Question about 2000 Honda CR-V
Is this front wheel? rear wheel? or 4 wheel drive? if you have front wheel drive or 4 wheel drive you will need to take the tire off and get the center cap off with cotter pin on most vehicles. then put the tire back on without its center cap. then put the vehicle back on the ground. then use required socket with an extention and breaker bar to put through the rim to loosen center hub bolt about a quarter turn. just enough to break it loose. then take the tire back off to finish the job. remove the brake caliper and rotor then center nut on hub bearing. there should be 3 bolts from the inside holding hub bearing on. on rear wheel only you won't need to take the tire off and on.
Posted on Oct 08, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Front Wheel bearing removal
If it is a hub assembly you dont remove the bearing, its replaced as one piece. If the parts store sold you just the bearing you WILL NEED a press. There is no trick, you will only ruine the hub and bearing.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
You need air tools, many differnet size sockets and a press. The strut/spindle and lower control arm have to come out all together. leaving the axle in the car.The spinlde cannot be removed from the strut. once removed, you can then unbolt the lower control arm ball joint nut, and seperate the lower control from the spindle - for ease for the press. press the hub out, remove the snap rings on either side and press the old bearing out. press in new bearing , install snap rings, press the hub in and reinstall. I just did one today... I have 15 years experience as a ford tech - Ugh bro.. - Josh
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
Remove the wheel, remove the hub nut, remove the brake caliper and rotor, put your socket and extension through the hub flange onto the bearing retainer bolts, undo them, release the abs sensor connector if it has it, remove the bearing and hub flange as an assembly, put the new one on and go backwards from here. Torque the hub nut to 180 ft/lbs, your done.
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
Jack up the wheel ,take off the allen screws (no oil) then see a locking ring with 3 cross head screws which will be very tight. take them out turn the adjusting ring cockwise and spin the wheel till the play is gone then get the next set of holes in line so there is a tiny bit of load on the bearings and bolt it back up - job done .
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
Take off the wheel, then the brake caliper, noow you have the roter. in the center is a cap, the center cap, this comes off by pruing it off with a screwdriver. Inside that a retaning pin, take that out, then a nut cover, and nut with grooves in it from where you took out the pin. It is good to mark about where it was so when you put it together, you will not overtighten it.
Take that nut off, then you should be able to take off the whole assembly, bearings and all. If this is a sealed unit, you have to but a roter that will have the guts already inside it. make sure you clean off all of the old grease, you are going to replace critical parts, so you need new grease for them. Also make sure your spildle is not grooved, if so haw bad, you might replace it to if all gualled up.
on a sealed unit you just reverse the steps from taking it off.
if not you have to knock out the old races in the caliper, the one side by a wide screwdriver and hammer, there are pullers, but from the way it sounds, it is in there tight. Just be carefull not to kill the sides and rotate it around when doing this. once it is out, do the other side, find a socket that size, one thak will fit in the race almost to the edges and beat it out. now make sure the caliper is in a flat surface, and use a blanket or something toi avoid knicking the thing.
once both are out, just reverse the process, grease the inside just a bit and when you put the race in use a socket that is the size of the race, and beat it in evenly.grease your bearings, make sure you do one side at a time, and putting them back on the spindle is a cake walk compared to what you just have done.
hope this helps
Posted on May 26, 2009
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