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Re: Leak in the power steering system.
SOUND LIKE POWER STEERING PRESSURE HOSE LEAKING.COPPER TUBING IS TOO SOFT METAL FOR POWER STEERING AND BRAKES SYSTEM.BUY A PRESSURE HOSE AT ANY AUTO PARTS PLACES LIKE AUTO ZONE OR ADVANCE AUTO PARTS. PRESSURE HOSE SHOULD HAVE O-RING COME WITH IT.
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first were is the leak is it at the joint or the hose ? joint you need a new hose and clamping kit. costly. hose split cut out the bad part and fix with a new part of pipe. and copper tubing and pipe clamps.... you can make a clamp if you need to put a new pipe on. you need two bits off metal with a hole in the middle of both of them so it looks like a half moon on each of them that sit the same. put the new pipe on in place put the bits off metal around the new pip on the metal and using 2 jubilees to hold in place then tighten them up tight this will clamp the metal on the pipe. when nice and tight it will be done. the pipe will turn round this is normal. if its a small leak you can use stop leak you put this in the system its thicker power steering fluid don't get the engine one it will not work. has to be for the power steering. just fill the system with this stuff. look on line and you will find the stuff have used this on a few cars as its a cheap fix and lasts for a long time. never had to use it my self but done a lot to other vehicles were they don't have the money to replace pipes. 5 year and still going. well there is all that i can hepl you with hope this helps.
It could be 2 seperate issues. The wiring harness under the dash has a long history of overheating and can result in any of the fan speeds to not work or work. Luckily this happened to my 2006 4.8L while still under warranty and they replaced the resitor harness(I can still see the plastic damaged on the plug. The heat issue usually is from low coolant, the hose assembly (in my opinion) is substandard. It is actually a "Y" hose assembly and where the 3 hoses come together, GM decided to make the "Y" out of plastic? It will leak and break within the first 5 years and cost $136+/- from dealer. If you are handy with copper, I used a 3/4in "T", along with 3/4 to 1" reducer fitting for the resivoir side and 3\4 inch hard copper tubing (about an inch or so long) on either end of the straight thru part of the copper "T". And literally cut the plastic "Y" out of the hose assembly. And used pipe screw clamps. All of the copper is availible at most home improvement stores, whowever I used HVAC braising sticks instead of regular plumbing solder to make the copper connections though I'm sure standard plumbing solder will work fine since its only 15 p.s.i.. then there is the issue of the wonderfull "quick disconnects" that will leak at the firewall going into the cabin as soon as you touch the pipe assembly. Goto auto parts store, disconnect them and cut off. Carefull now, the aluminum tubes that the "quick disconnect" fittings attached to can crush easily so when you tighten the hose clamps (yeah, did I mention to get 2 more and use them once you cut the quick disconnect off?), be carefull to not go crazy. It's improbable that you would crush the tubes, but just know that they are thin walled so use care.
Hi Us, There are a number of places where ATF can leak on the Toyota Auto box. If the leakage is from the cooling system but outside the radiator, it should be repairable. If it is leaking inside the radiator and mixing with the engine coolant, replace the radiator, or as times are hard, get a length of copper tubing and have it shaped into a 'Z' shape, connect the two rubber pipes from the gearbox to each end of it and make up suitable mountings for it to be placed in front of the condenser which is situated in front of the radiator. The cold air as you drive should cool the fluid sufficiently. Regards John
Hey man a power steering pump is not to bad to replace.First you will need to remove the belt from the pump. Then you want to disconnect the hoses going to the pump. Normally one is what you call a banjo bolt with a copper crush washer, the new pump should come with one.. I suggest having a drain pan handy it will leak some fluid. After you have all the hoses off the pump then unbolt it from its mounts on the engine and remove the pump. You will need to transfer the pulley from the old pump onto the new one.Then reinstall the pump.After it is back in place and the hoses are hooked up you will need to bleed the system.There should be a small bleeder valve on the pump. Fill the fluid to full line open the bleeder a little and start your car then turn your steering wheel lock to lock left to right and that should remove all the air from the system. I would suggest having a friend help you for this just to make it easier. note while turning the steering wheel watch the bleeder when fluid starts coming out clear with out air bubbles your done and can close the bleeder.Also do NOT over tighten the the hose bolts they are not hard to strip the threads out of and then your pump is no good.I suggest looking up the torque specs. Hope this helps
Chevrolet Cavaliers have power steering installed as standard equipment. The power steering is assisted with hydraulic pressure generated by the power steering pump. The pump circulates the fluid and makes turning the steering wheel very light and responsive to the touch. A sure sign the power steering pump is failing is when steering becomes more laborious; also look for leaking power steering fluid puddled under the car. Removing a power steering pump is not a difficult project and is the first step to repairing the power steering system. Related Searches:
The serpentine belt on the front of the Cavalier's engine provides the power to operate the power steering pump. You have to first remove the belt to free the power steering pump's drive pulley. Underneath the Cavalier is a spring-tensioned pulley keeping the serpentine belt taut. Use a socket wrench to grab the center hex nut on the tension pulley and turn it so the belt becomes loose. Remove the belt from the pulley and then from the other wheels and pulleys on the engine.
A tube runs from the pump to the power steering assist mechanism in the Cavalier near the front axle. This hard tube has two fittings on each end for a connection. Use a box-end wrench to disconnect one end of the tube underneath the Cavalier. Be careful because some power steering fluid will leak. Just hold your finger over the hole and set a container underneath the tube and wait for the fluid to drain.
Once the fluid finishes draining use the box-end wrench to disconnect the tube from the power steering pump. The tube is bent and twists to make its way through the engine bay from the pump to the power steering assist. There's no need to remove it from the bay. Just push it aside.
The power steering pump is bolted directly onto the engine block. To remove the pump, unscrew the fasteners securing it to the engine. There may or may not be thread lock compound used to seal the bolts onto the engine. If the bolts do not easily turn use some force to break the thread lock. Do not worry about doing this. Breaking thread lock is the only way to get a bolt free. Once the bolts are out, lift the pump out of the engine bay. Again, though, be careful because as you move the pump some remaining power steering fluid may drain from the access port where the tubing was connected. You might want to get a shop towel to hold over the port when moving the pump to avoid a dripping mess.
You won't go far this way. Its cheaper to tow it than replace a transmission. There are a few fluid lines to check at the transmission. Several servos and the speedometer sender are in the case.
They have gaskets and the plastic may crack. The Transmission pan can leak. The fill tube can separate from the transmission.
If the leak is coming from the inspection cover next to the engine, it can be a front seal, and if the leak is coming from where the drive-shaft slides into the transmission housing, that's a tail-shaft seal.
The fluid lines run to the front of the SUV to the Radiator where there are cooling lines going into the bottom of the Radiator. It can leak from a Radiator tank hole because there are 2 separate tanks in the Radiator. Then all you do is replace the Radiator. On some models there may be a separate Air cooled Auxiliary radiator, not to be confused with a power steering cooler.
The fluid lines will rust and need replacing. If you are trying to make a line, there are different flares for the tubing ends. Bring in your bad part to match it up.
I hope my solution is helpful to you. You need to be under the SUV to see anything. Even a quick change lube bay would make it possible to find a leak.
I just repaired a leak in my 1995 Windstar power steering system. The leak was toward the back of the engine but more toward the right (passenger side) of the car. There's not much clearance so I had to jack the front end up just to be able to look underneath. In my case the rubber hose had come off the metal tubing portion of the high pressure hose near the right wheel.
Fortunately, it had a screw type hose clamp, and barely enough working room, that allowed me to reinstall and tighten without having to remove the hose assembly. Yours sounds like there may be a break in the metal tubing, in which case the hose assembly would probably need to be replaced. Hopefully not.
Another thing that may come into play is whether the leak is on the high pressure side or the low pressure side. It seems that the high pressure hose assembly is long and winds in and around the engine. Probably a real dog to replace. Bottom line is you need to locate the leak and that will determine which hose it is and whether you need to replace or not.
I realize that this question is a few months old and has probably been corrected by now but, for others who may experience similar difficulties, have confidence, power steering systems aren't all that complicated and, usually, are not too difficult to repair. Hope this helps. - David