Question about 1982 Ford F 250

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1977 Ford F250 400m electrical problems

I rebuilt the motor this summer and have had some issues. Replaced the ignition module, ignition coil, voltage regulator, and had the alternator tested, alternator was fine. Also replaced battery. The truck ran better than before as it would sputter all the time. After replacing parts it runs fine until i try and use any acessories, such as headlights heater fan and turn signals. When I turn any of those on it seems like the motor is having alot of power taken from it, sputtering. Was wondering if there might be a common ground that is forgotten on a rebuild

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It doesn't sound like a ground, but there does exist an engine to body ground strap the gets forgotten quite often. It is located at the rear of the engiine going from an intake manifold bolt tothe firewall. Check the charging voltage of the alternator at the battery posts. The charging rate should be between 13.6 to 14.2v. Remember this, The higher the voltage the lower the amps In turn the lower the voltage the higher the amps. If the alternator is charging at 14v, it should drop towards 13,even as low as 12v, depending on the battery and accessory loads.At 12v, the alt is pouring out some serious amps and running hard. This is not good for the alternator. That's the reason for 13.6 being nominal. If the alt puts out 15v, this is also harmful. Although you aren't getting the amps, the high voltage will burn up things designed to run on 12v, Like lights and radios, relays and such. I hope all this makes sense to you and is of help. Check the eng to firewall grd, Ck your charging voltage and give your battery ground a second once over at both of the cable ends, loosening the bolt on the engine end and making sure its clean. Checking the + connection wouldn't hurt. Good Luck, Ned. Let me know, k?

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

Testimonial: "Hey thank you for the help. It was the ground from the intake to firewall. Truck runs like a champ."

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There should be a ground strap from the engine block to the trucks frame, if there isn't one you must install one. The coil can make as much voltage as it wants, but if it cant find its way to ground after is goes through the plugs then the plugs are not going to fire well.

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

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1 Answer

Well i have replaced spark plugs,spark plug wires and rebuilt the carburetor, also replaced the fuel pump but it turns over it is getting fuel but it just don't want to start and keep running it will try...


sure the 77 models have the earyest kind of electronic ightion and it needs to be checked to see if it's working. The distruber pickup fails, the timing chain fails and the distubutor does'nt turn as the engine turns, the coil does'nt get power from the key as a connection broke or the ingine ballast resitior failed. the igtion module fails too.159097116.jpg893555968.jpg78413573.jpg337676466.jpgThis module over the life of Ford motor company has cause the physdo-yne Found On the Road Dead Antother words lots of Fords quit and the days of youre mechanics would say that blue gromet module has left another car on the side of the road.

Apr 16, 2011 | 1977 Mercury Grand Marquis

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Jul 06, 2010 | 1984 Ford Mustang

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I have a 91 f250 with 7.5 liter and no spark. where may the problem be?


Use a test light and check to see if there is battery voltage present at the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position if no battery voltage is present at the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position then there is a power supply or wiring problem to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then with the test light on the "Neg" (-) or negative side of the ignition coil crank the engine over. The test light should flash or pulse indicating that there is a dwell signal to the ignition coil, and if there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil and there is a dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, and there is still no spark from the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If there is battery voltage to the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, and there is no dwell signal to the "Neg" side of the ignition coil, then the Ignition module, or the pick-up coil/stator would be the most likely cause of the problem.

Check to see if that ignition system actually used an ignition module on the side of the distributor, and if the distributor does have an ignition module mounted on the side of it, then it is most likely faulty and those modules were prone to failure from excessive engine heat. Also, remove the distributor cap and inspect the connector from the pick-up coil/stator where the ignition module connects to it, and if the connector is dark or burnt looking then also replace the pick-up coil/stator or the entire distributor. You might need a Ford ignition module wrench to remove the ignition module from the side of the distributor and most auto part stores will have one for only a few dollars.

Here are some images to assist you and notice the white connector on the ignition pick-up coil/stator and when that connector turns dark or burnt looking then it is faulty.


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Jun 19, 2010 | 1991 Ford F250

1 Answer

Ford 460 - no spark


get another ignition module sometimes they come broken and if it keeps happening there might be an electrical draw somewere

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