing and good connections as it too affects the BCM. Finally, one last idea... althought the Vehicle Theft System cannot be disabled, you can simply not arm it and then this issue will not cause a problem. From now on do not use the auto locks or the FOB to lock the door and thus arm the system - walk around and manually lock the door and it will not arm. This may be the cheapest way to solve the problem... good luck!

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I have tried hitting the dash, locking the doors to checking wiring. Still the security lock has my engine not turning over. Thinking going back to a truck. Any other suggestions?

Posted on Aug 08, 2014

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I changed out my BCM in my 1998 Plymouth Grand Voyager and come to find out that they gave me a BCM that was for a model that had a security system installed and of course now issues with it disabling the van. Plusgged in the old one and now it will not even turn over. But now the headlights work which they didn't before.

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

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I have a similar experience. Car ran perfectly, then on the highway yesterday, the engine just died doing 70mph, fun. Pulled over, turned the key, and all the lights came on, but the starter wouldn't turn and i didn't hear fuel pump. 5 min's later it started up, ran for 2 min's and shut back down. Got it towed 180 miles back home($$$$), and started to tear into it. I had someone turn the key to try to start the car while I was under the hood with a wrench, hitting the fuse/relay box and the ecm next to it. As soon as I hit the ECM it started, i hit it a few more times and the car died. Needless to say, I could keep on recreating the problem so the answer must be the ECM. Later tonight I'm going to take off the 4 torx screws, take out the circuit board, and resolder all the connections... that being said, I also removed the BCM and am going to do the same thing... why not? While I'm at it, i'm gonna run another ground cable from the chassis to both the BCM and the ECM.. once again, why not? If doing that could save me a $810 in the future, wouldn't you try it?

Posted on Sep 24, 2010

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I tried your solution by manually locking the doors and the alarm set on dash still flashes 30 times before stopping. This is the same amount if you use your fob or automatic door locks so I don't think manually locking door's is the answer for this problem

Posted on Jan 25, 2010

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I have the exact problem as above. and yet the dealership told me they have never heard of such a thing and want 85 bucks and hr to go through everything electrical. i know what the problem is and they wont listen

Posted on Feb 02, 2012

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