Question about 2008 Honda Accord
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Honda Accord brake light removal
It's a lot of work for just cleaning.
Fold the rear seat down and remove the two 12mm bolts on the bottom corners of the seat back, pull the seat out.
Between the seat bottom and the carpet you will find two tabs you need to pull and then pull the seat bottom up and out of the car.
Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the seat bolsters to the area the seat bottom was covering. Pull the seat bolsters up and out of the car.
Pop the "C" pillar trim off of the car (above the parcel shelf and beside the rear glass) (side airbag vehicles have a slightly different procedure.)
Pull up on the parcel shelf carefully and evenly. Remove clean and put everything back together.
Posted on Dec 25, 2008
First you should think about getting a repair manual. These will have detailed instructions complete with pictures and safety warnings. If you can't spend the $20 on a manual then here is what you need to do.
Just so you know I have done this on my 1994 Accord so there may be specific operations that differ on a 1998. I can give you some good general instructions. Also read through all the instructions before beginning.
Open the hood and take the cover off of the master cylinder reservoir. This will release the hydraulic pressure in the brake system. Remove the covers from both rear wheels and loosen the lug nuts, but do not remove them. Block both front wheels and release the parking brake. Jack the vehicle up one side at time and put the vehicle on jack stands. Remove both rear wheels. When replacing the pads you must do both sides of the car. Complete one side of the car before going to the other. This way you have a reference if you forget how something goes together.
With the wheel off you can now remove the brake caliper. You can remove the caliper shield if you like (it covers the rear portion of the caliper including the area where the parking brake is attached). Remove the caliper by removing the bolts holding it to the mounting bracket. My personal experience has been that these can be very tight. Make sure you are twisting them the correct direction and be careful to not round out the bolt. With the caliper removed you can now remove the brake pads and other hardware.
Remove both the inner and outer pads. If you are going to replace the pad retainers remove them as well. Prepare your new pads for installation. Install new pad retainers first if you removed them. Before putting the new pads on you should apply an anti squeal lubricant. Most auto parts stores will include this with your purchase of brake pads. On my Honda the inside and outside pads are different. The inside pad has a wear indicator on it. This looks like a flat doubled over piece of metal sticking out from the bottom of the pad. When the pad is installed the wear indicator is at the bottom.
Now you have to retract the piston in the caliper. On my Honda the piston is round with a groove in the shape of an X in the middle. Retract the piston by turning it clockwise. If you don't get the piston retracted the caliper won't fit over the new pads. Now replace the caliper. Make sure that the piston is oriented with the tab on the inner pad. The piston should slide over this tab until the tab rests in the center of the X. Secure the caliper by replace the bolts you removed. I found this difficult to do when replacing all the hardware. The new hardware will want to push the caliper out of place and lining up the holes for the bolts has to be exact. It is easiest to do this when the car is on a lift and you can work on the brakes at shoulder height. Now replace the caliper shield then do the other side.
You are now ready to test your work. Put the wheels back on and lower the car. Tighten the lug nuts again after you remove the jack. Put the cover back on the master cylinder reservoir. Pump the brakes several times to restore pressure. Put the parking brake on and start the car. Pump the brakes again and visually inspect the rear brakes for any leaking fluid (just for the off chance that you made a major goof). Also check the level of fluid in the master cylinder reservoir.
You should check your brakes in an isolated area before doing regular driving. I also like to check my job on the lug nuts after my first trip. You would be surprised how many shops and people forget to tighten them properly.
You may also want to check your parking brake. When you have the vehicle up on jack stands with the wheels on you should be able to rotate the wheels without any rubbing on the pads (of course the parking brake has to be off too). If there is any rubbing then your parking brake may be too tight, or you may have a problem with a caliper. Parking brake adjustment can be done easily as can replacement of a caliper. Make sure that your parking brake is not rubbing when released, and that is applying enough pressure when engaged.
Posted on May 24, 2009
in my opinion..if your milage is between 75K-140K I would try and just do a drain and fill and not a full exchange. If it is over 150K DO NOT TOUCH IT!!! See the deal is is that like oil, trans fluid is a fluid that breaks down and becomes bad after a certain amount of time. ANd once you put new fluid in, it breaks away all those containments, and metal particles and could do damage. so it is solely on you if you want to try it out or not. it could fix it, it could make it worst.
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
Testimonial: "this is kinda what i was thinking when told the info. Might just let it be and drive it till its undriveable..it has 164K thanx! "
no, 12mm wrench or ratchet on 12mm socket. the piston is tough to push back in. its a twist in type and you will need some force to push and twist the piston back in. - note rear brake pads wearing out on the new 08-09 accords are very common and if under 16-18 thousand miles it may be covered. honda knows about this problem
Posted on Oct 27, 2009
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