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Where should I start for removing the clutch from my vehicle? I need to replace the slave cylinder, I understand it is within the clutch system. Just need some instruction to get started with the disasembly.

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The first thing you should do is disconnect the vehicle battery negative cable,
drain the transmission
remove the starter morot
remove the differential
loosen the clutch cable (special tool required)
loosen bell housing bolts, crossmenber bolts
remove tranny
change the slave,
good time to change clutch pressure plate and have the flywheel reground.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

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Wont go into gear while driving has to be turned off then it will has new clutch


It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging when depressed. What is the year make and model? It most likely has a hydraulic clutch. Many vehicles have the clutch slave cylinder inside the bell housing of the transmission. This means that the fluid line to the slave cylinder was removed to remove the transmission. If a new slave cylinder was installed when the clutch was replaced (this is a good idea to do when servicing a clutch with a bell housing internal slave cylinder) then the system will need to be bled to remove air from the system and allow the clutch disengagement to function properly.

Mar 07, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2004 ford focus 2.0liter. clutch pedaL GOES TO FLOOR. brake master full of fluid.I clutch master or clutch slave cylinder bad?


a plastic master cyl !

master cyl is bypassing internally

slave cylinder is inside the gearbox bell housing
if its leaking .....gearbox out




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Nov 11, 2016 | 2004 Ford Focus

3 Answers

Clutch pedal goes to floor, no resistance


low on fluid possibly but need make model etc for better understanding .

Mar 18, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

What to fix when my clutch pedal losses pressure then it started taping where the clutch is in the transmission I discovered that clutch line and cylinder had dirt stopping it up what should I do to find...


By what I can figure by what you are saying. First are you low on clutch hydraulic fluid if so you must look for a leak. If your not losing fluid then your master clutch cylinder is bad and must be replaced.

Mar 07, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clutch pedal sticks coming back up when released quickly


You need to inspect the feed line if the return line is squezed or kinked in any place it will impede return and the cylinder will seem stuck. If the lines are servicable remove the cylinder and bench test and bleed. it might be a burr left in the cylinder. Also check travel of the pedal without the system in place. Finally When I replace one of these units I have to bleed it out of the vehicle with another person holding the slave cylinder because there is no bleed screw on the slave cylinder. If you removed the little brass screw you broke it. I find there is no way to get out all the air unless the slave cylinder is held verticle with consant pressure applied to the throw arm. Then when bled reinsert into vehicle.

Jun 04, 2014 | 1990 Ford F150

1 Answer

Pt cruiser clutch diagram


I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

May 20, 2017 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

2 Answers

I have a 1997 saturn sc2 im trying to bleed the clutch slave cylinder


In this car, there is no bleed port provided. The hydraulic clutch system is closed and is sold only as a complete set of master, reservoir, slave, and line. The set is priced at $130 at autozone.com. I have pasted the replacement instructions from autozone.com below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.
  1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.
  2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.
  4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.
  5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.
  6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.
  7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.
  8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.
  9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.
  10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.
  1. If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.
  4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.
  5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.
  7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.
  8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.
  9. Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.
  11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.
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Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


999d0d2.gif Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing

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Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork
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Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel


HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

Oct 31, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

2 Answers

Where can I find the hydrolic clucth resivoir and why would it be empty. Daughters car she is in Illinois and me Florida. Not much help from here but can let her know where to look for sure?


There should be a small cup size reservoir on the fender strut tower. Looks like thing in upper right corner of below picture. What usually happens to hydraulic clutches when they draw air, it the slave cylinder on the side of the transmission leaks and must be replaced. The system can then be bled of air and proper clutch operation restored. It would be difficult to restore clutch operation just by refilling the reservoir, especially with such a small reservoir. If it is necessary to get the car moving to get it repaired (slave cylinder replacement is a big job on this car, as the transmission must be removed), one could bleed the system with the bad slave cylinder and then drive a short distance. The clutch will likely fail again after about 100 or so cycles of the pedal. I will paste the bleed instructions below. These require someone to get under the car to open the slave bleeder. If you have more questions, please let me know.

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Bleeding The Hydraulic System

Note: brake fluid is corrosive--please wipe any spilled fluid from painted or metal surfaces.
Manual Bleeding

  1. Fill the clutch reservoir with brake fluid. Check the reservoir level frequently and add fluid as needed.
  2. Connect one end of a vinyl tube to the bleeder plug on the slave cylinder and submerge the other end into a clear container half-filled with clean brake fluid.
  3. Slowly pump the clutch pedal 10-15 times without bring the pedal the full way up.
  4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until all of the air bubbles are removed from the system.
  5. Tighten the bleeder screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm).
  6. Refill the master cylinder to the proper level.

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder:


Removal & Installation Before servicing any vehicle, please be sure to read the precautions section, which deals with personal safety, prevention of component damage, and important points to take into consideration when servicing a motor vehicle.

  1. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder line from the transaxle by removing the C-clip.
  2. Remove the transaxle.
  3. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder bolts from the transaxle.
  4. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder.

To install:


NOTE Excessive amounts of lubricant on the input shaft splines can contaminate the clutch disc and cause clutch shudder.

  1. Lightly lubricate the inside diameter of the bearing with input shaft lubricant P/N 21005995 or equivalent.
  2. Install the clutch actuator cylinder (1) to the transaxle.
  3. Install the clutch actuator cylinder bolts.
  4. Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  5. Install the transaxle.
  6. Connect the clutch master cylinder line to the transaxle by pushing it in until it seats.
  7. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

Before servicing any vehicle, please be sure to read the precautions section, which deals with personal safety, prevention of component damage, and important points to take into consideration when servicing a motor vehicle.
  1. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder line from the transaxle by removing the C-clip.
  2. Remove the transaxle.
  3. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder bolts from the transaxle.
  4. Remove the clutch actuator cylinder.

To install:


NOTE Excessive amounts of lubricant on the input shaft splines can contaminate the clutch disc and cause clutch shudder.

  1. Lightly lubricate the inside diameter of the bearing with input shaft lubricant P/N 21005995 or equivalent.
  2. Install the clutch actuator cylinder (1) to the transaxle.
  3. Install the clutch actuator cylinder bolts.
  4. Tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  5. Install the transaxle.
  6. Connect the clutch master cylinder line to the transaxle by pushing it in until it seats.
  7. Bleed the clutch hydraulic system.

Oct 30, 2010 | 2003 Saturn VUE

3 Answers

2001 Ford ranger edge. The gears won't change.


The trans will need to come out. While your at it, just replace the clutch assembly, rear main oil seal, resurface the flywheel, and the clutch master cyl. Its not really a job you should do, find a repair shop to handle it.

Nov 06, 2009 | Ford Edge Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

PEUGEOT 406 LX DT 1998 2088 CC CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER


I understand these cars have a sealed clutch system. When they fail you replace the whole kit master,hydrolic pipe and slave (comes in one piece). Search on ebay maybe £45 or so.

Jul 21, 2008 | 2005 Peugeot 405

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