I had many problems with what i thought was my starter/ignition and replaced my alternator and battery. tho they were helpful, ultimately the problem was a small fusible link that had needed to be replaced, as it was over heating and when it would it would stop whatever electrical signal was imperitive to the car actually running. if i was driving and the wire over heated, it would stop running right on the road. i just used some 12 AWG stranded wire and it stopped stalling.i discovered it by accident when i touched the wire and noticed it was excessively hot and worn down. it was located in the upper right hand corner under the hood, where there are 3 wires, brown and black.
I have seen this problem before. To fix the problem, we have to pinpoint exactly where the problem is (whether it is ignition or fuel related). Do you know how to check for spark or have a spark tester. What I would like to know is whether there is spark from the coil wire (primary) and spark plug wires (secondary) after it dies? If not, then you know its an ignition system problem. Then check the voltage going into the coil at the + and - terminals and let me know what it is. If the ignition is suspect, you should probably have it checked with an oscilloscope so you can see the pattern of the ignition firing. That will dramatically help show what is going on with the ignition firing.
On the other hand, if the ignition spark seems strong after it dies, you need to look to the fuel injectors possibly having intermittent problems. These are tough to diagnose without specialized tools like an injector tester.
Also, have you retrieved your trouble codes from the engine computer? You need to ground the test connector near the drivers side shock tower to get the trouble codes from the flashing check engine light. If there is a stored code, it will tell you where to look for the problem. For example, you could have a bad sensor that is giving the computer (ECA) the wrong information. Once the car warms up, the computer goes into open loop and then problems can begin if its getting wrong information from sensors. There are specialized tools that can test the computer and the car's sensors that I have.
Faulty Fuel pump will do it or breather pipe on fuel tank not breathing.
Coil overheating and braking down when hot ..when cools down away it goes again????
it does sound that its due to overheating BUT a another alternator or distributor wasent needed as nither would give you the problem..So check all above and let me know how you get on Ron
Testimonial: "to the point "
I would also consider the vane airflow sensor. I had a "flat spot" on mine when I hooked it to a meter. It told the car it was flooded and stopped the flow of the fuel. You can test this by looking for the 3 wore assembly near the steering column under the hood. Use a paperclip to bridge between 2 of the 3 prongs in the plastic clip. If you remain running then you probably have a bad vane airflow sensor. I paid about $80 for mine rebuilt.
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