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Check the conection of the coolant fan sensor or may be you have the the fan workin straight or the coolan sensor is disconected or probably you turned on the car with the switch on. So disconect your battery for at least 1 minute and check to see if the light goes of
Hi, I'm assuming your solenoid is not clicking. If that is the case, the problem is either the ignition switch or the interlock. The interlock is under the clutch pedal if you have a manual transmission or screwed into the transmission if you have an automatic.
Under neight the dash if you follow the arm of the clutch up there shoud be a coil spring conected to the clutch if it came disconected the clutch will just flop around....Most of the time it is not the case but is possible. also check the clutch arm just before it goes into the transmission there is a adjustment arm the cable has a nut on each side if one of the nouts back off it will be able to pop out from the arm and the clutch will not work
ok sounds like you have a dead battery
1) if turns but slowly:
posible causes:
1.1) old dead batery/
or underchaged battery >check altenator in this case
did you leave your headlights turnt on and drained the battery of its charge?if so get a jump start and then run the car for 30-45 mins to rechagre the battery
if you have at your disposal anothere batery that you know has a good charge
try starting your car with that batery(not using jumper cables) hook it up!
if the slugish turn over is still there
1.2) check your wire conections for corision this means completly disconecting 1 lead at a time (only on one end of that lead)and cleaning them with a wire brush or some sand paper.
(on the battery and the starter also the ground strap conection to the frame.)
2) WONT TURN OVER AT ALL:
posible causes:
2.0) dead battery >try charging it>get a jump start
2.1) blown turnkey igntion fuse
2.2) blow fuse for main har nes wires
2.3) bad starter
2.4) corosion on wire conection (most often the batery terminals)
2.5) starter replaced and hooked up incorectly.
2.6) alram system preventing the turnkey igntion system from getting power
Ensure the battery conection is good...clean the battery conection thouroghly and re-connect. If you have a volt/Ohm meter, the resistance between the post and the terminal, should be less than 5 Ohm's.
On another note; the POS battery terminal is also the input to the ECM...a bad connection could eventully cause a check engine light and can also cause a total intermittent electrical failure (symtoms would be a bump that could occur two or three times in a five mile trip and not be consistant; meaning the same trip the bump might happen seven times...or not at all),
you need to put your head under the dash where the top of the clutch pedal is to get off the cable end if its hard to do dissconnect it at the gearbox clutch fork first and dont forget to back off the adjusting nuts and re do them with the new cable
Hi,check if the compressor clutch is engaging,if not check the conection at the compressor if ok check,fuse ,or relay ,if those are fine and the commpressor is engaging,check freon presure ,may be too high or low, if this is the case ,correct the problem and disconect the negative cable from the battery for a minute to reprogram the sistem..C1
Cable Operated Clutch:
Stretched, frayed or binding cable, broken or bent pedal bracket, or cracked firewall can be the cause. Problems with a cable mechanism will often herald internal clutch problems as well. When something happens inside the clutch that requires extra force to be exerted on the clutch pedal, things break! Cables can also wear simply from age and use.
Hydraulically Operated Clutch:
Clutch master cylinder leaking or bypassing pressure, slave cylinder leaking, clutch flex hose leaking, pedal bushings worn or missing, or a cracked firewall can reduce the system’s ability to disengage the clutch. Rule of thumb: If the clutch master cylinder is bad, replace both master and slave cylinders as a pair. This will save you future heartache.
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