Question about 2005 Toyota Highlander

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Heat a/c problem

How difficult is it to get behind dash to wires and resolder ? Can I unscrew a few bolts, to expose wires, solder ,then all goes back together simply, or should I reserve a day to disassemble,fix and put back together. ? thanks Marie

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  • Toyota Master
  • 1,861 Answers

Hi.

I assume that you are having issues with the heat controller; which is a very common problem. And, it costs over 900 dollars to replace it, when all is wrong with it are 2 broken wires.

Unfortunately, you have to completely remove the heater controller from the dash, and completely disassemble it to gain access to the 2 wires that need soldered, it is impossible to gain access to the wires with the unit in the dash. When you get it apart, look for 2 broken wires at the sub-PC board (from the knob) going to the main PC board. Also, to avoid having these wires break again, make sure that the nut behind the knob is real tight; if it is loose, it allows the board to rotate, and snap the wires.

I would recommend that you reserve a day for this project.

Thanks for choosing FixYa for your solution.

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks, so for this day project, can someone give me any disassembly instructions or site with a diagram to speed up the process of taking this apart?"

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1 Answer

How do you remove cd changer from an 06 forester


Is it in dash or the multi in back

unscrew dash plate around radio use a magnetic screw driver because the screws are in the two front vents once thes removed the dash radio plate should pop off without force exposing radio behind unscrew that unplug wires pull rest the way out

now the advice
make sure if your replacing with aftermarket make sure your wire leads are connected correctly no splicing of main wires in dash thats nono trouble as wires now have multifunctions to them it should be simple as plug and play

May 09, 2014 | 2005 Subaru Forester

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How to install Radio in Honda Accord


Things You'll Need:

* Stereo
* Wiring harness
* Dash kit
* Phillips screwdriver
* Heat shrink
* Lighter
* Wire strippers
* Wire caps


In order to install A Radio first follow steps of Removing the Factory Radio


#1
Open the center console, and you'll see two phillips screws at the bottom. Unscrew both of them.

#2
Remove the drink tray, and unscrew three more phillips screws. The center console is now loose enough to move.

#3
Pull the center console back a few inches to expose two more screws under the plastic part of the gear shift. Remove these screws.

#4
Pull the ashtray out of the dash, and you'll see one more phillips screw. Remove this screw and pull off the plastic panel around the factory stereo.

#5
Locate the metal tray under the factory pocket (below the stereo), and pull it out of the dash. There will be two phillips screws holding it in place; remove those, and then pull the stereo out of the dash. You'll need to unplug the wiring harness that is plugged into the back of the radio.


Now Install The New Stereo

#1
Assemble the dash kit, as shown in the instructions. Put it into the dash where you just took the stereo out. There will be a rectangular opening, and a pocket underneath. The opening is where the radio will go.

#2
Secure the dash kit by screwing in the one screw in the ash tray, and the two in the opening of the panel.

#3
Insert the metal cage that came with the stereo into the opening above the pocket. Ensure that the fit is flush with the pocket. Using a screwdriver, bend the metal tabs upward, which holds the metal cage in place.

#4
Start wiring the stereo harness to the wiring harness. Match wires color by color until all of the wires are paired. For example, if you find a purple wire coming out of the aftermarket wiring harness, plug it into a purple wire from the factory harness. You aren't touching any of the wires in your dash on this step, you are simply wiring the new stereo to the wiring harness.

To connect these wires you'll want to place a piece of heat shrink over one of the wires, strip the ends, twist both ends together, and then pull the heat shrink over the exposed metal parts of the two wires. Heat the heat shrink with a lighter until it shrinks and forms a tight bond between the two wires. When done correctly, you won't be able to pull the wires apart.

#5
Plug the aftermarket harness into the factory plug, and insert the radio back into the dash. If you find wires that don't have a match, be sure to cap them so that the ends aren't exposed. Exposed wires are what cause shorts and electrical problems.

#6
Work in reverse order to put the dash back together. The radio won't be secure in the dash until the dash is put back together.

Hope this helps

Thanks

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Heater & A/C blower motor not working? Possible fix found here.


Having issues with your blower motor not working or working intermittently? The most likely cause is a burnt electrical connector at the blower motor resistor. Typically the fan won't come on no matter what position you have the switch in. The connector is thin and will melt. This causes the metal part to be loose and either the motor quits working or it only works when it wants to. If you are sitting in the passenger seat with your toes facing up, they are nearly pointing at the blower motor. Next to the blower motor is the resistor. It looks like this:
72b7e7d.jpg
The single wire (blue with white stripe) is the one that is the problem. That picture was taken after the repair. The connector looks like this:

3f69548.jpg
Notice how the wire is blackend and the white plastic part is melted? This is why the motor doesn't work like it should. We are going to replace this connector with one that isn't melted or burnt and should fit tight enough to hold itself on the resistor. You may find it easier to do all of this work if you remove the blower motor from the dash.
Tools
* Female electrical spade terminals for 10-12 gauge wire. I bought mine from Auto Zone, they look like this:

bf89d69.jpg
* Wire stripper or sharp knife you can use to cut insulation off.
* Solder and soldering iron. If you don't want to use one, you don't have to. I advise that you do. I used 60/40 rosin core solder.
* Crimping tool.
* Shrink tubing for 10-12 gauge wire. You'll need a ligher or heat gun to shrink the tubing.
* 8mm socket and rachet.
* Wire cutters.
Getting Started
1. Unhook the two connectors from the resistor and remove the three bolts from the blower motor that hold the motor to the bottom of the dash.

72b7e7d.jpg
There are three of these bolts, 8mm.

d857d5c.jpg
As you pull the blower down, pay attention to how the wires are held in by this clip. The clip goes through the blower motor housing and is only there to route the wires out of the way.

61d5fb7.jpg
2. With the blower out of the dash you have some slack to work with in the wires. Cut the connector off the wire as close to the connector as you can.

3f69548.jpg
3. Slide some heat shrink tubing (about 3" of tubing) over the wire now. This way it won't be difficult later. Slide it as far on the wire as you can so the heat of soldering doesn't shrink the tubing.

1f48bf3.jpg
4. Now you'll need to remove enough of the insulation to insert into the new connector. You only need to take enough off so that it hits the little stop tab on the connector. It ends up being about 1mm or so. Before putting the connector on, remove the plastic tip if it has one. Mine had a yellow tip, just use some pliers to remove it.

309ff72.jpgaff71f7.jpg87b2936.jpg
Then crimp the connector down. If you don't have a crimping tool, just use some pliers.

6c29a50.jpg
5. Now you need to solder the connection. You will be putting the solder on top where the wire meets the little stop on the connector. Heat the connector up from the back so that the solder flows onto the wire instead of the soldering iron. Only use enough solder to cover the wire. Too much and it'll spill into the connector and it won't go onto the resistor.

63f8626.jpgab4e43c.jpg6.

Now slide the shrink tubing over and shrink it down. Be careful not to set the wire on fire.

a6d3c66.jpg
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