What are the symtoms of a bad clutch switch - Ranger Ford Cars & Trucks

which engine? some run diffr. clutch setups.
how to do it, that the question?, or was that is there one.
first look at it, is it the hydraulic operated or cable.
the former has no such adjustments.
the later does. and is about 1/2" pedal play
adjust it to that at the cable end, adjuster
why not post symtoms
clutch dragging? or slipping? or chattering or or or..
or
pedal acts dead.
we've answered this many times here, "search yet"
no my guess, on engine and whats there (not guessing)
i checked alldata.com shows HYD. clutch acutation

so is the master cylinder fluid level correct (i bet not)
seen here,

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1355857&parttype=1996


if not the slave is leaking (bad)
or both, master and slave are bad. this old a car.
new parts bleed just like brakes do. using DOT 3 or 4

if it worked before why a new clutch,,,(context wins, here/??????)
ok, so you the clutch is failing,
you never posted the symtoms, not really
does car start in gear with clutch depresses, or start to move
does car take off in 1st ?
or is it just moving fast issues>????
cant up shift, cant down shift
hard to shift. (blocks)
grinds.

my wild guess, based on no input is the clutch linkage,
was never adjustED
the side kicks (not sport 1.8L) all have
cable clutches, and the 1 inch rule stated here.
i bet you didnt adjust it or the linkage splines are damaged.
or the pedal is cracked , caused by bad cable.
always replace the cable first. is it breaks other things if not.

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html


tell the full story and get ,very accurate tests to do,
and inspections.

please post a real question,
1: symtoms.? is the reverse lamps both dead>? or what?
2: ask a real question, where, how to, , what,

where to buy a PRNDL switch
how to fix a bad one (ask)
how to remove it
where can i buy one.?
who has the best price
who make the best switch (jeep)
how to tests the switch

like that , post a real question. please

DONT overfill with oil,,thats just as bad as not having enough..Theres two things probably going on..Either you have a bad oil pressure switch,,or you are having a low oil pressure problem..Sometimes i heard that a cheap oil filter can cause that too..Is there any other symtoms,,like excessive ticking when the light comes on,,or does the vehicle act different..If no other symtoms its probably the oil pressure switch,,If you know how to work on cars or know a good mechanic,,you can put a pressure gauge and that will tell ya for sure

It could very well be the slave cylinder, you will be better of to replace it.

the booster is the problem, or a hole or leak in vacuum line to booster check the check valve also ! from manifold. heres the symtoms of a bad brake booster. primary symtom is a hard pedal on application, to test booster. pump brakes several times with engine off. to deplete stored vacuum. turn on engine with pushing slightly on brake pedal. you should feel the pedal fade away abit and then become firm. but not hard. if you feel nothing at pedal when engine starts, brake booster is not working! check the vacuum lines first!!

Thank you for the clarification, if this is happenning when you have the clutch out, I would suspect that your clutch is slipping. Does the engine rev, but you don't go any faster? If this is the case, and it being a hydraulic clutch, (meaning that there is no real adjustment) then it probably means that your clutch is bad. If these are not your symtoms, then contact us and we'll figure it out.

you have a big problem? i have to go there is another person with no clutch but they are telling me all the symtoms and what happened before and after etc,like spending a little time to explain .adrian,,,,,,,

The symptoms of a bad throwout bearing is a horrible noise that ONLY occurs when you are pressing on the clutch. And/or you have no clutch action at all - the car is either in gear or it's in neutral. Sounds just like your situation alright.

Usually bad throwout bearings damage pressure plate fingers to the point that they need replacing too. And while they are in there, they will want to replace the clutch disk too. And then lathe the flywheel flat again so that they don't have a repeat customer complaining about the lousy clutch $job$ he just got. Flat flywheels supposedly won't chatter on take off or clutch engagement, but it could be hose job where you get soaked as well.

I went this route once on a gremlin - $500. The only reason I paid up was that I had a real good job at the time, and then I've never been back either.

It could be that the clutch is hanging up somehow. It will give you the same symtoms. I would also look at the shifting linkage. Possible but doubtful. Check to be sure.