Question about 1997 Pontiac Bonneville

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Battery had bad cell, replaced battery with new 700 cold cranking amps, starter seems locked want or cant turn engine over,bad starter or what? 88000 original miles!

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Check the battery cables for corrosion that may have eaten through the wire. Measure the voltage at the battery posts--should read 12.6 volts--if not, charge the battery overnight with a low rate (4-8 amps) charger. If the battery won't charge, take it back for another unit. If the starter was working before, it should still work if it is getting proper voltage.

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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Have the battery tested and check battery posts for corosion. The buzzing sound is the solonoid trying to connect but there is not enough current to turn the engine. It take a lot more current to turn the engine than it does to run the radio, lights and/or heater fan. It is also possible to get a new battery with a dead or bad cell in it. The battery may not have enough cold cranking amps for your model vehicle. Take it back to where ever you bought the battery. If it is within the warranty period, they should give you a prorated discount on the replacement.

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When should the starter be replaced? When the car is cold, the engine will turn but not start. Battery is new.


Hello,
You may want to try a jump start first. If the vehicle will start with a jump start it is more likely that your new battery doesn't have the MCCA, ( minimum cold cranking amps ), required to start your engine.

When it's cold out the starter needs a lot more amps to turn the engine fast enough to start.

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When it is below frezzing my Isuzu makes a clicking sound instead of starkting but in warm weather it starts all the time ?


more then likely the battery is going bad. in cold weather it takes a good (cca) cold cranking amps, battery to turn engine over. but in warm weather the engine is not as cold and therefore needs less cranking amps. thats why you hear clicking when trying to start car in cold. it is the solinoid clicking and not enough power for starter to turn it over.

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1-The charge on my battery finished, and i replaced to another brain new. Know i can not start the engine, everything work but not the engine . i would like to know what is the possible cause?


This is a very, very common issue.
There are two parts to a car battery,
The first part is common to all vehicles, they are 12 volt batteries. The 12 volts are standard for all of the electrical equipment on the vehicle. ( headlights, stereo, brake lights, etc )

The second part is the amps, also refered to as, " cold craking amps ", it is the amps that start your engine, not the 12 volts.

Two batteries, side by side, identical in every way except one has 500 cold craking amps, and the other has 700 cold cranking amps.

The 550 cranking amps may start a 4 cylinder engine, but it's very unlikely that it's powerful enough to start a 6 cylinder engine, especially if it's cold outside. However, the 700 cranking amps should start a 6 cylinder with out any problems.

You very likely have a battery that doesn't meet the vehicles, " minimum cold cranking amps requirement ."

I am sorry for the long explaination, but, many people are having the same issues, and because this is likely going to be viewed by other users I am hoping that they will start looking more at the " cold cranking amps " rating, before thay buy a battery that isn't powerful enough to start their car, especially in cold weather.

I hope this helps you.

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When ignition switch is turned to start I get a small click but starter does not engage


Hi,

If the starter or solenoid clicks but nothing else happens when you attempt to start the engine, there may not be enough amps to spin the starter. Or the starter may be bad. A poor battery cable, solenoid or ground connection, or high resistance in the solenoid itself may be the problem. A voltage check at the solenoid will reveal if battery voltage is passing through the ignition switch circuit. If the solenoid or relay is receiving battery voltage but is not closing or passing enough amps from the battery to spin the starter motor, the solenoid ground may be bad or the contacts in the solenoid may be worn, pitted or corroded. If the starter cranks when the solenoid is bypassed, a new solenoid is needed, not a starter.
Most engines need a cranking speed of 200 to 300 rpm to start, so if the starter is weak and can't crank the engine fast enough to build compression, the engine won't start. In some instances, a weak starter may crank the engine fast enough but prevent it from starting because it draws all the power from the battery and does not leave enough for the injectors or ignition system.


If the lights dim and there is little or no cranking when you attempt to start the engine, the starter may be locked up, dragging or suffering from high internal resistance, worn brushes, shorts or opens in the windings or armature. A starter current draw test will tell you if the starter is pulling too many amps.


A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 200 amps or more while cranking the engine. The no load amp draw depends on the rating of the starter while the cranking amp draw depends on the displacement and compression of the engine. Always refer to the OEM specs for the exact amp values. Some "high torque" GM starters, for example, may have a no load draw of up to 250 amps. Toyota starters on four-cylinder engines typically draw 130 to 150 amps, and up to 175 amps on six-cylinder engines.


Hope this helps,Good luck!!

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Loud clicking sound when starting, then nothing, but the car will start. Will not start first thing in am, but after some coaxing it will


the starter motor or its engagement solenoid may be faulty. If the carbon brushes are worn inside the starter then it may click and not turn or turn slowly.

It really needs replaced or reconditioned at an auto electrical shop, and make sure the battery can supply its rated current (this can be tested at most tyre depots) as the starter requires some 300 to 400 amps to crank a cold engine, and a poor battery can seem ok during normal running but only supply low current when starting, causing erratic starter motor operation.

Also check the battery terminals, starter terminals, and earth cables are tight and clean.


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