Replaced wires, plugs, ditributor, rotor, and still won't turn over what next

run fault codes to check for failing cam/crank position sensor

I would replace CATalitic converter, this car is old, plus a tuneup is 100% necessary , spark plugs wires, ditributor cap & rotor, plus both the air & fuel filters need replaced. change oil & filter. then you will pass emissions test. and your car will run like its suppose too. if you don't do all this , then buy a new car !

Have you checked for a vacuum leak? Be suspicious of the solenoids you see with vacuum lines going to them. I think it has 3 or 4 of them. don-ohio

Nephew had similar problem on different vehicle - had spark to plugs, limited gas, everthing else checked. I did one thing first - check for two fuel filters - one in the tank was only screens and one in the line itself. Found a little in line filter just outside of engine compartment under car next to frame that looked like it had never been changed - partially clogged - replaced it.Almost ran but would not keep running. I had rotor and cap pulled - found that the screw holding rotor in place was loose. The rotor edge next to plug wire leads was chopped up and the cap's plug wire leads were heavily oxidized. Replaced them and got it running but a little rough. Pulled the spark plugs and found gaps from 25 - 100 ---replaced the plugs with correct gapping and it ran really well.

Take out number one plug, make a wad of paper and put it just in the plug hole. Turn the engine by hand until it pops out, the engine is just about to fire on number one cylinder. Take off the distributor cap and see where the rotor is positioned, move the engine slowly and watch the points. When they just open that is the position of the number one plug lead on the cap. Firing order 1342, go around the cap with the other leads.

1979 ford 400 Drove inot shop did a cam shaft change and put all back together and no spark! put new coil , distributor, eletronic brian , wires ,rotor, cap, and check wire harness for brroken wires . still no spark? ANY IDEAS??

Sounds like firing order or you have moved 1 cyl up or down
on cap
Rule of thumb take out no 1 plug and take off cap put your thumb
over plug hole so you can feel compression stroke if you have timing
marks line them up if you look at the rotor arm this should be no 1
check firing order and away you go

Check for proper compression with a guage on #2 and #3 cyliders. Check for proper firing order. If OK, try replacement of plugs, wires and ditributor cap and rotor.

um may have a blown module in ditributor, or loose or broken ground

First the timing is easier to set with that big metal thing removed on the side of the engine. Next I set the No# 1 cylinder to TDC. If you remove the cap to the distributor it helps. They are 8mm bolts three of them.

Pull the plug and insert a platstic straw in the No 1 cylinder When it stops going completly up its at TDC I set it to 10 degrees BTDC by watching the marks on the front cranshaft pulley Never turn the engine backwards the timing belt cold come off. Sometimes its easier to remove the other plugs and turn it by hand.

Next remove the distributor Yes completly, not just the cap. Look at the 4 poles or tabs on the shaft inside the distributor and notice how they align up to the stationary pick up pole inside the distributor as the rotor shaft rotates. Put the rotor part on the shaft, and mark the spot when the rotor is pointing to the No1 spark plug wire position as it passes one of these poles This is your new timing mark.

Now put the distributor back in so the rotor is pointing to the No 1 postion or this mark. You now have a timing of 10 degrees BTDC or where ever the crank was set.

Tip: As the distributor goes in it will turn one way as it engages the gear So yu must lead the mark when you go to put the ditributor in by turning the shaft off your mark.

The distributor will rotate too, so you can align the timing mark you made on the distributor to the rotor shaft. I use white paint applied with a small touch up brush for my mark.

Also your mount bolt should fit in the slot cut in the bottom of the distributor to tighten it in place.