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My rear heater in my 2003 yukon will not blow hot air when heater is engaged, it only blows cold air as if the a/c is on

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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vmhreha
  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: air condition/heater

sounds like the air-conditioning expansion valve is probably not working correctly here is a way you can fix your air conditioning:

  1. Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.
  1. Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:

  2. the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system
  • the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat
  • the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car
  • the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
  • the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
  • the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants
  1. Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again.
  2. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem.
  3. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system).
  4. Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor.
  5. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.

Posted on Jun 05, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Yukon A/C, rear blows cold, front ducts a LOT warmer.

There is only one A/C system split into 2 zones. Check the blend door actuator, it may have failed in one position or something may be jamming it. Also check the control panel in the dash, My 98 yukon did the same thing, no matter what temp you selected for the front it would blow at about 70 degrees. There is a circuit board in the control panel that gets corroded and one of the circuits controls blend door operations. Have a look.

Posted on Jun 12, 2008

  • 2920 Answers

SOURCE: 2002 GMC Yukon blows cold air from the front, rear works fine

check you antifreeze level and make sure its full

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

  • 217 Answers

SOURCE: '98 S-10 heater blowing cold air - not hot air

will the air flow switch from floor to the mid to defrost? if so then we have a problem with the tempature door actuator. easy to replace just in tight place. Keep me posted for more help or if this was any help thanks

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS blows cold air in heat mode.

So I am the original owner of 2000 Eclipse and have taken it back to the dealer for the 1st 5 years and they would replace a hose and tell me that there was a leak and the coolant was low. Oddly enough I never witnessed leak or saw any a/f on the drive. Plus the overflow is still at full. I fed up with the dealer(warranty ran out) so I must do this on my own or suffer the arctic Cleveland commutes to work. My driveway slopes down and typically the car is parked nose down the drive. By luck I parked it bassackward or Nose Up. and had heat when the card idled in the drive. The Heater hoses are at the highest part of the cooling system and any deficiency in the coolant level replaces hot water with cold air in the heater core. I still can't tell you where my coolant goes each and every year nor do I understand why it won't **** it out of my overflow bottle when low. I just top off radiator frequently and alls well.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

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Why does the air conditioning in my 2003 GMC Yukon blow cold in the front but HOT in the back like the heat is on. It blows good just hot air. I have read that it could be the heater valve not closing...Is...


To check the rear expansion valve, see if the a/c lines are different temperatures. One line to the rear evaporator should be hot and the other cold if it is working.
Try to recailbrate the blend door actuator. Remove the HVAC module fuse. Wait at least 15 seconds. Replace it, turn the key on and wait 40 seconds

May 13, 2014 | 2001 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

Front a/c blows cold air but back is blowing hot air


Could be low on freon, a faulty expansion valve on the rear system, or other issues. Can you tell if the rear ac lines are hot and cold ?

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I'm going to assume that is on both sides of the cab? I'm going to say you have an actuator problem, if it's in fact only blowing cold in the rear, and not in the front. The actuators are prone to problems on the gm product lines. Even more with a weak battery.

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