Question about Jeep CJ

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Just installed a Solex #92808 on my 1952 Willys Jeep truck and it will run at a fast idle but not well and will not run at idle speeds. The needle valve adjusting screw does not make any difference. Could it be that my compression is to low?

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Likely you have a vacuum leak somewhere. check by spraying water or carb cleaner on the intake to head parting line and anywhere else there could be a leak. When you hit the leak, the motor will change idle or stumble.

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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Tickover 1500 rpm when warm


idles too fast.
what engine?
what year?

on a gas engine, the idle speed is 100% controlled by PCM at all times. hot.
so its out of control that means the PCM closes the ISC valve.
and RPM will not drop. (its stuck open) or vacuum air leaks
jeeps use speed density EFI system using the MAP sensor.
this means all air leaks on jeeps , cause wild fast idle speeds.
that is all you need to know , to find problem (find leaks)

clean the ISC yet (idle speed control) valve.?

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How do I adjust fast idle link assembly on weber 34DGEC


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/weber-34-dgec-carb-too-rich-jets-tune-jeep-4-2-258-a-631105/

read
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f218/34-dgec-weber-problems-126887.html
really its a.
Solex 34 TEIE import that gets a Weber name
that is why tuning data, is missing at webers. site.

what makes you think it was ever tune right.
was it?

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?531786-Weber-34DGEC-CARB-Conversion-Probs

1: is fuel pressure.
2: is float level checks.
3: is jetting,
4: is no intake leaks, or it will never idle right or stalls. or races.
if its rich (wrong jets) it will race with air leaks
if it lean (wrong jets) it will stall with air leaks.

5: the choke is off for all above. tuning the silly chock is last.
on my cars, i run a manual choke, so ends that.

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Engine Data: 4-134 F Head Motor (All Years)
Engine Type: 134 CID (2.2L) F4-134 Hurricane 14
Number of Cylinders: 4
Cubic-In. Displacement: 134.2 cu. in. (2199,53 cm 3)
Horsepower: 72@4000 rpm
Torque: 114 lb-ft. (15,7 kg-m.)
Compression Ratio: 6.9 to 1
Valvetrain: F-Head

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Before you start check the status of your choke. One that is stuck on will cause a high idle. If the choke checks out, proceed to the following:


You should have what's called a 2 needle carburetor. A larger screw adjustment for idle, and a smaller for high speed.

Start by adjusting your low speed (idle) needle until you reach the desired idle. I prefer about 850rpms. Do this with the engine running and adequately warmed so that your adjustments are not thrown off by the automatic choke.

Next slowly open up the high speed needle. As you open it your idle speed will gradually increase. Adust it in 1/8 turn increments, pausing after each adjustment to allow the changes to take affect. Keep opening it until you stop increasing your rpms, then take it back 1/8 of a turn.

Next readjust your idle mixture screw so that your idle is back down to 850rpms.

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1 Answer

Excessive idle speed


The problem may also be the automatic choke. It could be stuck in fast idle. check all choke settings and linkages clean if nessesary. There is a separate fast idle adjustment screw on the choke linkage that controls engine speed while the engine is warming up. The tip of the screw rests against a cam that slowly rotates as the choke opens during engine warm up. Turn this screw counterclockwise to decrease the fast idle speed.

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4 wheel drive hardware @ 4wd.com

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