2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor
Problem for Mitsubishi 2004 Endeavor

The engine won't start, when you turn the key,




By brandylynn07 on Oct 14, 2009

" "
the engine won't start, when you turn the key, there's a loud fast click. and when you stop, there's a quieter, slower click that lasts several seconds or until you take the key out of the ignition.
Comments:

Oct 14, 2009

- We took the battery to the auto parts store to have it tested and it's fine. When we put it back in, the truck started fine, but still sounds like it's trying to stall a bit every once in a while.

Oct 15, 2009

- We took the battery to the auto parts store to have it tested and it's fine. When we put it back in, the truck started fine, but still sounds like it's trying to stall a bit every once in a while.

Oct 15, 2009

- i should have been more specific earlier. the trouble started when we noticed the presets on the radio were gone but the clock was still working fine. my husband drove to work, and the truck didn't want to start, kind of like the battery was low. then it wouldn't start at all. after he tried, it completely lost power, the locks didn't work the trunk wouldn't open, nothing. After it would sit for a while some of the power came back but the engine wouldn't turn over. we tried jumping it, charging it, but when the key turned the starter or whatever just clicked. he took the battery out and took it to the auto parts store to have it checked. about 45 minutes later, he put it back in and it crunk up! it acted like it maybe wanted to lose power, but not really stall once or twice, but now it's fine... i drove it to the store down the road and it did fine. i know something has to be wrong, though so i'm not going to go far in it until it's looked at.

Oct 15, 2009

- i should have been more specific earlier. the trouble started when we noticed the presets on the radio were gone but the clock was still working fine. my husband drove to work, and the truck didn't want to start, kind of like the battery was low. then it wouldn't start at all. after he tried, it completely lost power, the locks didn't work the trunk wouldn't open, nothing. After it would sit for a while some of the power came back but the engine wouldn't turn over. we tried jumping it, charging it, but when the key turned the starter or whatever just clicked. he took the battery out and took it to the auto parts store to have it checked. about 45 minutes later, he put it back in and it crunk up! it acted like it maybe wanted to lose power, but not really stall once or twice, but now it's fine... i drove it to the store down the road and it did fine. i know something has to be wrong, though so i'm not going to go far in it until it's looked at.

Oct 15, 2009

- yeah, i'm from the south. things crank and are crunk, lol.

Best Solution

posted on Oct 14, 2009
Very Helpful)

co7196

Rank: Wiz  Cars  Expert
Rating: 85%, 1096 votes
Ck the negative battery cable on both ends. remove, clean and reinstall. It is a poor connection. Or a shot battery.
Comments:

Oct 15, 2009

- Ok, good and thank you.We know now it is not the lack of sufficient power. I own a 2003 Chevy silverado and keeping in mind that Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards apply to Domestic AND foreign vehicles sold in the U,S,. This includes Braking systems and antilock braking. Now, In reviewing my owners manual and having an understanding of the braking sydstem I'd like to point out that the santilock braking system has a self testit does whenever the vehicle is started and periodically while in use. If yhe system is not balance it trys to find out by resetting itself and doing other diagnostics. So at this point I would have to say this is what you are up against. As relays and solenoids wear and noise insulators age the activity that is normally done behind the scene, get more and more noticeable.. Unless the sounds are not relative to any malfunctions, The sequencing of a self diagnostic componant should not be a concern. My owners manual specifically addressed the clicking and I have never heard any sequencing or clicking. I contribute this fact to location, insulation, mounting and awareness of it possibly being there. So, If this helped you accept the distracting and irritating clicking, I pleased. If you would like, locate the componant that is clicking and check its mounting. I doubt it can be relocated due to engineering. But good luck. If you can locate an owners manual for your year, make, and model. You can browse through it and check for mention of ABS characteristis. Good Luck and Feel free to call out with any questions you may have. _Ned_

Oct 15, 2009

- does it stop immediately when the key is removed? There is a possibility the heater/ac/vent blower is running, It's part of the flow through ventilationalways running at low speed . The key is the thing. There are no electrical in the key slot that would turn anything on without turning,. Try this, If you have a multimeter, disconnect the battery + and put the volt meter in series between the postive cable and batt tpositive terminal., If something turns on when you slip yhe key in, it will show on the meter.
Have the one doing the key listen closely for and fan that may turn on. I think the blower motor is running and clipping something, If you can gey to the blower inlet, use a mirror and flashlight, check for may a piece of paper that could ha been sucked in or aany other object the fan could skip over. It is a squirel cage fan so the tivking or clicking will be close together.

Oct 15, 2009

- That s no problem. Specifics come to the surface eventually. I reread my own and noticed Ihave trouble understanding myself. So, we need to make sure it will be somewhat dependable in the starting category. I didn't say anything about the charging system. You mentioned the battery tested good and I completely went off into the clicking noise. I'm sorry. It appears the question would be more about maintaining the battery charge so I'll try to help on the subject of the charging system.
If your husband has a multimeter, Have him check the charging rate at the battery posts. The reading should be between 13.6v -14.2v. The lower the voltage the higher the amps going into the battery from the Alternater. In turn, The higher the voltage the lower yhe amps. I.e. @ 13.6v the alternater is charging at 90% capacity and @ 14,2v it is charging at 20% capacity.Charging voltage lower than 13volts is moving towards the maximum output of the alternater and if that is maintained too long, the alt. will overheat and fail.This usually occurs when a battery is defective. Jump starting another vehicle with a defective battery will also take out your alternater. An Alt. is not a battery charger, it is for maintaining a charge of a battery with a good charge to start with. One thingto keep in mind is thhat even a maintenance free battery needs maintenance.The maintenance free part is that it will last until you will accept it is old enough to replace and that is usually just past warranty expiration.I won't drag on. Your probably not into knowing or wanting to know this stuff. Anyway, get some readings and if anything else comes up, feel free to get my attention. Mechanics have a poblem with that crunk up thing also. So to savoid it when an engine starts we say it lit off or it fired up and when it just cranks we say it rolls over or spins but it just won't fire. But, I liked your crunked. Good Luck &have a good day. _Ned_Your name?
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" Thank you both. I will look into both of these possibilities. " - brandylynn07

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