1997 Jeep Cherokee 4WD 4.0L Cranks, but will not start. Checked for spark at plug wire (none), checked cap & rotor (apper ok), checked for spark at coil wire (none), checked for voltage at coil feed (none). CPS sensor bad? can you check for voltage at crank speed, if so what is the correct value? What else are common failures on these?
cps should be checked for continuity with an ohm-meter between the b&c terminals at the connector. It should show none (same reading as when both meter leads are not touching each other.) anything other than that reaqding is bad. I'm going to check and see if my schematic shows if there should be power there though...I think there should be (on hot side of the coil)cps should be checked for continuity with an ohm-meter between the b&c terminals at the connector. It should show none (same reading as when both meter leads are not touching each other.) anything other than that reaqding is bad. I'm going to check and see if my schematic shows if there should be power there though...I think there should be (on hot side of the coil)
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Yellow means weak spark should be blue check the coil tower where the coil wire attaches on the coil for corrosion. Also check the spark plugs for wear.
You need to check the basics of combustion; Is there spark at the plug wires? Do the fuel injectors receive the pulse to fire, from the ecu? Does the fuel pump turn on for a second, when the ignition is initially turned on? All of these problems I have mentioned are related to the ecu being faulty.
only 3 things will cause this engine not to start (crank and not start) fuel, ignition, timing. You haven't mentioned the engine cranks over or not, so I have to assume it cranks over. Possible timing chain or the crank sensor on the timing chain. Have you checked this? you need to remove number 1 spark plug & when the piston is in the full top position on compression, remove the dist cap & see what spark plug wire the rotor is pointing to inside the dist cap. (I'm sure if you google checking for top dead center you'll find the proper procedure)
Here are a couple of things that could be causing your problem.
1. Bad ignition coil or ignition module
2. Clogged fuel filter
3. Clogged air filter
4. Clogged fuel injectors
5. Bad spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and /or rotor.
6. Broken timing chain/belt.
Here are a few things you can try to verify that you have a good spark.
1. Remove the distributor cap and crank the car. If the rotor turned you're ok. If it doesn't turn then that's you're problem and you will probably need to change a timing belt/chain.
2. Check the spark from the ignition coil by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor. Use an alligator clip to attach a short wire to the coil wire contact. Bare the other end of this short wire and set it up so it's sitting very close to the engine block. Turn off the lights and try to start the car. You should see a spark jump from this wire to the block. If you don't see a spark it's likely your ignition module or ignition coil is bad.
3. If you have a spark maybe it's not getting to the plugs. You may need to replace the distributor cap and rotor. You can test if the plugs are sparking by pulling one, re-attaching the spark plug wire and seeing if you get a spark when you try to start the engine in the dark. Please note, the metal threads of the spark plug need to be shorted to the engine block to complete the circuit during this test.
cps should be checked for continuity with an ohm-meter between the b&c terminals at the connector. It should show none (same reading as when both meter leads are not touching each other.) anything other than that reaqding is bad. I'm going to check and see if my schematic shows if there should be power there though...I think there should be (on hot side of the coil)
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