Question about 2005 Cadillac Escalade Esv

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My front differential went out, had it replaced/repaired, went out again. guy replaced/ repaired for free 2nd time, went out third time ( all in 6-8 months time). makes rubbing sound (like bearings shot) in front when slowing down. any ideas?

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The back lash is not set right

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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I have a "clunk" when the transmissions shifts gears. Other than that the car runs great. I just bought it and it also has a little "drag" when in reverse.

First start the engine and leave it in park and then check the level of transmission fluid on the dip stick (on the left at the very back of the engine). Second check the integrity of the bolts holding the differential to the rear subframe. There are only three, two to the rear of the diff. in rubber mounted bushes and one on the left front vertically into a rubber cushioned washer mounting. Third check the rubber flexible (dounut) assemblies immediately to the rear of the transmission output and in front of the differential input. The 6 bolts on each should be secure and there should be no cracks in the couplings. If they show signs of deterioration they are easy to replace.

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A c/v joint is pretty much just a better universal joint in that it permits more flex range than a simple cross. (like a driveshaft universal) If it were possible to make a universal with eight caps instead of four, it would have similar range but would be impossible to install.
Few suv's used in street applications have a true locking front differential as that makes steering very difficult on turns (outer wheel needs to turn faster than one on inside of turn as the outside "circle" is larger.) Most suv's have an "open" differential that permits easy turning. In reality most 4x4's only have two wheels driving the vehicle at any one time. Most optional setups have a positraction diff ( also known as a limited slip as it allows for slippage so wheels can change speed on turns)at the rear giving you a total of three wheels pushing. Off-road guys will often install a posi at the front, or a more radical approach is a "spool" that is 100% locked all the time, making street driving nearly impossible. Your front differential is "locked" or actually connected to the drivetrain by way of a transfer case that does exactly that...It transfers power to the differentials. On some it does this automatically by way of a viscous coupler inside the unit, or others that are engaged by the driver by either an electric servo or a direct lever.
How far you turn the front wheels determines how much stress you are putting on the c/v joint. Most vehicles have a "stop" bolt somewhere on the suspension that stops the front end from turning further than it should. Most times the steering pump will begin to whine as you near the limit.
C/v joints should last a very long time. Generally they fail because though they are internally designed very well, they are protected by a simple rubber boot. Once that boot is torn, split or otherwise compromised, road dirt enters and quickly destroys the joint.
Once you find a split boot you can almost bet that the joint is in one stage or another of failure. The price of the boot is often about one third the price of a complete joint or even a replacement axle with joints installed. therefore changing just the boot is foolish.
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