Question about 1996 Dodge Dakota

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My blower fan quit working and upon taking it out and testing the fan works fine. Someone recommended I check the blower resistor but I am unsure whare to locate it or what it looks like. I don't seem to find a picture or diagram in my car repair book. Can you help?

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  • housemvr Oct 07, 2009

    Thanks for your explanation.

  • housemvr Oct 07, 2009

    Yes

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Yes, its in 1of 2 places. Usually most common is mounted on the blower housing with wires to it from a plug or mounted directly to the heater controls as the actual low/med/high switch.. It is usually about 2x2inches, very small but a pain if it goes out. It controls the blower speeds. Also a cheaper check is the blower relay fuse under the hood in your fuse panel could be the cause too so I would start with that one as its maybe $5-$10 as opposed to the blower resistor from $20-$70... It could be one or both but betting about 90% it s the resistor as its the most common for blower failure when the actual blower motor is still working when 12v is applied to it...

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

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1 Answer

How to trouble shoot front blower


There are several reasons for a blower to stop working. Does it work on ANY speed? Does the AC compressor lamp or any of the vent control LEDs still work when using the AC controls? Do ANY of the speed for the blower work or are they all dead?

1st, you wanna check your fuses. There will be fuses in the underhood fusebox marked blower or heater fan, check and repalce as necessary. Also, if the earlier check for working LED bulbs on the AC control panel showed some or all lights dont ever turn on when engine is running, you may have problems with the control system.
if the fuses are good, now you need to test parts. there is a blower motor speed control aka blower resistor that frequently fails on most cars. It is the part that carries the current for all speeds of the blower and regulates speed when commanded. It has to absorb the excess energy to lower speeds and it tends to get very hot and burn out as a result. If it has failed, there will be power IN on one of its wires, and no power OUT on any others. If you have no multimeter or testlight to check things like this, Id recommend taking it to a certified mechanic.
If the control lamps all work that means controls have power, if the blower resistor has no power, fuses or blower relay are the most likely cause. if the blower resistor has power but still no fan, most likely your fan has failed. as a general rule, I replace fans and blower resistors as pairs. fans tend to last longer, but they also get more demanding with age (kinda like people) and that extra demand will burn out the newer resistor much faster than when the fan was newer. it can be alot of time and money to change a blower TWICE, so to be sure it wont fail again, test current, or simply replace the blower fan if it is determined a resistor has failed. (a good fan in theory shouldnt draw enough amperage to burn out a good resistor, EVER, so if the resistor burns, the fan is typically drawing too much power, and even though it works "fine", it will burn the next resistor in a short time as well.).

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If yours is dual zone, I believe the resistor (blower control module) is a solid state. Did you check it using the fan speed selector and test the voltage output on the purple wire?
The gray black wire going into the resistor is a variable voltage output from the heater control panel. This signal is amplified by the resistor/blower control module.
The black wire out of the resistor also needs proper good ground.
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When blower motors go bad they will often absorb a lot of electrical current. This current has to go through the blower control/resistor and will often burn them out due to the heat developed from the high current load.
These resistors are also mounted in the airflow out of the fan motor to help cool them so if the fan is still drawing current and not blowing the resistor overloads and burns it out.
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