Question about 1991 Dodge Stealth

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Engine turns but wont start ,timing belt was repl. two days before. no spark to plugs every thing looks good back to the hv transformer.my son think is the computer.

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  • Just Gort
    Just Gort May 11, 2010

    WAS IT WORKING JUST BEFORE THE TIMING BELT WAS CHANGED, OR IS THAT THE REASON THAT THE TIMING BELT WAS CHANGED? Sounds like the ECM or the electronic ignition module.

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  • Master
  • 523 Answers

Given the history of this product (early 1990 Mitsubishi products) I expect it is the engine ECU, located behind the radio. You'll need to remove the two pieces of carpet trim/panel off of the tunnel, pop off the plastic caps (one on each side) and remove the phillips head screw. The trim now loose will in-hook from a point near the fire-wall and then back by the shifter. Looking behind the dash in the middle the ECU will sit vertically and the (3) yellow electrical plugs within it, unplug these and remove the three bolts/screws holding it in place (if my memeory serves they are No. 10 metric) Note the MD number on the ECU this is important as you must keep this common with the replacement. The death of these ECUs are the (3) capaciors within them. If you like you can open up the ECU and look for these; under them you might notice a thick grease like substance, this is the failure of a leaking capacitor. It is possible for you to replace these capacitors (must be done with care) If you purchase a rebuilt unit the new capacitors are of better quality and less prone to leaking.
The attached link should help!

http://www.wrenchmonkey.com/Webpages/ECUrepair.html

I hope this may have helped,
Tom

Posted on Oct 21, 2009

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  • Master
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Check the cam and crank sensor(s)

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

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redux 2
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crude video, but is for folks with near zero tools
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

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Got fuel? Sounds crazy but you'd be surprised how many times I have poured a gallon of gasoline into someones car to get it to start.

No start condition is the most frustrating problem. More information on what happens when you turn the key would help......but basicaly you need 4 things to make a car start. Fuel. Air. Spark. Timing. Fuel, Air, Spark and Timing are needed to start/run. Asked about fuel, but is the fuel getting to the cylinder? Do you have fuel pressure at the fuel rail(s)? When you turn the key to the "On" or "Run" position, do you hear a whining sound coming from the rear (fuel tank area)? That is your fuel pump priming the system. No sound? Check fuses and relays associated with the fuel system. Air. You need air to the cylinder to make it start and run. Check your air intake and filter. Really clogged and dirty filter? Pull it out and try to start. No go? Put it back (change ASAP) and look for Spark. Spark includes battery. Are there any loose connections to/from your battery? Really corroded terminals? Clean and tighten the connections. Try to start. No go? Pull the spark plug wire off an easily accessible spark plug (grasp the "boot" as close to the plug as possible and wiggle back and forth easily while pulling - these boots and wire connectors are fairly delicate). Remove the spark plug (be careful and dont break it or cross thread it when putting back in) and pop the wire back on it and set the plug on top of your engine (away from the spark plug hole). Have someone try to start the engine. You should see the spark plug fire its tiny bright blue spark. If not, you have found your problem. The problem is likely a bad coil, bad coil wire, distributor cap, rotor or a combination of these. If you have spark, then it has come down to timing. There are lots of things that affect timing in modern cars. There are a couple of sensors that jump out - Crankshaft and Camshaft position sensors. These will generally quit working while driving and you will likely notice the problem beforehand with it running really rough and getting crappy mileage, and the check engine light will come on and give you all kinds of hints. IF you turn the key and nothing happens, it might be a broken timing belt, but again, those usually fail under working conditions. It is possible (rare) the timing belt slipped/broke when you last shut off the engine, but I would point at the other 3 things first (Fuel, Air & Spark). Hope this helps. Good luck.

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and engine needs fuel, spark and air to run. If you are sure you have fuel and spark, the timing is the last thing to check. Your engine is provided with external alignment marks. take out all of your plugs, and by hand, turn your engine over until you see your harmonic balancer (pulley your belt is on at the bottom of the engine/crank) alignment marks meet with the marks on the engine block. Next you need to look at your cam gears. You might have to pull a plastic cover, or the valve cover off to see the cam gears. The cam gears have alignment marks as well. If all marks line up together at the same time, timing is not the issue. the timing belt is an iffy design. The timing belt tensioner could be warn out and only show signs or being warn out every now and then. your tensioner could have loosened up, caused your belt to jump, and clamp back again.

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My car just died and wont start at all every thing looks ok i turn the key nothing try to pull start but it wont i look at the timeing belt it looks good now what ?????


If the timing belt has over 100,000 miles on it revisit the timing belt possibilty. even though it can look ok it can have stripped one or two teeth. next listen for the fuel pump in the tank to run for about 5 seconds after you turn on the key. if it's not you likely need a new one. Next check for spark at the spark plug. you can do this buy removing the wire from the plug & inserting another one into the wire then hold the threaded part against a metal part of the engine & have a friend turn over the engine. if you see spark your good. if there is no spark you could have a number of issues & you will need to follow that up. All this is asuming the engine is turning over. if not your starter may be at fault.
Good luck let me know

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Check for spark by removing one of the spark plugs from the engine. Reinstall the spark plug wire on the plug and rest it against something metal on the engine. Have an assistant crank the engine. Watch the bottom of the spark plug for spark. If you see a spark, you need to look for a fuel problem or the timing belt. If you do not see a spark, check for a blown ENGINE or IGNITION fuse in the fuse block.

When you sit in the driver's seat, turn the ignition switch to the ON position and listen for a humming sound. That is the fuel pump. If you hear it, you know it is good. If not, check for a blown FUEL pump fuse.

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Possible burnt rotor, take off the distributor cap and remove the rotor. Flip it over and look for a black dot ,this is where the spark is going into the ground instead of out the spark plug wires.Rotor looks good?Check for spark,pull of a spark plug wire and insert a screwdriver in the end of the wire. Holding it only by the handle, hold the screwdriver a half inch away from the engine and have someone turn the motor over.(Don't touch anything metal or you'll find out what 30,000 volts feels like!)You should see a bright blue spark the full distance between the driver and the engine.If the spark is yellow or will barely jump the gap replace the coil.It's back firing so you have fuel,lastly and definitely the worst case scenario,you've lost the timing chain-belt.Good luck!

Nov 10, 2009 | 1986 Mercedes-Benz 190

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