Question about 1991 Mazda 626

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I can't loosen the left front wheel bearing nut on my 1991 Mazda 626. I have tried a lot of extra torquing on the wrench, and have tried heating the nut with a plumbers propane torch, but it won's budge.

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  • 121 Answers

It should be a left-hand thread. Have you tried reversing your wrench direction? This should loosen it.

I trust that you had taken the cotter pin out of the castle nut.

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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Engage the emergency brake. Place the socket end of the tire wrench over the lug nuts and turn 45 degrees to break the nuts loose. Do not unseat the wheel from the wheel hub.
  • 2Jack the Sentra into the air using the factory front jack point. This is located behind the radiator.
  • Finish loosening the lug nuts and remove the wheel.
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    11_30_2011_3_48_02_pm.jpg


    Fig. Exploded view of the wheel bearing adjusting nut and related components-automatic locking hub shown

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    11_30_2011_3_48_28_pm.jpg

    Fig. An oversize socket is needed to properly adjust the wheel bearing-automatic locking hub shown

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    Replacing a front wheel bearing


    here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.

    please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.

    Removal & Installation
    1. Apply the brakes and hold in place.
    2. Raise the vehicle.
    3. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
    4. Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
    5. While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
    6. Release the brakes.
    7. Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
    8. Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
    9. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
    10. Remove the tie rod heat shield.
    11. Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.

      CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
    12. Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.

      NOTE Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
    13. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.

      NOTE Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
    14. Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.

      NOTE The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
    15. If the wheel bearing and hub need removal. Do not reuse the wheel bearing.
      http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/32050/images/32050_ptcr_g0035.gif The separation of the ball joint and the knuckle
    To install:
    1. Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
    2. Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
    3. Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

      CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
    4. Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
    5. Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
    6. Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
    7. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
    8. Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
    9. Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
    10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
    11. Lower the vehicle.
    12. Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.

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    1 Answer

    Wheel bearing


    I've had that problem a few times myself, here's a few things you can do.

    1.) Make sure you have the car in gear, this will keep the wheel assembly from spinning with the nut while you try to loosen it. Be sure the car is jacked up and secured with the e-brake.

    2.) Ensure you have the right size socket for the hub nut, and use a long socket extention(breaker bar, the longer the socket extion the more torque you will get on nut) with a heavy duty socket wrench.

    3.) If it still won't budge go grab a small blow torch and heat up the nut. You can also try penetrating oil to help loosen the nut. Alot of times if the bearings get really bad before being replaced they can sieze up alot of nuts.

    It's a start, good luck and I hope this helps.

    Jun 25, 2008 | 1991 Mazda 626

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