You will need to reset your timing. You will need a timing light to do that. Follow the directions with the light (inductive pickup timing light) for hooking it up properly (to the number one spark plug wire, that would be the one closest to the drive belt end of the engine).
Next, Remove the timing inspection plug from the transmission so you can view the timing mark and the pointer.
Next, Locate the service check connector (usually behind or above the passenger's kick panel, blue, on a wire, not fixed unit, two holes, connect them with a paper clip).
With the engine running (I'll come back to that) the pointer at the inspection point ought to line up with the mark on the flywheel and appear stationary is the timing is correct.
If you have to adjust the timing (which I think you will) loosen the three retaining bolts on the distributor and rotate the distributor until you get the line up.
Tighten the bolts and recheck the timing.
NOW, how to start the car so you can do that?
Not the first thing you will do, but you will have to turn the crankshaft so that the number one cylinder is at top dead center TDC. That means that you have to put a socket on the crankshaft bolt and turn the engine with a substantial wrench (make sure the car in not in drive). In order to tell when the piston is at it highest point, you will have to remove the number one plug, and insert a thin rod of some sort into the cylinder and watch for it to rise with the piston to its highest point.
Next, continuing to turn the engine very slowly, line up the pointer with the flywheel mark (It shouldn't be far off). This should have you at engine TDC for the compression stroke of the number one piston. Clearly, it would be best if you had somebody to help you.
But before you do any of that, you should determine which plug wire is number one on your distributor and carefully remove the distrib. cap and mark the number one wire position on the edge of the distributor body. The rotor should point at the mark when you have done the TDC procedure. If it doesn't, you will have to loosen the retaining bolts and rotate the body of the distributor until it lines up with the rotor.
That will, I think, get you started. THEN you can use the timing light to properly time the engine.
(A trick that some people use is to slightly loosen the distrib, retaining bolts and slightly rotate the distrib. while someone else is turning the engine over. Sometimes you can hit the spot where the engine will start, then you can carry out the timing light procedure.)
Sorry this is so long. I really hope that it helps you.
Comments:
Nov 07, 2009
- Now that I've seen the rest of your comments, and if you are convinced that the timing is correct, I would next guess (and it is really a guess based on some experience) would be that your fuel pump may be failing. I would have the pressure checked (if you get started and running). Failing fuel pumps are famous for working and then not working and then working again, until they quit altogether.
Sorry, this must be driving you crazy, but you will figure it out.Nov 08, 2009
- Wow! NO, it is absolutely NOT normal for fire to shoot out of a cylinder when the plug is out. I mean, what would ignite it? Something seriously wrong there. Where's the electricity coming from to cause that gas to fire? I can't imagine.
The fact that you hear the fuel pump running would suggest that it is okay, at least for starting the car. Also, you said that gas pumps out of the release (relief) port when you loosened it. If that's the case, you would have enough for starting.
One thing you could try would be to pull the spare radio fuse from your under hood box and try to start with it out. That should cause your ECU to revert to it basis (no sensor input) mode which is meant to let the engine run when there is some sensor malfunction.
I'll think some more about it, but that fire from cylinder one is pretty strange.Nov 08, 2009
- Okay, this may sound out of left field, but I'm beginning to think that you dropped a timing belt. Here's why. First, you say that it cut off while you were driving, which is very typical of the way Honda timing belts go, without warning. Second, the only reason I can think of that you would get fire from a cylinder with the plug removed is that the valves are completely out of sync. with the pistons so that spark from another cylinder is traveling through open valves and into the number one. Third, I didn't ask, but does the sound it makes when it trying to start sound a little unusual, like the whole engine isn't turning over (which is a sound they make when just the pistons are going up and down, but the camshaft is not turning and opening and closing the valves). I would pull the belt cover and check the timing belt.
This car of yours is starting to make ME crazy (just kidding). Let me know what you find.Nov 08, 2009
- Yes, I would be hard for one of the valves to be open if you set all the timing marks correctly. The only problem with setting time that will occasionally occur is that you can set it for the exhaust stroke (when the piston is all the way up, but it is 180 degrees away from the compression stroke, which also has the piston all the way up). That's unlikely though, because your other marks would be way off, such as the mark on the flywheel. You would have had to move everything dramatically to get that position.
I know that you indicate that the timing belt was recently changed, but I think you have to check to see if it has broken, or if it has jumped teeth because the tensioner was not probably adjusted when the new belt was put in. If it's broken, it should be detectable if you pull the valve cover and. Valve cover is pretty simple removal, couple bolts hold it on and some items (throttle cable, etc.) are detached and pushed aside. If you get the valve cover off and have someone turn the starter over briefly, you should be able to tell from that if it's the belt. If that belt is broken, your valves won't be moving. Of course, that won't tell you if it has simply jumped some teeth, but you can think about that later. So, get some rest and go at it.Nov 09, 2009
- I think that's what your fuel pump should be doing. It just runs until the system builds sufficient pressure to work the injectors and start the car. I'm pretty sure it won't run indefinitely.
I really REALLY think that you should pull your valve cover to see what is going on with the valves. The fire in number one without the plug strongly suggests that the valves just aren't in sync with the pistons. Since you have the distributor timing right, I have to think that the valve timing (kept in time by the timing belt) is off. The valve cover really is difficult to remove, just two bolts and you also pop out your pvc valve and, I think, recoil the throttle cable until you can get it out of its slot (same way in).
I would do that. If those valve aren't moving when you turn the car over, that's the problem.Nov 09, 2009
- I should have said that the cover ISN'T difficult to remove. Just a bit tired today.Nov 09, 2009
- Okay, I checked on when the pump should run. It should run only briefly when you turn the key on (but don't start the car) enough to pressurize the system. It begins running again after the car starts, so it seems to be doing what it ought to do.
Timing belt, I think.Nov 10, 2009
- Best that we don't take up so much on this tread. Get me at
philschneider@cox.net. I have a long thing for you to read. It may help.
Expert
