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I'm assuming just by the fact you had a new battery and new starter that sometimes when you turn the key to the start position , nothing happens . Is your vehicle a automatic transmission ? When it doesn't start have checked for battery voltage at the starter solenoid S terminal ? Is there B+ voltage at pins 30 & 86 for the starter relay ? Pin 86 while cranking the engine or trying to crank the engine over . Pin 30 check with key on . Try moving gear selector to neutral . Videos on youtube for basic automotive electrical testing . How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit Find a wiring diagram at www.bbbind.com
Starting System Circuit Description
Voltage is applied at all times to the ignition switch from the IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the ignition switch is turned to the START position, voltage is applied to the CRANK fuse 8 through CKT 5 (YEL). From the CRANK fuse 8, voltage is either applied to the clutch pedal position switch (M/T) or the transmission range switch (A/T) through CKT 806 (PPL). When either the clutch is disengaged (M/T) or the transmission is in park or neutral (A/T), voltage is applied to the coil of the starter relay through CKT 1035 (PPL/WHT). Since the starter relay is permanently grounded at ground G105 through CKT 150 (BLK), the starter relay energizes.
Voltage is applied at all times to the starter relay contacts from IGN A fuse 6 through CKT 242 (RED). When the starter relay energizes, the starter relay contacts close, and voltage is applied to the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor solenoid is permanently case grounded, the starter motor solenoid will energize two coils. The pull-in winding coil energizes in order to pull the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. When the contacts close, a plunger on the contacts causes the pull-in winding coil circuit to open. The hold-in winding coil then holds the starter motor solenoid contacts closed. Voltage is then applied to the starter motor from the battery through CKT 1 (BLK) and the closed contacts of the starter motor solenoid. Since the starter motor is also permanently case grounded, the starter motor will run until the ignition switch is moved out of the START position. When this happens, a spring in the starter motor solenoid moves the starter motor solenoid contacts and the plunger back to the rest position.
Hey Todd how's it going ? How's the battery ? battery connections ? Are there any lights lit on the dash , security , check engine ? Because your getting a clicking there is nothing wrong with the theft deterrent relay ! Take a volt meter on the 20 volt scale an put negative lead at the negative battery post , then take your positive lead an put it on s terminal small wire on the starter solenoid an have someone turn the key to start position , you should see battery voltage . If you see battery voltage there is nothing wrong with the theft deterrent relay ! or the crank circuit. You need to do a voltage drop test on the starting system ! I'm thinking possible battery cable ! Starter Voltage Drop . you do know that you replaced a starter for no good reason !
From the ignition switch there is a yellow wire that is for the starter. probe it when trying to start. If you have no voltage replace the switch. Also, I believe there is a fusible link in the wire by the starter. It will be a different color than purple. Probe on the back side of it to see if there is voltage at start up. If so, replace with the smae color link.
I think the purple wire (or maybe the yellow) from the neutral safety switch goes to the coil side of the starter relay, turning it on so power is sent from there to the starter solenoid. You could check for this signal to the relay with a test light. The key must be held in start while you probe the other two terminals for the relay. If the signal is there, either a bad relay or the coil side of relay is not grounded properly. It is possible that the coil side ground is the neutral safety switch-grounding the relay's coil side only in park or neutral-in which case the nagging light on shifter (between off and run, it only works?) may be telling you the safety switch is the problem.
You may need to look at a wiring diagram, Greg. But the starter relay is the last component in the start circuit before the starter solenoid. From battery to ignition switch to "crank" fuse to neutral safety switch to starter relay to starter solenoid to starter-and back to battery through ground. That is the start circuit. Just that the wiring tying them all together makes it complicated.
Does it crank or not? If no crank then look at the starter or ignition switch. If crank but no start then look at the ignition system. Check for spark at the plugs and also check the fuel pressure. If there is spark try spraying a little starting fluid into the intake. See if it starts and stays running. If it stays running reply back and I will explain why.
There a 2 red battery feed wires going into the ignition switch. When you turn the switch to start, battery voltage goes out on the heavy gage purple or yellow wire to the clutch switch or park/neutral switch ( manual or automatic) then to the starter solenoid.
Hope this helps, let me know.
im looking at that circuit , on the start relay on your radiator support , red is always hot via fusible link , purple to solenoid as you say , orange/black wire should be hot in run or start mode , if it is not the fuse for that wire is PCM/ABS 10 amp located fuse block in driver door jam , it does go through the nuetral saftey switch , the yellow wire going to the PCM must ground that relay to activate start mode . last note there is a PCM/CRANK fuse in the driver door jam also , 10 amp , if all this is good i would like to hear more . 1 more note about the nuetral saftey switch is the pink wire going in and the orange/black wire coming out should have continuity in park and nuetral ....let us know thanks