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Posted on Oct 16, 2009
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Air conditioning noise

When my car has the economy mode turned off, the fan is extremely noisy. In addition, the engine rpms are slightly higher when the air conditioning is turned on versus when it is in economy mode. Any ideas on what could cause this?

I do not notice a performance issue, but I am concerned about a more serious problem.

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  • Posted on Oct 16, 2009
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Joined: May 01, 2009
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It is normal the computer adjusts the engine rpm in economy mode to save gas out of economy mode everything runs a little more because the computer is'nt holding them back

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0helpful
1answer

Ticking clacking noise gets a lot louder when air conditioning fan is turned to high, is this normal?

look at your idler pulley since the ac clutch runs on the serpintine belt its moving alot faster the berings are prob bad in it takes 10 minutes to take off and 17 dollars to replace n another ten but if you take it off spin it in your hand if its rubbing n stopping fast(should spen fast like a skateboard wheel) then its bad that could be all it good luck hope this helps
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1answer

Whenever I turned on the air condition in my Ford Explorer 2006, after few second the radiator Fan start running very frequently on high speed making noise. When the fan starts on high the rpm of the...

The cooling fan is supposed to come on when the /ac compressor clutch cycles on, and off when it cycles off.
The idle speed kicks up to compensate for the additional a/c compressor load and the additional alternator load. usually, just the low speed comes on until it hits a much higher temperature.

the system should cycle 4 to 7 times/minute at 79 degrees F.

Here are some things to consider:(The PCM (engine computer) is NEVER defective, don't replace it). I don't think it is the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor) or the Cylinder Head Temp Sensor. Or the VSS or the MAF sensors.


The electronically controlled fan clutch is controlled by the powertrain control module (PCM) based upon requests for airflow to cool the engine, transmission and A/C condenser. If no cooling is required, the electronics permit the fan to spin at a slower speed yielding improved fuel economy.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Inoperative or damaged:
  • Electronically actuated fan clutch
  • Electronically actuated fan clutch controller
  • Wiring, connectors, relays or modules
  • Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor (4.0L SOHC)
  • Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) sensor (4.6L [3V])
  • Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
  • Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
  • ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
If the cause is not visually evident, connect the scan tool to the Data Link Connector (DLC).
Retrieve any DTC Codes (Diagnostic Test Code). Autozone will do for free.

--------------------------------------------------------------

The cooling fan clutch actuator valve controls the fluid flow from the reservoir into the working chamber. Once viscous fluid is in the working chamber, shearing of the fluid results in fan rotation.

The cooling fan clutch actuator valve is activated with a pulse width modulated (PWM) output signal from the powertrain control module (PCM). By opening and closing the fluid port valve, the PCM can control the cooling fan clutch speed. The cooling fan clutch speed is measured by a Hall-effect sensor and is monitored by the PCM during closed loop operation.

The PCM optimizes fan speed based on engine coolant temperature (ECT), engine oil temperature (EOT), transmission fluid temperature (TFT), intake air temperature (IAT), or air conditioning requirements. When an increased demand for fan speed is requested for vehicle cooling, the PCM monitors the fan speed through the Hall-effect sensor. If a fan speed increase is required, the PCM outputs the PWM signal to the fluid port, providing the required fan speed increase.

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0helpful
1answer

Lost gas milage

There are literally dozens of potential causes for a decrease in fuel economy - many of them will also cause other symptoms with the way the vehicle operates, which can be helpful in diagnosing the problem. Some of the more common ones are:

* Fuel/Intake System Restrictions - Dirty air filters, fuel filters, and fuel injectors make your engine work harder to generate the same amount of power at the wheels, thus wasting more of its own energy and reducing mileage. This is probably the most common cause of gradual fuel economy loss because, unless the problem is severe, computer controls can usually compensate such that the average driver doesn't notice any issues. This is why it's important to stick to maintenance schedules, even if it seems unnecessary at the time.

* Engine Management Problems - Modern vehicles rely heavily on computer controls to "fine-tune" the engine in real time for maximum efficiency; an assortment of sensors monitor various engine parameters and feed data to the computer that allow it to make adjustments as conditions warrant. Most of these sensors are subjected to some "hostility" during operation (high temperatures, corrosive gases, contaminants, mechanical wear, etc) and do occasionally fail, preventing the computer from correctly doing its job and consequently reducing efficiency. Similarly, the computer in turn uses some electronic and electromechanical devices to actually control the engine, which can suffer the same fate. Problems of this type will almost always turn the Check Engine light on and cause additional driveability issues (rough idle, poor acceleration, stalling, etc).

* Wheel-End Problems - Low tire pressure is another common cause of low fuel mileage. Low pressure allows a greater portion of the tire tread to contact the road, increasing friction and sapping power (it also causes accelerated and abnormal tire wear). Wheel alignment problems cause similar issues by forcing tires to "drag" across the pavement to some degree, rather than roll smoothly. Less commonly, malfunctioning braking or all-wheel drive systems can cause additional drag at one or more wheels, wasting power.

* Environmental Issues - The environment and manner in which a vehicle is operated can have a big impact on its fuel economy that you might not consider unless you stop to think about it. Your mileage may decrease in snow, for example, because you spend more time in stop-and go conditions and in low gear, or in the summer months if you drive more aggressively. Changes in overall driving habits (going from mostly highway to lots of city driving) can also play a big role.

* "Parasitic" Problems - The engine is ultimately the source of all power used by every system in the vehicle, and as such, any part of the vehicle operating in an inefficient manner has the potential to reduce fuel economy. Clutch/transmission slippage, for example, can cause a dramatic loss in fuel economy, as can regenerative braking malfunctions in hybrid vehicles. Engine accessory problems (water pumps, alternators, etc) can put fuel-wasting drag on the engine, as can internal mechanical problems of the engine itself (these types of problems usually make themselves apparent in other ways - a bad alternator will cause electrical problems or make noise, for example). Even body damage or modifications can increase wind drag, decreasing fuel economy.

One last thing to keep in mind: it is entirely possible for several causes to simultaneously contribute slight effects which all add together to cause a more pronounced problem; hence, it isn't always possible to pinpoint a single "silver bullet" that will cure poor fuel economy, especially in higher-mileage vehicles.


0helpful
1answer

My 1990 Toyota corolla XL is consuming too much gasoline. Is there any solution to solve this problem?

Try this Basic Tips: First up, here are some of the more conventional tips that you might have read about elsewhere. Most of them follow common sense; if you make your engine work harder, it burns more gas:
* Do not use quick accelerations or brake heavily.
* Do not drive at higher speeds.
* Combine trips to reduce driving with a cold engine and on frequent short trips.
* Remove excess weight and/or cargo racks. Do not tow unless absolutely necessary.
* Minimize running mechanical and electrical accessories (e.g. air conditioning).
* Avoid driving on hilly or mountainous terrain if possible.
* Do not use 4-wheel drive if it is not needed.

In practice, this means driving very differently that you might now. You want to accelerate your emptied car as slowly as possible, and continue to drive as slowly as possible once you go past about 30 mph, especially on freeways. You want to be aware so that the second you may need to stop or can coast, you can take your foot off the gas pedal immediately. Don't use air conditioning, do use cruise control. Track your mpg with a mileage log to measure any improvements. (Most people do not ever achieve the given EPA fuel economy ratings for their vehicle.)

Advanced Tactics: Here we get into some more extreme behavior. Note that not all hypermilers engage in these activities, these are simply the ones that push the envelope. Some may be considered dangerous, or even illegal in certain areas:
* Use an real-time fuel economy meter. If you don't have a hybrid with a built-in meter, get yourself something like the ScanGuage II.
* Inflate tires to much higher pressures. Higher tire pressures -> Lower rolling resistance -> better fuel economy. They recommend not just inflating to the psi recommended by your car, but the maximum sidewall rating allowed by your tire manufacturer. Some members even take advantage of the "factor of safety" that engineers use and pump it up to 25% over the max rating. 50+ psi is not unheard of.
* Switch to a special motor oil. Using low kinematic viscosity oil helps improve mpg.
* Forced Autostop: Turn off engine whenever possible. If you're slowly stopping to a red light or just coasting, turn off your combustion engine completely ("force" it to "stop"). Keep the engine off while idle, and only start it up when you're ready to go again. This reduces losses due to running the engine at idle.
* Pulse and Glide. This consists of driving using alternating periods of accelerating ("pulse") and coasting ("glide"), and then repeating the process. It is most efficient if you turn off the engine and coast in neutral while coasting.
* Draft behind big rigs or large vehicles. Take advantage of the turbulent air behind a big rig on the freeway by driving as close as you feel comfortable behind it. The resulting lower air drag means you need less gas.

Hope helps.
4helpful
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What does the A/T buttom mean on my 2000 mitsubishi Montero Sport Mean?

The A/T button is the power/economy mode which changes the shift points at which it up and downshifts. The A/T mode would be good for towing a trailor or a load inside the car up hill where you would want the engine to shift at higher RPMs so it would not be shifting so much back and forth everytime you go up and down a hill.
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1answer

My ac compressor is not workin well

You need to have your pressues check at lower rpms it sounds like your a/c compressor doesn't have enough of a charge to remove the heat from the air but at higher rpms it can because higher rpms means higher flow and higher pressure.
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Accasionally a noise coming from engine whinning noise

this type of noise is usually caused by a defective power steering pump.
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Car overheating

fan relay or fan motors also try the fan fuses
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1987 Toyota Celica overheats when air conditioning is turned on

Hi

The first thing to check is that the engine cooling fan comes on when you turn on the air conditioning, then you should check the condition of the radiator fins. If they are clogged with debris (dead insects, leaves, etc...) then you will need to get a pressure washer onto it through the front grill and try to blast it clear.

When you switch on the aircon, it puts extra stress on the engine, which causes the fuel economy and engine power to drop, and as a result the engine will naturally run hotter, so it needs a bit of help to cool down in the form of the engine cooling fan.

Regards

Geordie
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Check the fan assembly probably located behind your glovebox. The fan could be off-center.
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